Month: November 2019

How to Diagnose and Remedy Basement Flooding Problems

It’s Safe to Say Basement Flooding is a Big Deal in Plumbing

If you’re a victim of flooded basement, we’ve got the help you need. If your basement is flooding you’re probably asking yourself a bunch of questions. How do I fix basement flooding? How do I repair my basement so it doesn’t flood? Why do I have wet basement walls? What can I do to water proof my basement walls? What shoes do I wear when I’m trying to fix the water damage? Why does my basement flood, I’m on a lot that’s higher than my neighbor’s? These questions and many more will be answered in this article.

Basement Flooding

We Haven’t done a Good Job Explaining the Details

It’s surprising how little people what causes basement flooding. What’s even more surprising is the fact that no one seems to explain it correctly or in a way that is easily understood by the homeowner.

Let’s first start by saying that your foundation is akin to a big concrete boat. When the ground is fairly dry your foundation sits comfortably in its resting place. However, when the ground is saturated, your foundation is actually being forced out of the ground. If it didn’t weigh many tons it would pop right out of the ground. The weight keeps it from coming out of the ground, preventing further damage.

Hopefully, that gives you an idea of how water affects a foundation hydraulically, in fact, it is aptly named hydraulic pressure or hydrostatic pressure. When water is present in a basement or crawlspace both the home and business owner immediately panic. What are the causes of this? What’s the best way to fix it? This is completely understandable especially when most people keep valuables, records or collectables in their basement and if you’ve spent your hard-earned dollars on finishing your basement, forget it, you call a plumber for help.

rsrik

If you’ve had flooding issues in the past the alarm bell automatically goes off in your head when it starts to rain. You’re thinking “what’s gonna get damaged?” “how am I gonna clean this up?” “how can I keep the mold out of the basement?”. The pictures above might scare you, but trust me this is pretty common. Cleaning isn’t the only thing though, you are probably concerned about what actually broke or caused the flood. In this case, you usually stop and consider your options. Who can help? What should I do next? You’re probably concerned about the cost of the damage too since homeowners insurance doesn’t cover all flood damages.

Any flooded basement insurance claim for water getting into the basement from outside is best taken care of by a Public Adjuster, since a lot of the times an insurance company will deny the claim. As a side note, if your basement is flooding because water is entering from outside, you should reconsider your landscaping to prevent basement flooding. The land around the basement area can act as a protector of floods. Cities like Toronto will subsidize your basement flood-proofing. So there are options depending on the location you’re in. Now let’s jump into the basics of basement flooding.

(Here’s a quick flood fun fact: The Great Flood of 1937 drastically affected the Cincinnati and Louisville areas. It left behind 14.88 inches of water in Fernbank, which is west of Cincinnati. And it left an even bigger flood in Louisville with 19.17 inches. Now that would be a disaster flood to clean up. This meme represents how I would feel about it.)

Basement Flooding Basics

If you know some basics regarding what is going on outside the foundation walls, under your foundation floor and you know some basics about your sewer you can intelligently explain to a plumbing professional what seems to be your problem or you could very well attempt to fix the problem yourself.

Let’s explain some of the characteristics of water with reference to your foundation. First water is not very susceptible to being compressed. Which means it’s going to find its way to every nook and cranny whether it be in air pocket in the ground or a crack in your basement floor or foundation walls. Water also finds its own level, meaning it could be leaking at the bottom of your foundation but find a seam in your wall and wick up 8 ft to the top of your foundation making it pretty difficult to put your finger on the problem.

So now that we know that water pressure is the root of almost all flooding and moisture problems let’s look and the different scenarios that occur to cause flooding. If a homeowner called and said “my basement is flooding” the first question should be is “is the water coming from the foundation or a floor drain?” The water is generally coming from one of those locations; a flood isn’t going to occur if you leave a window open. If it is coming from a basement floor drain the next question to be asked is “do you have an ejector pit and pump in your basement?” If the homeowner says no it tells you several things. Number one they have a gravity sewer.

Actually all sewers are gravity however this particular one is unique in the fact that all waste water, even water collected in the basement, flows under the basement floor and out to the city sewer. If water is coming up from their floor drain and they don’t have an obstruction in their sewer then the city main is backing up.

When sewers were first installed in metropolitan areas around the country they were combined sewers in that they took away both rainwater and wastewater. This comes as a surprise to some because storm and wastewater are always separated in buildings but yes in quite a few municipalities they combine together in the sewer main. Quite a few cities in the US, like Chicago or Atlanta, still use combined sewers however they are slowly being phased out. Having a combined sewer lends itself to some unique problems especially to a homeowner that is connected to it.

Basement Floods During Heavy Rain

So we bring ourselves back to flooding occurring in a home in the basement through a floor drain with no sewer obstruction. Think of a sewer in the middle of the street taking sewage from each home or business connected to it and then add to it torrential rains in the spring and fall. These combined sewers were never designed to evacuate that volume of water, in fact, typically during rainy seasons a combined sewer runs at 100% capacity. The technical term for this phenomenon is “surcharged”

When there is nowhere else for the water to go it finds its way back to each home or business connected to it and floods the homes/businesses, backing up through the floor drain and if there is enough flooding it will find its way to any crack in a foundation or wall. There are several fixes for basement floods during heavy rain, two band aids and three real solutions.

Floor Drain Plug or Econo Plug. This is just what it sounds like; it’s a plug that fits inside the floor opening for prevention. This type of plug usually consists of a neoprene rubber gasket sandwiched together by two plastic or metal plates; they are connected by a threaded screw topped off by a wing nut, as you tighten the wing nut the two plates squeeze the rubber gasket out thereby sealing your floor opening. What are the advantages you ask? It’s real cheap. The disadvantages are many.

The following is rare but possible, if there is enough pressure and the plug is tight enough the plug could dislodge itself rather violently possibly injuring someone. The other very real disadvantage is that by installing a floor drain plug you are allowing some pretty extreme water pressure to build underneath your floor. We have seen basement floors crack because of hydraulic pressure under the floor. In some instances you are better off letting the basement flood to alleviate the damage to the foundation floor. Lastly, you’ll never be able to detect a plumbing blockage in the sewer system until it’s a real problem.

Install a StandPipe. This is a pipe installed inside your floor opening that allows somewhere for the water to go in case of a back-up. What are the advantages? It’s cheap. The disadvantages are very similar to the above. Increased hydraulic pressure resulting in possibly buckling of a basement floor and if there is a sewage blockage you won’t find out until it’s a real issue, a very messy issue.

Stand Pipe

The ever popular stand pipe.

Basement Flooding Fix #1

Install a BackWater Valve. These are made by several manufacturers and they are basically heavy duty check valves. They are installed on the main sewer right at the foundation wall. As explained previously most are check valve style in that when water starts backing up into the sewer line the valve slams shut. If a homeowner chooses a manual style back water valve they have to crank the valve shut during heavy rains and remember to open it back up when the rain is over because if someone uses the facilities while the valve is closed you will have some serious backups. Advantages of having a backwater valve, they work and they work well. Disadvantages, they aren’t cheap to buy or install.

Basement Flooding Fix #2

Divorce your floor drain in your house from the house sewer. Basically you just disconnect the sewer from that floor drain tying the house sewer back in after the floor drain. This makes the whole sanitary system in the home or business a stand pipe. Advantages of doing this, again as in the above “fix” it works and the disadvantages are also price.

Basement Flooding Fix #3

The last and probably the most effective fix if it is feasible is to take your gravity sewer make it an overhead sewer. Let’s explain in a little more detail. The waste from the house now drains under the basement floor and out to the street. What you would do is abandon the old sewer, take all the fixtures in the house and tie them in over head in the basement ceiling. You would have to excavate outside dropping down to connect back to the city main at the old connection. You would then tie the basement floor drain into an ejector pit with a pump to take care of any basement fixtures or floor drains.

When the basement fixtures are used they fill up the pit and the ejector pump, pumps the waste to the overhead sewer. The advantages to this are many, usually when taking a sewer overhead you add a cleanout on the sewer as it exits the foundation this facilitates rodding if there are any future stoppages and as in the above “fit” the whole sewer system acts as a stand pipe. The disadvantage as you can already probably imagine is the cost. It’s an extensive plumbing job but one when done correctly can really give you some peace of mind.

Basement Flooding Fix #4

This is a little different angle. This fix has everything to do with the outside of the house. I’m going to give you an example that I myself have experienced first hand. I lived in a home where my back yard back up against the street behind me. There were no houses in back of mine. The street was probably 2 1/2 ft higher than the top of my foundation. When it rained heavily the run off from the street would drain into my backyard. There was nothing stopping the water from accumulating around my foundation and we had flooding issues from day 1. There are many different ways to tackle this issue but the one that would work the best is to change the grade of the backyard to take the water away from the house. The first step is to build a berm at the back of the property to shield the backyard to some degree. The next step is to have a landscaper come in and grade the backyard sloping the grade away from the house to the berm. Where the berm and grading meet you install a french drain 24″ down with perforated drain tile and a bed of pea gravel. This will allow the water to collect under the grass so you don’t end up with a pond in your backyard. Understand that if you have a situation like this there is no inexpensive fix. You can also install drain tile next to the foundation in lieu of building a berm and regrading but this fix will not keep the water from running info the backyard it will only partially protect your basement from flooding. If the drain tile becomes overwhelmed you’ll still flood. Regrading is a permanent fix to a complex problem.

Basement Flooding Fix #5 This One Needs A Story

Bottom Line, Basement Flooding Sucks

If you’ve read this site over the years you’ll notice there are many articles about basement flooding. Never did I think I’d be writing an article about my own flooded basement. It’s a bit embarrassing actually made more so by the fact that it’s been a real bear to figure it out. What I hope to convey to my readers is that basement flooding can be difficult to figure out no matter how seasoned you are.

The Beginning: First Flood

When we moved into our house it was completely gutted and rehabbed and the basement was finished before we moved in. A basement bathroom was built and the floor was tiled. The rest of the basement was carpeted. There were two low spots that I believed to be floor drains however, they were carpeted over. Since we moved into the house in late winter we would soon find out how the house handled a good rain. Unfortunately we found out pretty quick. During a nasty downpour in early spring I got the dreaded “wet carpet in basement, It’s flooding Sean” text from my wife. So I rushed home to find the carpet soaked in both low spots. I cut the carpeting back to confirm what I suspected, two floor drains both backing up. I had easy access to the clean-out on the waste stack so I got my hands on a Rigid K-1500 and opened up the sewer. The water went down and all seemed well that is until the next heavy rain. Once again I was out and about, and my wife texted me “water in basement again, come home”. So run home I did with the rodder in tow. Once again I punched through the blockage and the water drained. Of course I broke out the wet/dry vacuum, dehumidifier, fans and portable heater to dry out the carpeting.

picture of cast iron wye with cleanout

Because of the age of the house and the proximity of several large trees I suspected I had a tree root issue. There were several lingering issues that had to be addressed before the flooding could be resolved. I had an accessible clean-out that dropped straight down into the house sewer however, the fitting used was not a long sweep fitting so the only head I could use to unblock the line was a spade head. Had a long sweep fitting been used we could have gradually opened up the sewer with a tree root cutting head. Would it have fixed the problem for good? No, however it would have bought us some time.

Ridgid Sea Snake

Next Step Sewer Video Inspection

Because there was no plumbing cleanout in the yard we had two choices; run a sewer camera up the line from the street or attempt to put the camera in the cleanout from the house. Luckily the sewer camera head was able to make the turn and we were able to assess the problem. From what we found we had two serious issues:

One was that fact that we had a ton of tree roots and there was really no way to get to them unless we came in from the street

Two was that the storm sewer was criminally undersized. Even during a moderate rain the storm sewer would run almost full. Translation: Even if we cleared the tree roots out we would still back up anytime we had a downpour.


Installing a Forced Main Is the Cadillac of Flood Control

The most extensive and expensive option would be to install a forced main flood control system. The first option gives you access to the sewer for tree root maintenance and for a possible blockage but does nothing to stop the water in the case of a surcharged city sewer. The second option gives you ease of access for maintenance purposes and a heavy-duty backwater valve to stop any water from backing up into your house. However, what happens when the check valve engages for an extended period of time during a long downpour? You can’t use the plumbing in your house. If you flush a toilet the wastewater is hitting a closed check valve, if you try washing clothes, using a dishwasher, etc. you will back up at the lowest fixture in the house. If you have a basement shower with a gravity sewer it’s coming up at that fixture. A forced main sewer is the answer. Some call this a sewer lift station but it’s really not. Let me explain the system:

  • An excavation is made at a predetermined location where your sewer exits the house. You try to take landscaping and tree location into consideration when digging.
  • After exposing the sewer line and expanding the excavation to accommodate a concrete manhole the aforementioned manhole is notched or cored for the sewer piping and the manhole is lowered into place. Here’s where the magic happens. The sewer is repiped with a sanitary tee turned to 10 or 2 o’clock. (stay with me I’ll explain in a second) A backwater valve is installed on the outlet side of the tee, a fitting reduced to 2” is installed on the outlet side of the back water valve and that is connected in-line with a short piece of pipe where it leaves the manhole.
  •  We are just going to concentrate on the plumbing in the manhole for now. An ejector pump is installed at the bottom of the pit and it is piped with a check valve over to the reduced fitting on the outlet side of the backwater valve.
  • Lets move outside the manhole. You install a cleanout outside the manhole and connect it to the small piece of pipe exiting the manhole.
  • Now you backfill with new trench backfill that conforms with all local and state codes.
Picture of a forced main flood control system

So how does it all work? You have the cleanout so you can maintain the sewer in case of a backup from outlet side of the cleanout to the street. You have an opening inside the manhole so you can rod, hydro jet or camera from the manhole into the house and you have a backwater check valve in case of a surcharged city sewer. But what happens if the city sewer backs up and you are also using shower, toilet, dishwasher, clothes washer or any other plumbing fixture with a waste outlet? You’ve got a wastewater Mexican standoff. Wastewater is trying to leave the property but the check valve is shut because of the surcharged sewer. Remember that open tee fitting I wrote about above? In this particular case that open fitting would allow the wastewater to pour out into the pit so there is no potential backup in the house. Once the water level is high enough he ejector pump would cycle forcing the water on the city side of the check valve hence the name “forced main.” Once the flood control system was installed we had no more issues with sewer backups of any kind.

You could install an overhead sewer however in my case our foundation sits 2ft above the ground not allowing for much depth to bury the sewer line. An overhead sewer also doesn’t address fixture usage in the house in case of a city sewer backup.

Time Passes Basement Floods Again: The Mystery Continues

Everything was fantastic for some time. No heart palpitations when it rained, no water. Then slowly water started to accumulate back at the now concrete covered floor drain. I started to see a pattern and it was after we used the shower. But every time I ran the shower to watch if water reached the low spot none would show up. This isn’t completely unusual because there are instances where showers leak only when a person is using them due to the base flexing because of the weight. But again it was ambiguous and difficult to trouble shoot.

And then we had series of torrential rain over the course of 48 hours. I was in my office and I heard my son call for me rather sheepishly “Dad” “Yeah buddy what do you need?” “Um its flooding” “Ok how bad?” “Pretty bad, I think you need to see it” I walked out the door to see a quickly spreading pool of water maybe 8ft by 10ft 2” deep in the center. Because the basement is daily living space and my office is also located there I immediately sprint up the stairs to get towels and fans and a shop vac to attempt to control the flood.

There were a couple good things to come out of this basement flooding. One, I was determined to figure this out and two I could see water coming up through the tiles in the bathroom and running from the back of the bathroom to the low spot. This gave me a clue as to the source of the flooding. It had to be coming from the foundation. Because there were several cracks that were repaired in the basement I never thought there would be another but I went outside to look at the foundation and estimated were the water was coming from and after digging down about 6” I found a crack and a patch.

At least I had a place to start however, this still didn’t take away the nagging feeling I had about the leaking shower. Finally I pulled back the carpet and ran the shower for about 15 minutes, sure enough water began running inside the wall right back to our now infamous low spot.

Now we knew we had not one but two leaks that were independent of one another but the water from each ended up in the same place. When doing work at another person’s home it’s usually pretty fun to tear things apart however, when it’s your own house not so much but demolition had to be done.

First we tore out the drywall covering the foundation wall to reveal as expected a pretty sizeable crack that was patched however the epoxy covering the crack began to peel. I brought in a foundation-sealing expert and after he removed all of the epoxy patching he determined that the sealant probably didn’t go all the way through the crack. We set up a time to do it right.

On to that pain in the butt shower. After taking off the base board trim I could see that floor was open underneath the shower and the base was built on 2x4s to raise it off the ground a bit. I could see the shower drain piped into the ground but I couldn’t see beyond that. I turned the shower on and within seconds water began backing up from around the shower drain piping and it began running under the shower base and along the wall. Although I wasn’t sure why it was backing up yet at least I knew for sure there was a leak.

The next step was to uncover the connection and luckily for me that wasn’t too difficult. After breaking up some of the concrete right outside the shower and digging a bit I found an old floor drain. The plumber that piped the shower drain, piped it into the old floor drain with epoxy. (Code approved? NOT!) Although that is pretty shoddy plumbing what’s worse is that the waste piping serving the floor drain wasn’t taking any water.

Excavation to Uncover the Waste Piping

I had to do quite a bit of excavation to finally uncover the waste line servicing the floor drain. Once excavated I cut out a section of piping to find that it was 100% blocked with 20 years of black sediment. This floor drain hadn’t been functional in decades. I ended up cutting out all of the 2” piping until it became 4”. I ran our garden hose into the line to make sure it was clear and I visually inspected it as well. I subsequently re-piped the shower correctly with PVC, tested it, back filled it with pea gravel and some spoils and cemented over. We brought in a contractor to do the drywall, tile, painting and carpentry.

Would I call this endeavor a success? I suppose, one that took me 9 months to truly figure out. The reason I wanted to share this story with you especially in such detail is because I wanted you to know how difficult it is at times to track down basement flooding issues. I think of myself as an expert in this area of plumbing and it was still very difficult to pin down. I literally had three separate water issues manifesting in the same spot for three separate reasons. I’m lucky I still have hair because I pulled out some of it while trying to figure it out. If you bring a plumbing or basement leak professional out to your home give them the time to go over all the possibilities because as you’ve read above there are quite a few of them.

How to Deal with a High Water Table

The next section of this topic has everything to do with hydraulic pressure against your foundation floor and walls. There are some areas in the country/world where the water table never gets high enough for there to be flooding issues if you live in one of these areas good for you if you don’t read on.

We’ve talked a little bit about water pressure and how it affects your foundation, if you are having flooding problems in a basement or crawlspace and you don’t have a sump pit and pump you don’t have a drain tile system in your house. Most homes with basements are supplied with drain tile systems on the inside of the foundation under the basement floor. When it rains water is collected into the drain tile and the water flows to the pit and it’s evacuated by the sump pump. This kind of drain tile system is an acceptable way to take water away from a home’s foundation.

Let’s start from the obvious, if you have a sump pump in your basement and you are flooding and your sump pump isn’t working have it replaced. If you’re not sure it’s working unplug it for ten seconds and plug it back in, all pumps should cycle, if it doesn’t, you’re going to have to replace your pump. If the pump is working and evacuating water from the pit and the foundation is still taking water there could be multitude of issues.

The first thing to check is to see if the drain tile is collapsed. The collapse would still allow water into the pit but any water before the collapse would find its way into the house. If the drain tile is found to be intact then it is likely that the amount of water is too much for your interior drain tile to handle. One solution to this would be to install a second drain tile system on the exterior of the foundation tying it back to the existing sump pit or installing a second pit. This can be an expensive fix but sometimes it’s necessary.

Emergency Flooded Basement, What To Do First

Here are the steps you should take if you come home or walk downstairs to a flooded basement. We have several acquaintances that sleep with one eye and one ear open during thunderstorms. Although waking up to a wet basement is never very fun. Having a plan of attack in the event it happens can mean the difference between minor damage and a major restoration.

First Step to Take

Sometimes it’s easy to figure out why the basement flooded if your power has been out for several hours. The water table is super high and you’re sump pump isn’t pumping so the basement floods. This one is easy, if you don’t have a battery back sump pump or a standby generator you grab a cocktail and wait till the power comes back on. If you’ve got some sandbags ready or you have a family the size of the Duggars and a garage full of buckets you can get to work but most of us don’t.

If the power is on you have to determine the cause of the basement flooding. Go outside and take a peek at the discharge piping from your sump pump. It should be piped independently outside to a retention area or to the municipal storm sewer. You should be able to see water pumping out right away. If the pump is removing water your existing pump is being overwhelmed.

Get the Water Out As Quickly As Possible

The first thing you need to do is get the water out as quickly as possible. The longer the water sits in your basement the greater the chance you have of developing mold. So if you have power and your sump pump is actually pumping water you need to get other temporary pumps with discharge piping helping the cause. You want to make sure the flooding has completely stopped so you can move on to the next step.

**Caution** as with any situation where you are dealing with water and the possible contact with electricity please take special care. We would recommend calling a professional if the water is over 2″ in depth across the entire basement.

The Water is Out, What’s Next?

So the pumps helped with the water removal now what? If you have carpet in the basement tear it out and throw it away because it will get musty. The smell of the mold forming is something you’re going to want to avoid. There is no way to dry it in time to save it from being a petri dish for basement mold smells. Now you have to dry the floor, and any walls. Fans won’t cut it, manually drying it is your best bet. Find your local tool rental company and rent a torpedo heater or a couple and turn them on full blast until the basement is dry. There are many different companies you can purchase a heater from, just make sure the heater isn’t too hot, you don’t want it to overheat the area.

Maters Torpedo

A Couple of these will dry things out quickly

What if The Basement Was Finished?

The basement was finished with flooring and clean drywall right? We told you what you should do with the flooring or carpeting. So that leaves you with a drywall problem. You can’t dry the walls quick enough to prevent water damage and subsequent mold. The standard procedure for flooded basement drywall is to remove the baseboard and the first two feet of drywall. We agree with this procedure unless the water has been lying stagnant for some time. If that is the case all of it has to come out. Trust me, I’ve been in your shoes before, and it’s not a fun process, but it’s necessary.

Again the above can all be done by a professional plumbing contractor in conjunction with a restoration company but some of the steps can be done by you the homeowner.  As always thank you for reading and we hope it helps in the event of basement flooding.

I always tell people if you’re going to spend a significant amount of money finishing your basement spend 10% on a real flood control system. If it costs you 50K on the basement spend 5K on flood control.

This post first appeared on http://www.theplumbinginfo.com

How to Fight Grease Stuck In Pipes

A clogged drain can throw life out of whack in any household. There are many reasons that can cause a drain to clog, but grease accumulation is the most common – especially in the kitchen sink. Yet bathroom pipes can also be at risk. Read on to learn more about grease build-up, how to unclog pipes yourself and when to call a plumber. Also, better yet, learn how to prevent grease build-up in the first place!

The dangers of grease in the pipes

A grease-clogged drain is a big headache. In addition to blocking water flow, the subsequent back-up is messy, foul-smelling and ultimately unhygienic. But you may be surprised to learn that you don’t have to make a habit of deliberately pouring cooking oil and grease down the drain, as covered in our blog post – “Still Pouring Grease Down the Sink?” As the good people at Balkan Sewer & Drain Cleaning point out, there’s “hidden” grease in many foods.

“Grease, oil, and fat are common by-products of foods or cooking processes. Many other things can build an accumulation of grease inside drain pipes such as meats, food scraps, dairy products, butter, coffee grinds, rice, eggshells, many soaps, and detergents as well. Basically anything else that comes from food or is used for cooking can be a potential cause of a grease clogged pipe. Even when you are a very cautious person, you may not notice the existence of grease in the drain pipe until overflowing happens.”

Think your bathroom pipes are immune? Most soaps are based on animal or vegetable fat, and grooming products such as shaving gel can also build up in pipes over time.

How do clogged pipes occur?

Kitchen sinks, especially the sink traps, are the most vulnerable to grease build-up. Fat, oil, grease and grit (FOGG) – along with water – flow down the kitchen sink easily, more so because the water is usually warm. When the water reaches the pipe, it becomes cold over time. It is easy for the water to pass through, but the FOGG solidifies in cold water. The grease either sinks to the bottom of the pipe – or, in a more likely scenario – floats on top of the water, forming a coat on top of the pipe. The grease accumulation slowly builds as more and more grease goes down the sink, eventually clogging the drain completely.

More from Balkan Sewer & Drain Cleaning:

“Drain pipe clogging is possibly caused by a mixture of calcium and fat as well. Human urine and corrosion from pipe produces calcium; when mixed with fats from any source, formation of dense and fairly hard soap takes place. It means that any pipe located in any room in the house can get clogged by soap formulated by the mixture of calcium and fats on day-to-day basis.”

Will a little elbow grease work?

Dealing with grease clogs is not an easy task. Applying elbow grease (the only kind recommended around a drain) on an existing clog can get the water flowing again, but the idea is to prevent grease clogs. Home improvement writer Hannah Madans offers these tips in her article for Do It Yourself.

An ounce of prevention In addition to not pouring bacon (or any other kind of) grease down the drain, take care to keep that hidden grease at bay. Wipe off utensils and plates before putting them in the sink, and use a grease-dissolving dish detergent. Such detergents are labeled accordingly. They prevent grease build-up, but do not dissolve existing solidified grease in pipes. If possible, install a garbage disposal – yet be sure to use that properly, as well.

Use caustic cleaners – Consumer drain cleaners are readily available in supermarkets and big box retailers. Some brands are more eco-friendly than others, while some are formulated to be compatible with septic systems. Read the label carefully to make sure you’re buying the product that best suits your specific needs and plumbing system – and then follow label instructions carefully. If the first attempt doesn’t clear the clog, refer to the instructions regarding how to safely repeat the process.

Use a homemade grease remover If you want to cut down on cost, you can make a grease removing cleaner at home. Boil water, then take one part of hot water and mix it with one part of vinegar. Pour the solution into your drain and allow it to stand for several minutes. While the hot water melts the grease, the vinegar will eat at the grease sticking on the pipes. After pouring the hot water and vinegar mixture into your drain, follow it up with some boiling water. The boiling water should flush the remaining grease from your pipe.

As mentioned earlier, clogged drains can make your kitchen smelly. To get rid of the foul odor emanating from the drain, you can mix one part of hot water with one part of bleach. Pour this mixture down the drain, followed with warm, soapy water.

When is it time to call a plumber?

If your DIY attempts fail to clear the clog, call a plumber. Sometimes the grease consolidates to the extent that home remedies don’t work.

The post How to Fight Grease Stuck In Pipes appeared first on Adams and Son Plumbing Services.

Why Whole-House Water Treatment Is Much Better Than Bottled Water

boy-drinks-waterHave you considered having water filtration installed for your house? Probably, since you’re reading this. People are searching for healthier water quality today because of the concern about pollutants entering the municipal water supply. Although water goes through treatment plants to remove harmful chemicals, bacteria, and heavy metals, many of those same impurities can enter the pipes carrying the water to homes and businesses. Aging pipes can also send pollutants into the water supply.

Concern about water quality often drives people to purchase bottled water as a solution. If you’re thinking about the installation of water filtration systems in Glendale, AZ for your home, you already have suspicions that bottled water isn’t the best, cost-effective choice.

And you are right.

Bottled Water Isn’t What People Think It Is

Here’s something we need to explain at the top: bottled water is rarely better quality than municipal water, and sometimes is worse.

Companies selling bottled water want you to believe you’re drinking something that purified and fresher than fresh. “Pure spring water!” But most bottled water is coming straight from the municipal supply and receiving nothing more than basic filtration—if that. Because the water is shipped across state lines, it isn’t subject to basic municipal requirements and can be approved for sale even if it’s lower quality.

Then factor in how much bottled water costs, and you’ll start to see the serious problem. Bottled water costs $11.8 billion total in the US each year, and the average consumption per consumer can add up to $250 per year, and that’s the low estimate.

Bottled water is also terrible for the environment. Plastic manufacturing has a major impact, and even worse is the amount of plastic that ends up in landfills. Only around 20% of water bottles are recycled, and the rest total up to about 2 billion tons of garbage put into the landfills.

Whole-House Water Filtration Is Superior in Every Way

When you arrange with one of our water quality experts to put a whole-house filtration system onto your water main, you’ll have cost-effective, high quality water with minimal effect on the environment—and you’ll have it all the time, at every tap. You can talk to our professionals to find out what you’ll end up paying per year with a filtration system compared to using bottled water. You could pay less than $100 a year for water for the entire family. Compare this to bottled water: a family of four can spend $1,000 in a year on bottled water.

Water filtration systems are also better at the job of purifying and conditioning water—plain and simple. These systems can be specially targeted toward the impurities entering your home so you end up removing what actually needs to be removed. Another huge benefit is what better-quality water does for your plumbing system. It’s not just about superior health for the people in your home, but superior conditions for the plumbing.

We’re ready to help you out today with better water and better savings!

The Trusted Plumber is your top choice for quality plumbing service in Glendale, AZ. Call to find out more about our water treatment services.

This post first appeared on https://www.thetrustedplumber.com

4 Interesting Facts about Your Home Plumbing

Dad and Daughter Testing SinkMany homeowners don’t know a lot about their home’s plumbing. The plumbing system in any home can be complex and intricate. The good news is that when you need plumbing installation in Pittsburgh, PA, you can rely on professional plumbers. In the meantime, though, there are plenty of quick facts you can learn about your home’s plumbing that will be very helpful to you, your home, your plumbing, and your wallet.

The Pipes Need Space

It’s very common to utilize under-sink space as storage. In the cabinets beneath many folks’ sinks, you’ll probably find bottles of cleaner, sponges, towels, and all sorts of home goods. However, these spaces should actually be kept pretty empty, for two good reasons. First of all, you don’t want to bump or dislodge any of the plumbing by taking out and putting back supplies from under the sink. Secondly, if you need plumbing services, the plumber will need unobstructed access to the pipes.

Not Everything Is Flushable

If you truly want to protect your home’s plumbing, forget about flushing things (other than bodily waste) down the toilet. One of the most common reasons people call a plumbing service company is to fix a clogged toilet or pipe. Even items that seem harmless can gather over time and clog a major part of your home’s plumbing. These include:

  • Kid Plays with Toilet PaperHair
  • Tissues
  • Band aids
  • Baby Wipes
  • Dental Floss
  • Cotton Balls
  • Paper Towels

Make sure the young kiddos know this fact!

Leaky Faucets Are Costly

It may not bother you that your sink leaks a little bit. You may think that a few drops of water here and there don’t really add up to much. Unfortunately, these small amounts of water can add up very quickly, wasting a lot of water and costing you money each month. A faucet that drips consistently throughout the day can waste upwards of a gallon of water each week. Don’t pay for water that is going to waste!

You Can Shut Off the Water

Did you know that it’s possible to shut off the water coming into your house and through your plumbing system? Each home has a main water valve that can be used to interrupt water flow if necessary. As a responsible homeowner, take a few minutes to find this water valve, simply so you know exactly where it is and what condition it is in. This way, if a plumber needs to shut off the water in your home, you can easily show them where they can find the valve.

Keep these four facts in mind for better knowledge and usage of your home’s plumbing. Whether you are looking for plumbing installation or service in Pittsburgh, PA, Stahl Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning can help you! With years of experience, these plumbing professionals can address your concerns and help you navigate your home’s plumbing system. Call today to schedule an appointment for a plumbing checkup or to fix a problem quickly and correctly.

The post 4 Interesting Facts about Your Home Plumbing appeared first on Stahl Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning.

All Plumbing Terminology

Delve into our list of plumbing terminology to make your way in this complex yet necessary market. This article will make it easy for you to understand the core concepts that stand at the foundation of the plumbing world. Let’s begin!

ABS – Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene. Rigid black plastic pipe used for Drain, waste, and vent lines. Please check your local codes to see if this material is code approved. In most major metropolitan areas it is not a code approved material.

ABS Pipe and Fittings

ABS Pipe and Fittings

Absorbent – A material that is used to hold gases, liquids or solids or suspended solids on it’s surface or inside pores. The most common absorbent used in the plumbing world is activated carbon.

Absorption Field – This is a seeping field designed to disperse the liquid waste from a septic tank through a filter bed. The septic tank fills with liquid and solid waste and the liquid waste drains off to the absorption field leaving the solid waste behind.

Absorption Pit – A pit specifically designed to disperse liquid waste from a septic tank through a filter bed.

Access Panel -A covered opening in wall made near a plumbing or electrical fixture to allow access for maintenance. In plumbing an access panel would hide control or shut off valves or cleaouts for rodding plumbing fixtures.

accesspanel

Paintable Access Panel

Acid Dilution Basin – A plumbing appurtenance connected to waste piping servicing a part of a building receiving corrosive or acid waste. Most acid neutralizing basins use limestone as the neutralizing media. Here are some applications where an acid dilution should be used, school labs, hospitals, research facilities, pharmaceutical manufacturing, printing facilities, automotive service centers, film processing, etc.

Acid Waste – Any waste water containing corrosives or acidic liquids that must be neutralized before entering the municipal sewer system. Most often fixtures receiving acid waste are connected to an acid dilution basin which neutralizes acid before the waste water enters the sewer.

Acidwastepipe

Orion Acid Waste Products

Acid Waste Piping – Simply put its waste piping and fittings that are resistant to acid waste. Examples of applications where this is used, laboratories, hospitals, photo labs and printing presses. Some of the materials used in making acid resistant pipe and fittings; glass, polypropylene and polyvinylidene fluoride for really harsh situations. Polyvinylidene fluoride is also fire retardant and when approved can be used in a plenum ceiling.

Acrylic – A very strong and hard thermoplastic and in plumbing it is used as a surface material for bathtubs, shower bases, tub or shower surrounds. When used in bathtubs and showers acrylic is usually back with fiberglass to add strength and rigidity.  Acrylic is also used to make plexiglass shower doors.

Activated Sludge – Waste that contains the solids that have settled during final sedimentation after waste is aerated.

ADA – (Americans with Disabilities Act) This term is very important as it relates to plumbing. It affects the height that water closets can be mounted, the types of handles you can install on a lavatory faucet, how much pressure it takes to push down a flush valve handle and those are just a few. Here is a link to the 2010 ADA Standards publication www.ada.gov/regs2010/2010ADAStandards/2010ADAStandards.pdf

copperadapter

Sweat Copper x MIP Adapter

Adaptor – A fitting used to join dissimilar piping methods i.e. sweat copper to threaded fittings, PVC to cast iron.

Adjusting Linkage – An adjustable rod or strap that forms the connection between the lift rod and the ball lever assembly of the drain.

Aeration – a method to introduce air with water to help in releasing dissolved gasses that contribute to foul odors or unpleasant taste. Aeration can be done in several different ways, air can be bubbled up through the liquid, liquid can be sprayed into the air or the liquid can be agitated oxygenating it by bringing the surface water in to contact with the air. The best example we can give for the use and effects of aeration is the cleansing of the Calumet Sag River in Illinois. Large parks where created along the Calumet Sag River pumping millions of gallons of water through attractively created waterfalls. The results have been staggering.

Aerator Fittings – a type of fitting installed on a plumbing fixture that mixes water with air. These fittings help with water conservation and reduce splashing.

aerator

Faucet Aerator Fitting

Aerobic Bacteria – Bacteria living, active and occurring in the presence of oxygen.

AGA – (American Gas Association)

A.I.A -(American Institute of Architects) This is basically a self policing regulating body that promotes excellence in architecture. They are heavily involved in all facets of education for their members from internship, to mentoring to licensing and support. A.I.A. is also the preferred method by which sub contractors invoice their customers. Chances are if you’ve been a subcontractor for awhile you know exactly what G701, G702 and a G703 form is for. If you are familiar with all of the AIA forms are you probably have a head ache, they can be tedious but they are ultimately there to protect the Owner.

Studor Vent

Studor Air Admittance Valve

Air Admittance Valve – The most common of these is called a STUDOR vent, these valves are designed to allow air into a drainage system with out using a vent. It opens to allow air to equalize pressure in the drainage system but closes to stop sewer odors and gases into the living space.

Air Chamber -A vertical air filled pipe or manufactured spring coil installed above the waterline in a potable water system that absorbs pressure fluctuations when valves are turned off i.e. a shower is turned off or a fill valve in a toilet slams shut. The pressure absorbing devices reduce water hammer. Having air chambers on plumbing fixtures with water connections is code for most municipalities.

Typical Shower Air Gaps

Typical Shower Air Gaps

Air Gap –   The unobstructed physical distance between the outlet end of a  plumbing apparatus or piping delivering potable water to a plumbing fixture to the flood rim level of the receptacle (sink, dishwasher, clothes washer or tank) Think of a kitchen sink faucet with a pullout spray if you pulled it out and laid it in the sink you would have no air gap. The air gap protects the potable water system from cross contamination. Please see Backflow Prevention Device, Vacuum breaker, double detector check valves.

Common Air Gap on Lavatory Fixture

Air Gap on a Lavatory

All Thread Rod – a connecting rod used in almost every construction trade. In the mechanical trades it is mostly used to hang piping materials from the underside of a the structure of the building.. Threads are in one direction and standard hex nuts can easily be screwed on to secure a multitude of different hangers. Come in a variety of sizes and finishes. Most common sizes in the piping trades are 1/4″, 3/8″,1/2″,  5/8 & 3/4″ it’s most common finishes are black and galvanized, stainless steel is also a common material.

Anaerobic Bacteria – Bacteria that lives and grows in the absence of free oxygen. These bacteria get their oxygen by decomposing substances that contain oxygen.

Angle Stop or Angle Valve – Angle stops are named because they are manufactured at a 90degree angle, they are used as shut off valves at the water intake of plumbing fixtures or appliances. They usually have an oval handle or can have a removable handle when vandalism or theft is an issue. They are not meant to be used in high pressure situations.

Angle Stop - Typical Two Way Angle Stop

Common Angle Stop

Angle of Repose – This is one of the first things we learned about excavating in plumbing school. The lesson was followed by a video of a man caught in a cave in. He broke most of the bones in his body amongst other gruesome things. This is the greatest angle above ground level at which backfill or debris will lie without sliding. Please use shoring figure out the angle of repose if you’re digging below 4ft.

ANSI – (American National Standards Institute) The American National Standards Institute was founded in 1918 and they are the U.S. voice for conformity and regulation. ANSI is compromised of government agencies, academic institutions, manufacturers and contractors and their purpose is to enhance the US global position and to create regulations, norms and guidelines. Those regulations affect almost all businesses from every sector.

Anti Microbial (plumbing definition) – Any plumbing fixture or plumbing accessory that is manufactured with anti-microbial characteristics integral to the product. An anti-microbial plumbing product is one that kills or hinders the growth of bacteria, mold, etc. Vitreous china is naturally anti-microbial when glazed because of it’s glazing and non porous surface. Recently toilet seats are a common plumbing accessory manufactured with anti-microbial  properties.

Anti-scald Valve – (please see pressure balanced and thermostatic mixing valve)

Americast – A patented process from American Standard that uses a porcelain surface, an enameling grade steel material and a structural composite backing bonded together to create a sink that is similar to cast iron in durability, heat retention and sound deadening but weighs considerably less therefore it is cheaper to install.

Annealing – In plumbing the process by which rigid copper is made soft and pliable. The process consists of heating the metal to a certain temperature and holding that temperature for a set amount of time then allowing the metal to cool slowly to room temperature.

Anode Rod –  These sacrificial anode rods are installed at the top of a water heater tank and are generally made of magnesium or aluminum with a steel core. Simply put, through electrolysis the anode rods will corrode before the exposed metal in the tank. If the anode rod has been corroded the water begins to attack the exposed metals in your water heater which will eventually cause it to fail.

Anti-Siphon Valve (Vacuum Breaker) – The simple definition is an anti-siphon valve is a device installed on a water supply line that prevents water from backing up into the potable water system. Vacuum breakers are an example of an anti-siphon valve. Anti-siphon valve are most commonly spring loaded one way valves. When the direction of flow is going in desired direction all works well, if the direction of liquid changes the valve slams shut prevent back siphonage.

Vacuum Breaker

Vacuum Breaker​

Apron (or Skirt) – The decorative portion of a bathtub that covers the rough-in area of the tub. It is most easily recognized on a whirlpool tub, the apron is most often removable to be able to service the tubs plumbing and or motor.

bathtub apron

Bathtub Apron

ASA – (American Supply Association) Formally founded in December of 1969 the ASA is an organization that represents wholesale distributor and their supplier in the plumbing, heating, cooling, industrial and mechanical pipe, valve and fittings industries.

ASME – (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) A professional member ship group founded in 1890, this group originally came together to test steam vessels because of the numerous failures. Now it is the premiere standards development organization. Setting codes and standards throughout the mechanical trades.

ASSE- (American Society of Sanitary Engineering) Founded in 1906 by Henry Davis Chief Plumbing Inspector for the District of Columbia. This group consisted of plumbing engineers, plumbing inspectors and installers all with the common idea of making plumbing safer and more universal though out the United States. They also have quite a bit of influence as to the adoption of plumbing code and the vital testing of plumbing product and theory.

ASTM International – (formerly know as American Society for Testing Materials) Formed in 1898 by chemists and engineers from the Pennsylvania Railroad they organized the railroad’s new chemistry department, where they investigated the technical properties of oil, paint, steel, and other materials the Pennsylvania Railroad bought in large quantities. Organized a new set of standard that they expected their suppliers to follow. At the present they are “globally recognized leaders in the development and delivery of international voluntary consensus standards” Please visit their web site for a more detailed history.

Back Flow – The circumstance of water traveling from one system back into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning.

Back Flow Preventer – The two most common types of back flow prevention devices are a double detector check assembly and an RPZ. A double detector check assembly is one device that houses two check valve assemblies in the line of flow. The check valves are spring actuated and are designed to open with 1 pound of pressure.

The double detector check assembly is installed with one (1) gate valve on the inlet of the valve and one (1) gate valve on the outlet side of the valve. These assemblies prevent back flow or back pressure in nonhazardous situations and are most used to protect the potable water system of a building from the water in a fire prevention system.

A detector check is made with a by-pass assembly and meter to detect any unauthorized or illegal taps, test cocks are also present so that required yearly testing can take place. Each check valve can be isolated and tested independently to see if they are leaking and operating properly.

An RPZ – is very similar to the double detector check in that it houses two testable check valves. It has two gate valves one (1) on the inlet and one (1) on the outlet. Here is where things change, an RPZ is used in high hazard situations, where contamination of the water supply would pose a significant health hazard.RPZ (reduced pressure zone backflow preventer) and Double Detector Check Valve

Backpressure in a Plumbing System – Pressure that is less than atmospheric pressure. If a sewer drain line is running at 100% capacity and with greater than intended velocity if the waste water passes another drain outlet it could cause a negative pressure. This negative pressure can pull a water seal from a trap causing sewer gas or vermin into the living space. Extremely high winds can also pull the air from the plumbing vent pulling the trap seals with it.

Backup (Sewer) – The overflow of water usually combined with waste from a plumbing fixture caused by a blockage in the fixture drain or waste line servicing the aforementioned plumbing fixture.

Battery Back-up System

Battery Back-up System

Back-up Sump Pumps – Literally any pumping device that acts to back-up the primary sump in case of power failure or primary pump failure. Most  back-up sump devices include some sort of marine battery either wet cell or maintenance free gel battery. There are back-up sump pumps that use no electricity and function on incoming water pressure.

Backwash Cycle – No this isn’t what you’re sibling leaves in the bottom of the Gatorade bottle. The Backwash cycle is a process a water softener or water filter goes into, usually pre-programmed for off hours, whereby the water flow is reversed cleaning the filter media. The waste water is sent to an open site drain.

Backwater Valve – A valve that is installed on the house sewer that prevents water from backing up into the house. The most common use for a backwater valve is in situations where the city sewer is combined waste and storm. In these cases during torrential rain the city sewer runs full with only one place to go, back into the house or businesses connected to it, a backwater valve is installed in this situation.

Baffle – An object or screen placed in a plumbing fixture or appurtenance to change the direction of or retard the flow of water or flue gasses. The most common baffles used in plumbing are the ones found in a grease separator. The baffles are used to slow down the incoming waste water, allowed the suspended grease and solids to cool and rise to the top for easy removal.

Balancing Cocks or Valves A valve with an adjustable partition or gate which can be used to increase or decrease flow. They also have self sealing ports in which thermometers can be inserted to check the temperatures of the liquids.

Ball Cock – The valve by which the water enters a tank type toilet (water closet), fills the tank and shuts the flow of water off when the water reaches a predetermined height in the tank.

Barrier Free – This relates to ADA and handicap access, the easiest to understand is the barrier free shower base. A barrier free shower base has little or no threshold to encumber a wheelchair from entering or exiting.

Basin Wrench – Is a tool that only has one real use , it’s inexpensive and pretty easy to use. A basin wrench actually looks like a steel bar with a curved head with teeth on one end. The other end ends with a T handle. Obviously turn the water off before using. Go under the sink and position the head at a 90 angle catching the nut, turn in the appropriate direction to remove and your all set. If the sink faucet is too high to reach you may have to pull out the extended handle.

Basket Strainer – A device shaped like a cup or a basket with holes or slots that fits inside a drain that allows water to drain out but catches debris before it enters the waste piping.

Beam Clamps – A clamping device used when beams are the only thing used for support. They are used in conjunction with pipe hangers to ensure proper support and pitch. The beam can be c-clamp type or can span the entire beam.

Bench Mark – It is a known elevation set throughout a building or job site that all trades can use to locate proper elevations for doors, windows, plumbing fixtures etc. An elevation will be set usually by the general contractor in accordance with the engineer and all trades can measure from that elevation.  It can also be a mark on a permanent flat service whereby it is used to lay out walls, columns, stairwells, etc.

Bends – A generic term given to all elbows made from all types of piping material.

Bidets– A plumbing fixture about the same height as a seat of a chair that is most often used for the bathing of the external genitals and the posterior parts of the body.

Biodegradable – Any material subject to degradation to simpler substances by way of biological action i.e. aerobic and anaerobic decomposition. Substances that are considered biodegradable are detergents, human waste, organic matter.

Black Water – Waste water from toilet, urinals, bidets or food prep receptacles or waste water from drains receiving chemical waste.

Bleed (Water System) – To drain a pipe or piping system of excess air by opening plumbing valves or appurtenances exposed to the atmosphere i.e. shower valves, faucets and drain down valve.

Blind Plug – A plug or cap used on no-hub piping to end a drain line. It is affixed to the end of the pipe by a no-hub coupling.

BOCA CODE – (Building Officials Code Administrators International)

Body Sprays – For all practical purposes these are shower heads.  Some are hand held, some are on a sliding bar so that the can be moved up or down and some are positioned throughout a shower to spray on different parts of your body while showering.

Body Spray Tiles

Body Spray Tiles

BoilersSee PlumbingMechanical Equipment

Brackish Water – Any water containing bacteria between 1,000 and 15,000 ppm of dissolved solids.

Braided Supplies – A flexible pressure tubing usually made of synthetic material that is encased in braided threads of steel or stainless steel. The braided covering protects the synthetic tubing from damage due to abrasions and crimping.

Branch Vent – A vent connecting one or more individual vents with the vent stack.

Branch Water Piping – The local domestic water piping that extends from the vertical risers (or other mains) and supplies water to plumbing fixtures or equipment.

Brass Seats and Seals – In a plumbing valve the surface area on the moving part of a valve and the stationary part of the valve. When the moving part of the valve comes in contact with the non-moving part the flow of water stops completely. The most common material used for valves seats is brass. Brass seats eventually have to be repaired or replaced because with continual use the seating surface degrades over time.

Brazing – uses (How To) Similar to soldering, brazing is the process of filling a void (for plumbing) in a pipe joint with a filler metal to join pieces of pipe or fittings. Brazing filler metals generally have melting temperatures above 1,100 degrees Fahrenheit. Most brazing filler metals contain some amount of silver, copper and phosphorus.

Break Tank – A type of vessel that holds a supply of water that is to be used for a specific purpose (mainly heating) other than for consuming or flushing plumbing fixtures.  It is filled through an air gap (to prevent contamination of the domestic water system) and the water supplying the tank shuts off, when filed to a predetermined height, by an automatic shut off valve.

Bubbler – The word bubbler has a rather interesting back story. It’s definition is simple, it’s another word to describe a drinking fountain like the ones you see at a park. However, there is really only one place in the country where it is used with regularity and it’s in the Badger State of Wisconsin. Check out this article for more on this strange little regional phenomenon.

Building Drain – The lowest point of a drainage system where all of the interior drainage piping meets and is discharged into the sewer.

Bushing – A pipe fitting used to join two pieces of dissimilar sized piping. There are many different joining methods but the most frequently used is threaded on both ends.

Butterfly Valves – The butterfly valve has some similar features to that of the wafer check valve. It is very thin and lightweight so space and support are not issues. It is closed using a wafer or disc that is mounted on a rod that is secured in the middle of the valve. The rod exits the valve at the top and ends with a handle that incrementally controls the internal disc. In the open position the disc is parallel to the pipe in the closed position the disc is perpendicular to the pipe closing off flow. These types of valves can be used to control flow and are especially affective in tight spots. Most times the handles are spring loaded and allow you to lock the valve into a certain position.

Nibco Butterfly Valve

Nibco Butterfly Valve

CAD (Computer Aided Design) – A method of designing building mechanical systems using a well known computer software. Prior to CAD, engineers and architects had to design and layout all of the different piping trades by hand and with the aid of the subcontractors “shop drawings”. Now most of it’s done via computer. There are still changes in the field but those changes are always relayed to the engineer and are updated on the master CAD files.

Cast Iron Pipe and Fittings – Plumbing sewer and vent pipe and fittings that are made from cast iron.  It is manufactured in two (2) types–hub and spigot, and no-hub.  The hub and spigot pipe and fittings are manufactured as either service weight or extra heavy.  This relates to the wall thickness of the pipe and fittings, the extra heavy having a thicker wall thickness.  The extra heavy pipe and fittings are rarely used today and availability of various fittings is limited.

The hub and spigot type pipe is manufacture in three (3) lengths–five (5) and ten (10) foot single hub, five (5) double hub and thirty (30) inch double hub.  Single hub means the pipe has one (1) end that is plain and the other has a hub and double hub means there are hubs on both ends.  The no-hub pipe and fittings are manufactured in service weight and the pipe only comes in (10) foot lengths. The hub and spigot pipe and fittings are joined by using either neoprene gaskets or lead and oakum.  The no-hub pipe and fittings are joined by using a stainless steel band with neoprene gasket that is manufactured specifically for the no-hub pipe.

Charlottte Cast Iron Fitting

Cast Iron Waste Fitting

Ceramic Discs – similar to brass seating material, ceramic is the hardest material you can use in seating material. One ceramic disc rotates and slides against the other. As the holes or notches in the discs align the water passes through. Ceramic discs are completely unaffected by water temperature so the neither expand nor contract, they are not damaged by debris in the water line.

Chair Carrier – (Please see Fixture Carrier)

Check Valves – A check valve is a one way valve in that is has one inlet and one outlet that allows the a liquid to travel in one direction. It is used to halt the flow of the aforementioned liquid in case of a drop in pressure or reverse in directional flow. The majority of check valves used in the plumbing industry work automatically meaning when the pressure or direction changes the valve slams shut.

Brass Nibco Check Valve

Brass Nibco Check Valve

Circuit Setter -A circuit setter is a balancing type valve used in an HVAC or plumbing system to regulate pressure in the whole system or within part of the system. In a plumbing system it is used to regulated pressure between hot and cold water inside the potable water system. Many years ago a check valve and a ball valve where used, the check valve would shut down a hot or cold water supply if there was a sudden drop in pressure and the ball valve with a memory stop was used to regulate flow. This prevented cold or hot water bleed over if the pressure was increased or decreased in either supply piping.

Circuit Vent – A branch vent that serves two or more fixtures with integral traps like a water closet or fixtures with p-traps installed in a battery (fixtures grouped together). The vent extends from the top of the horizontal waste branch in front of the last fixture waste to the main vent stack of a building drainage system.

Cleanout – An accessible opening that is placed in a drainage line  at a convenient location to accommodate drain cleaning equipment in the event of a line blockage.

Cleanout CoverAn esthetically pleasing cover (usually chrome plated) that hides a cleanout. The cleanout cover is usually furnishing with a chrome center screw that threads into the cleanout plug.

Cleanout Cover

Chrome Cleanout Cover

Clevis Hangers – A piece of metal bent in the shape of a “U” that is used to support pipe or conduit from a structure. The “U” has holes through both ends through which a rod is inserted and attached to the rod is a yoke with a hole in it through which a threaded rod is inserted and the threaded rod is attached to the structure.

Closet Flanges – A flanged fitting that is connected to the sanitary drainage system that is used to bolt a water closet (toilet) to the floor. They are made of different materials, i.e., cast iron, copper and PVC.

Cock Hole Cover – We know it’s a silly word but it is an actual plumbing term. It is simply this, a metal cover that is inserted onto an empty hole in your kitchen sink or counter top. They come in different finishes like chrome, brass, white and stainless steel. Say you replace your old kitchen sink faucet that has a side spray with an updated model that has a pull out spout. The faucet with the side spray used a four hole sink.  The one with a pull spout uses three holes or one if you don’t use a cover plate, you’ll have one extra hole. You’ll need the ever famous cock hole cover.

Coffee Station – In a commercial tenant space, a place for employees to get coffee, ice, or have lunch or take a break. Coffee stations typically consist of a kitchen sink, faucet, coffee maker, and refrigerator. Depending on the municipality the coffee station may require a grease interceptor and a floor drain. The coffee maker and the refrigerator will require a backflow preventer.

Cold Chisel – A steel hardened tool that is manufactured in various lengths and diameters with a beveled end that is used for chipping and breaking concrete, cast iron, steel and other hard material.

Combined or Combination Sewer – piping that is designed to carry both rain water with sewage. This method of evacuating waste water is being phased out around the country in favor separating the storm sewer from waste.

Composite Material – A material used to manufacture counter tops and and sinks. Composite materials usually have an acrylic base that is colored and different aggregate materials are introduced to give the surface a unique look and in some instances adds strength. Quartz composite sinks are a great example of composite material were quartz is added to give it a unique look and adds strength and resists corroding and chipping.

Compression Fittings – A kind of tubing or pipe connection where a nut, and then a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube and is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened, forming a positive grip and seal without soldering. Also a flexible connector that has a nut and gasket designed to attach directly to an SAE standard compression thread, without the use of a sleeve or ferrule.

Copper Pipe and Fittings Copper pipe and fittings are material used in drainage, waste and vent pipe as well as potable water piping. Copper is fairly easy to work with, has excellent thermal conductive properties and it is very durable. Copper comes in a wide variety of pipe sizes and can handle water, oil and gas.

Core Toilet Rooms – A group of centrally located toilet rooms in a commercial, industrial or institutional building. These toilet rooms are usually designed to accommodate a certain number of workers or guests per floor or per area of a building. If core toilet rooms are in a multi-level building they are usually stacked on top of one another using a common wet column.

CPVC – (Chlorinated Polyethylene) – This is PVC plastic piping infused with chlorine to increase it’s temperature rating. It also improves its fire rating as well.

Cross Connection – Any connection in plumbing that allows potable water to be connected to a non potable water source. Cross connections can be a potentially serious health hazard. Here is an example of a cross connection : a good number of utility sink faucets come with a threaded hose connection at the end of the spout. This is used to attach a hose so a floor or room can be washed down. If the spout or faucet is not installed with a vacuum breaker and the hose is dropped into the utility sink filled with water and a cleaning chemical you have a cross connection.

Dip Tubes – Usually a plastic tube that is inserted into the inlet side of a domestic water heater.  The tube forces the incoming water to the bottom of the heater, (closest to the heating elements) whereby the water is more evenly heated throughout the tank.

Dishwasher Air Gap – An apparatus that is usually mounted next to your faucet, either on the counter or in a knockout on the kitchen sink. This device connects from the waste outlet of the dishwasher to the airgap and from there it connects to a waste opening in the p-trap of the kitchen sink. It allows waste water to flow into the waste piping however of the waste piping should ever back up, the waste water will not back up into the dishwasher because of the aforementioned air gap.  Please see our diagram for further clarification.

Dishwasher Air Gap Blow Up

Dishwasher Air Gap Blow Up

Double Detector Check Valve – The double detector check assembly is installed with one (1) gate valve on the inlet of the valve and one (1) gate valve on the outlet side of the valve. These assemblies prevent back flow or back pressure in nonhazardous situations and are most used to protect the potable water system of a building from the water in a fire prevention system.

A detector check is made with a by-pass assembly and meter to detect any unauthorized or illegal taps, test cocks are also present so that required yearly testing can take place. Each check valve can be isolated and tested independently to see if they are leaking and operating properly.

Downspout Piping – Also known as storm water piping.  It is the piping system that handles the discharge of rain and melted snow water to the city sewers, retention ponds, or ground level pavement or grassy areas.  On the interior of buildings the piping material is usually made of cast iron, copper or PVC.  When it is installed on the exterior of the building the piping material is usually sheet metal like the downspouts on a private residence.

Drain Piping Pitch
(Slope) – In plumbing the grade at which the drain piping is installed to assure that the waste water flows at a speed that allows the piping to be self scouring. Meaning the turbulence and movement of the water cleans the inside of the pipe. 1/4″ per foot is a common pitch for plumbing. We like to say a lazy sewer is a good sewer, if the water is moving too fast it may move past the suspended solids leaving them behind. If enough waste is left behind you have the potential for a build up and an eventual blockage.

Drain Tile System – A system of pipe usually made of corrugated plastic, PVC or clay tile that collects subsoil drainage and allows it to dump into a sewer or water retention area. Drain tile is usually perforated to allow water to seep into the pipe and it is widely used under basement floors or under concrete footings, this keeps water from getting into basements or washing out backfilled soil. Drain tile is also used in athletic fields, farm fields and in any situations where water needs to be removed quickly.

Drainage Fittings (Cast Iron) – This a true plumbing professional term. Obviously all Drainage, Waste and Vent (DWV) are types of fittings used for drainage however cast iron drainage fittings are threaded fittings that are specifically used for drainage piping. These fittings are a dying breed and are only used in certain areas or in repair situations. These fittings are made with pitch built in to assure proper flow. Anvil Corp is one of the last companies to continue making CI drainage fittings. You can find them here. http://www.anvilintl.com/ProductSearch/ProductThumbnailView.aspx?plid=115&ptid=648

Drop in Bath Tub – A bathtub that is built with an integral lip or ledge that is meant to fit into or be dropped-into a pre-framed area that is to receive the bathtub.

Kohler "Devonshire" Drop In Bathtub

Kohler “Devonshire” Drop In Bathtub

Drop-in Anchor – These are anchors that are inserted into a pre-drilled hole in concrete. The anchor has a metal cam inside that when hit or “set” flares the bottom out to secure it in the concrete. Drop-in anchors are threaded on the inside to accept all thread rod or bolts and they are commonly used in conjunction with a clevis hanger to hang piping from the underside of a deck.

Drum Traps – Very rarely used, a drum trap is a circular metal canister with the inlet near the bottom of the trap and the waste outlet is at the top with a removable cover. Ideally the drum trap is installed in a place with easy access so you can remove the cover to clean. Unfortunately many drum traps we’ve encountered are buried behind a wall or the cover is unable to be removed, fused together by time. So when drum trap stop they are extremely difficult to clear by rodding because of their inlet and outlet configuration. Drum traps were installed so people could find jewelry or valuables if lost down the drain. The trap would catch the ring or earring by sinking to the bottom, the likely hood that a valuable would flow into the waste opening at the top of the trap is highly unlikely.

Drum Trap

Duplex Pumps (Ejector or House Pumps) – This is simply a pumping system that uses two pumps instead of one. These pumps are usually equipped with an alternator that alternates pumping cycles to minimize wear on one particular pump. The alternator can be set to alternate the pumps in a variety of ways i.e. every other cycle, every ten cycles or it can be set by usage parameters if equipped with the right controls.

Effluent – Waste material – the waste and/or waste water outflowing from a septic tank.

Ejector Pits – A round, square or rectangular pit (collection vessel) that can be made from cast iron, steel, PVC, fiberglass, concrete or clay tile.  They are used in applications where the sanitary waste that flows into them is lower that the main sewer and by mean of an ejector pump(s) the waste is pumped up and out to the main sewer.  They must always have a gas tight cover and be properly vented.

Ejector Pumps – A device manufactured to elevate water, sewage (suspended solids) or liquid waste from a lower level to a point of discharge where it can be drained away by gravity into a sewer or drain.

Elevated Vacuum Breaker – A vacuum breaker that is elevated off the floor at 7ft-6″. There is a very good reason it is elevated at 7ft-6″ it is above the average height of a man with his arms stretched over his head. Huh? Yep, the reason for this is a person cannot take a hose and stretch to place it above the vacuum breaker rendering the vacuum breaker useless. I know how about we just step on a chair? Whatever…that’s the reason for 7ft-6″. Elevated vacuum breakers are slowly dying.

Classic Chicago Faucet Elevated Vacuum Breaker

Classic Chicago Faucet Elevated Vacuum Breaker

Epoxy Pipe Lining – Epoxy lining of plumbing pipes is used when the cost of digging and or tearing walls and ceilings apart proves to be too cost prohibitive. There are several different types of epoxy pipe lining and they are used based on application type.

  • Air Inversion – Air inversion pipe lining is used in waste, vent, storm and water main to repair broken piping due to ground settling, pipe deterioration, tree roots etc. It is most commonly used in pipe sizing from 4″ to 48″ in diameter. The piping is prepared by video camera inspection, then <the pipe is cleaned and scoured. The pipe is then lined using an air inversion machine. Think of tube sock with epoxy lining on the inside. It is glued on one end and air pressure pushes the sock through the pipe turning it inside out thereby placing the epoxy inside the piping. Please check out this Youtube video that shows you in detail how the process works.
  • Pipe BurstingThe pipe bursting method is used in underground piping i.e. concrete or clay tile where the piping is too deteriorated to repair by other methods. A very strong cable is pulled through deteriorated piping and attached to a conical pipe bursting head, attached behind the head is the new piping. As the pipe bursting head is pulled through the old piping it is being broken up and the new piping is being pulled through the old pipe bed.
  • Epoxy Pipe Restoration – This method is used mostly in water piping and it is most effective in pipe sizes from 1/2″ through 4″. Although some companies have different techniques most have these steps that are common for all. Drain down of water piping being restored, heated and compressed are introduced to the piping to dry pipe thoroughly. A sand slurry mixture is blown into the pipe to scour the inside of the pipe walls, knocking off any scale or oxidation. Finally the epoxy coating is blown in coating the inside of the pipe. Check out the video of CuraFlo explaining the process.

Expansion Tank – A tank usually installed on a closed hot water line used to absorb excess pressure due to thermal expansion. Because water expands when heated, the water needs a place to expand to hence the expansion tank.

Amtrol Expansion Tank

These are code just about everywhere.

Express Riser – A domestic water riser is used to distribute potable water to floor levels that require potable water to function in both commercial or residential applications. For a high rise building maintaining water pressure suitable to proper fixture function is critical. An express riser is a water riser thats sole purpose is to bypass lower floors and service upper floors so adequate water pressure is maintained.

Extension Tailpiece – A length of tubular brass or PVC piping used to extend the waste on a kitchen, lavatory or service sink. Connections or usually Slip Joint or threaded.

Extra Heavy Soil Pipe – Cast iron soil has been used for drainage, waste and vent piping for hundreds of years. Extra heavy soil pipe is specified for extreme conditions and has a very high crush strength. It’s popularity has declined sharply over the last 30 years. It was not uncommon to see extra heavy soil pipe used in schools, hospitals and prisons.

Faucet Types – A faucet is any device that controls the flow of water. The most common types of faucets used in plumbing are kitchen, lavatory, bar, service sink, hose bibbs, shower valve, tub filler and yard hydrants.

Federal Plumbing Code – (Please see National Plumbing Code, BOCA, & IAPMO Uniform Plumbing Code)

Fill Valve – Most commonly referred to as a Ball Cock, the fill valve controls water to the tank of a tank type toilet. The fill valves is operated by means of a float. Most fill valves also have an anti siphon device  or vacuum breaker to ensure there is no cross contamination from the water in the tank to the potable water supply.

Filtration – The process of the flow of water running through a filter medium.

Fixture Carriers – A device that is installed behind a finished wall and anchored to the floor to mount and off the floor plumbing fixtures i.e., lavatories, wall hung toilets, urinals and slop sinks. It is most commonly used in commercial and institutional applications due to increases wear and tear.

Fixture Units (Drainage) – The quantity of load producing effects a plumbing fixture has on a plumbing drainage system. The number is based on the probable discharge of waste water into the plumbing drainage system by different fixtures for a single operation and on the average time between operations. The rate of discharge through a plumbing fixture of 7.5 GPM is termed one fixture unit.

Fixture Units (Supply) – The measure of how much water a plumbing fixture needs for proper function. The plumbing valve used by a particular fixture and its function is based on the volume of water it uses on a single occasion and on the average time between operations.

Floor CleanoutsA readily accessible opening installed in the floor off of a horizontal waste line to accommodate drain cleaning equipment to remove potential blockages.

Floor DrainsAn opening in the floor used to drain potential liquid waste from the floors into the drainage system. Floor drains are most commonly seen in basements, core toilet rooms, janitor’s closets and mechanical rooms.

Floor Sinks – A receptor installed in a floor that receives drainage from indirect waste lines. Floor sinks are often glazed with porcelain or epoxy to inhibit bacterial growth and to make it easier to clean and maintain.

Flushometer Valve –  There are several different type of flushometer valves on the market the diaphragm type valve invented by William Sloan and the Sloan Valve Company in 1906 is the undisputed leader in Flush valve production and market use. However all flushometers are designed to do the same thing and that is to deliver a measured amount of water to a fixture to flush out waste, i.e. a water closet or urinal. Both a diaphragm and a piston type flush valve operate by using water pressure to actuate the valve.

Flux
(Plumbing) – Plumbers flux comes in the form of paste and it is brushed on copper or brass pipe and fittings to remove oxides and other coatings for the metals before joining. Oxides make soldering difficult. Upon heating the pipe/fittings and flux, the flux will clean and float away any oxides or particulates.

Friction (Water Piping) – It is the resistance between to objects in contact with one another. In a water piping system it is the friction that occurs between water and the walls of the piping. Water that comes in contact with the walls of the pipe actually moves slower than water in the center of the piping. We call that friction loss in the piping trades.

Friction Clamps/Riser Clamps – A friction or riser clamp is used in the plumbing and mechanical trades to support vertical piping at each floor. The hanger device is place around the piping and tightened with bolts which prevents the piping from slipping. Riser clamps have wings or ears that extend out from the pipe to span the opening in the floor to accommodate the piping being braced.

Riser Clamp

The Riser Clamp is one of the most used pipe hangers in construction.

Frost Proof Hose Bibbs or Sillcocks – A faucet that delivers water to locations (usually outside) for watering landscaping or grass, washing vehicles or general cleaning. When the hose bibb is designated as “Frost Proof” it is usually has an apparatus which allows ice to expand without damaging the unit or connected supply piping.

Futures (Vent, water and waste) – Futures in plumbing are fittings and or piping installed and capped to accommodate “future” plumbing expansions. i.e. an office building is being built and the owner is taking the entire space. However, at some point the owner may want to divide the building to accommodate possible tenants or expansion of existing office space. Futures would minimize the contruction to rehab, expand or reconfigure the existing plumbing systems.

Garabage Disposals – An electrically powered plumbing appliance installed on the outlet of a kitchen sink that is used to grind up leftover organic waste so it is easily rinsed away by LOTS OF WATER. Garbage disposal are manufactured in several different price points which include better build quality, sound deadening materials and features. Commercial versions are also available.

Gas Piping – The piping used to deliver propane or natural gas to a home and it’s gas powered appliances in the home i.e. stove, oven, and clothes dryer.

Gate Valves – The gate valve is typically operated by a wheel handle and that handle lifts and lowers a metal disc or wedge cutting off or opening the flow of water. A gate valve should not be used to throttle or regulate the flow of water. Gate valves are usually described as rising stem sometimes called an OS&Y (Outside Screw and Yoke) or non-rising stem.

Nibco OS&Y Valve

Nibco OS&Y Valve

OS&Y valves are used in situations were it is beneficial and sometimes safer to be able to see if the valve is in the open or closed position by seeing whether the stem is visible or fully seated.

Nibco Gate Valve Non Rising Stem

Nicbo Non Rising Stem Gate Valve

General Liability Insurance (GL Insurance) – A standard insurance policy issued to businesses but in this case plumbing and mechanical businesses to protect against liability claims generating from the operations the business performs this includes employee negligence. This is usually coupled with Workers Compensation Insurance to form a firms commercial insurance package.

G.P.M. – (Gallons Per Minute) A unit of measurement used by plumbing material manufacturers to convey performance or measure capacities of a fixture, water piping and or waste piping.

Gravity Sewers – All sewers work by by gravity. However this term is used by plumbers to describe a house drain which runs under the basement floor and receives the discharge from soil, waste and other drainage from pipes within the building. It is almost always used to describe a sewer when a home is affected by sewage backing up from the city sewer during extreme rain fall. The solution to a gravity sewer would be to run the sewer over head. (See Over Head Sewers)


Gray Water – is defined as water generated by sinks, showers, bathtubs and clothes washers. It does not contain waste water from water closets, urinals, kitchen sinks or waste from dishwashers.

Gray Water Waste Pipe System – Is the piping and storage system that collects waste water generated from hand sinks, showers, bathtubs and clothes washers. Because over 60% of all household water usage can be labelled as gray water systems have been developed to recycle this water and reuse. Graywater piping is purple in color so it will standout amongst other piping systems.

There are three separate steps in the graywater recycling process and they are as follows:

  • Collection –  Graywater and black water wastes systems are piped separately. The graywater is harvested is storage tanks.
  • Treatment – Depending on the use the waste water is filtered. There are a multitude of ways to implement the filtration process but the most common is using physical media.
  • Disinfection – The filtered graywater is disinfected using UV, chlorination or iodine or a combination of the aforementioned.

Grease Traps or Grease Separator – A device designed to cause separation and retention of oil and/or grease from liquid wastes. Grease separators are most commonly used in commercial kitchens, restaurants or apartment buildings. Periodic grease removal maintenance needs to be done in order to maintain performance levels.

Green Plumbing – Is any type of plumbing that promotes conservation of water and or electricity.

  • Gray Water
  • Low Consumption Plumbing Fixtures
  • Rain Water Harvesting
  • Solar Hot Water
  • Tankless or Self Condensing Hotwater
  • Waterless Urinals

Hair Separator or Hair Trap – these are installed on lavatories or sinks in beauty salons or barber shops and they catch link or hair from entering the waste piping. They are equipped with a removable basket that must be cleaned regularly to maintain proper flow. They also have a secondary purpose as they safeguard against losing jewelry if dropped down the drain.

Hand Held Shower with Slide Bar – A shower head that is attached to a flexible hose and can be moved up or down on a stationary slide bar or removed from a holder and used to rinse the hair and body. Originally designed as necessary item for the elderly and handicapped it has now become a premium upgrade in home showers.

Hand or Sink Auger – This is a coiled flexible cable that is contained inside a metal cannister and has a self feeding auger bit to dig through blockages in small diameter piping. The cannister is usually equipped with a handle and a knob so you can turn the rod cleaning the pipe of debris.See the  full sink auger definition.

Hard Water – Hard water is a condition caused by minerals dissolved in water. There are many minerals that can be dissolved in water but the primary are Calcium and Magnesium. 85% of the water in the U.S is considered hard water. Some of the symptoms a homeowner will experience if they have hard water will be spots on their dishware, rings around the bathtub, scale build-up on shower heads and aerators on sink faucets. Hard water also reacts with cleaning products and detergents reducing it’s effectiveness. Hard water treatment comes in several forms the most common is an ion exchange based water softener.

Head Pressure – It is the difference in elevation between two points of water expressed in weight of a given height of a column of water. The pressure at the bottom of the column of water is greater than at the top of the column and that pressure is independent of the volume of water present. For instance the “head pressure” of a column of water that is 15ft high in a 3″ pipe is the same as if the pipe were 3ft in diameter.

Heat Exchanger – A heat exchanger is an apparatus such as coiled copper or stainless steel tubing that is submerged in a tank of water. That coil is used to transfer the heat from the liquid in the tubing to the water in the tank by way of the metal surface.

Heat Traps – On water heaters a heat trap allows cold water to flow into the the heater but prevents hot water from flow out of the tank when not in use. Having heat traps provides energy cost savings by preventing heated water from escaping the tank so it doesn’t have to be brought up to temperature again.

Hoar Frost – In plumbing it is the frost that forms on vent stacks from water vapor coming in direct contact with air that is below freezing. The thought is that with continual sub freezing temperatures that layer upon layer of hoar frost can eventually close off vent stacks compromising the proper function of the waste system in a home or building.

Hose Bibbs or Sillcocks – A faucet that delivers water to locations (usually outside) for watering landscaping or grass, washing vehicles or general cleaning.

Hot Tap – The process of tapping into water main or water supply line while the line is still active and in use. The process was developed to minimize down time to other homeowners or building tenants during maintenance, rehab or new construction. The alternative to hot tapping or pressure tapping would be to shut down and drain down the affected section of piping so the work could be completed.

Hot Water Return Piping – Hot water return piping is piping connecting the end of a run of plumbing fixtures and/or appliances back to a hot water source i.e. a water heater or boiler. Most times a hot water return line is installed with a recirculating pump to insure hot water is always recirculating through the hot water supply piping. Keeping hot water recirculating through the line dramatically cuts down on the time it takes to get hot water to a fixture. The average family wastes 12,000 gallons per year waiting for hot water.

House Drain – The House Drain is the lowest part of the drainage system piping that receives all of the soil and waste discharge from other drainage piping within a home or building and discharges it to the house sewer that begins 5ft outside of the building.

House Pumps (Domestic Water Booster Pumps) Variable Frequency or constant speed. Uses in commercial and residential. Most plumbing fixtures and equipment need a minimum amount of water pressure to function properly, a house pump or booster pump takes incoming water and increases the pressure to accommodate the water demands of a private residence or a commercial building.

House Sewer – The part of the horizontal piping of a plumbing or drainage system that extends from the house drain to it’s connection with the main sewer or other place of sewage disposal. So the piping that connects the interior sewer to it’s connection to the municipal sewer.

House Trap – Although there are many homes that still have a house trap in use they are generally frowned upon. A house trap is a trap installed on the house drain to prevent sewer gases and vermin from entering a residence or commercial building. The biggest issues with house traps are that if the trap is ever compromised the entire building is susceptible to sewer gases.

Hub and Spigot Soil Pipe – Hub and spigot soil pipe is usually made of cast iron and is used in sanitary drain, waste and vent, sewer and storm drainage applications. The pipe and fittings have a bell on one end and are plain on the other. The plain end is inserted into the bell or spigot end and the joint is sealed using a rubber soil gasket or braided oakum and lead.

Hydraulic Pressure – The pressure applied by a liquid against an object. Most liquids cannot be compressed into a small area like air can. Therefore when a liquid is applying pressure to an object the liquid will find it’s way around the object or if need be through the object.

IAPMO Plumbing Code ( The International Association of Plumbing and Mechnical Offiicials) or UPC (Universal Plumbing Code) – This is the most update and accurate set of current plumbing practices, it is produced by plumbers and mechanical engineers. It includes installations for potable water, building water supply and distribution, waste drainage and vent piping, sewer mains and plumbing fixtures. It also defines material and code approved joining methods.

Ice Maker – A plumbing appurtenance that can be stand alone or part of a refrigerator and is used to make ice for beverages or for therapeutic uses. An ice maker needs both a water connection and a waste connection for the discharge of condensate waste.

Indirect Waste Pipe – Waste piping from a plumbing fixture or appurtenance  that isn’t connected directly to the waste drainage system of a home or building but instead it drains into the drainage system through an air gap and into a fixture, interceptor or receptacle like a floor sink which is properly trapped and vented.

Instantaneous Water Heaters – An instantaneous water can be broken down into the following two categories.

  • Point of Use – A point of use water heater is installed at or near a plumbing fixture or battery of fixtures and it used to service those fixtures alone. Their capacity to flash heat water is limited. They are mainly used in situations where it is too difficult to tie into and existing hot water source or a small bathroom or sink has been added and has a limited need for hot water.
  • Tankless Water Heaters – Both of these heaters are tankless however, when someone refers to a tankless water heater they usually mean a high capacity heater used to serve multiple locations in a home or business.

A tankless heater flash heats water on demand by pulling water through a heat exchanger. There is no hot water storage although one can be added if the application calls for additional capacity. Tankless heaters are generally thought of to be much more efficient than traditional tank type water heaters. However, real world use has clouded that belief.

International Plumbing Code or IPC – The International Plumbing Code was first adopted in 1995 and it was really a combined effort as representatives from BOCA, ICBO and the SBCCI were all used to produce an all inclusive set of rules and regulations based on existing model codes.

The IPC was established to set standards to adequately protect the public health and safety but not necessarily increase the cost of building and fabrication.

There are several states and municipalities that have adopted the IPC as their plumbing code. The IPC can be adopted internationally.

Invert – The lowest point of the inside of any type of horizontal waste, vent or water piping.

Invert Elevation – Closely associated with the above, the invert elevation is really the cornerstone elevation for the mechanical and in particular the plumbing trade. It is the lowest inside point of any pipe at a certain location. Knowing invert elevations are extremely important for laying out waste piping runs. Mistakes can cause mistakes ranging from sewer piping not having enough pitch to waste piping being removed because it is above the ground or hanging below a drop ceiling.

Iron Filter Tank – Any device that removes disolved or undissolved iron from potable drinking water. Some smaller units can be installed in line with your water main and need to be maintained by changing a removable media. There are also iron filters that can handle removing iron for the whole house using media that can be recharged relieving the homeowner of having to change the filter once a month. See Charger Water Treatment for their solutions on treating potable drinking water.

Island Vent – (See Loop Vent)

Isolation Valves – Any type of valve installed on the potable water system that isolates a section of a building, a battery of bathrooms or plumbing mechnical equipment i.e. a house pump. Isolation valves allow plumbers positively shut down the water supply to the aforementioned so work can be performed without shutting down the water supply to the entire building.

J-Hooks – J type hooks are used in just about every industry. In the plumbing industry they are made of plastic, steel or copper plated and come in different sizes to accommodate different sized pipe. They look like the letter “J” and are usually nailed or screwed into a wooden or steel joist to hang waster, vent and water piping.

Kitchen Sink Faucet with a Pull-Out Spray – Kitchen sink faucets are manufactured with or without a spray mechanism. In the last 20 years most of the faucet manufacturers have come out with kitchen faucets with a sprayer that pulls out from the spout. The spray head will have a function button that when depressed will switch the function between hard spray or aerated flow. Since their inception they have become extremely popular due to the fact that you don’t have to have a side spray taking up space on the faucet deck to have the same functionality.

Lavatories – See plumbing fixtures

Lead – A soft and extremely heavy metal was used in almost every aspect of the plumbing industry at one time or another. Most major cities in the US used water services made of lead piping because of its durability and malleability. Using lead for piping went out of favor in the 80’s due to fear of lead leeching. Until very recently lead was being used in trace amount for faucets, flush valves, hose bibbs etc., however stricter laws have made using lead illegal. There is one area where lead is used and it’s only in certain places around the country and that is for yarning and pouring joints on cast iron waste piping.

Lead Flashings – thin sheets of lead used to water proof vent stacks through the roof. A tube of lead is made slightly larger in diamter than the piping being flashed, that tube is welded on to flat piece of lead. The lead flashing is installed over the vent through roof increaser and the end of the lead is pounded down inside the piping. The roofing material is placed over the flashing and around the pipe and is sealed. Vent flashings are also made of rubber membrane.

Lead Pan – Lead pans have been used in plumbing  for a number of reasons. As a durable malleable material to use to water proof a shower or mop basin where stone or tile is being used as flooring, as a drain pan used to catch water from a water heater should it start to leak. You being with a flat piece of sheet lead

Lead Pick – This a tool that looks like an awl, with a metal tip bent at a 90° angle or like a hook, that is used while drilling out an old lead joint, to pick out the loose lead and oakum.

Lead Pot and Ladel – Used primarily to pour lead and oakum joints for waste and vent piping. A lead pot is made of cast iron and lots similar to a cooking pot. It is made to sit securely on top of furnace that attaches to plumbers propane tank. Lead is placed inside the lead pot and is heated until melted. A cast iron ladel is used to extact the molten lead from the pot so it can be poured into a hub. Molten lead does not stick to cast so it can be poured easily.

Lead Water Services – Lead was the material of choice for water services in all major municipalities until the end of the 1960’s. Because lead is malleable and utterly non-corrosive it was a go to for plumbers for the better part of a century. It wasn’t until we became aware of the harmful effects of lead poisoning that lead services were discontinued. The funny things about lead water services is that a hard scale barrier forms over the piping exposed to potable water so quickly that there is no measurable leeching however I suppose it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Liquid Waste – Any liquid discharge from a plumbing fixture that does not contain human or animal waste matter.

Loop Vent – Some times this is referred to as an island vent because if you do vent your island you’d use a loop vent. A island loop vent begins at the discharge from island sink using a sanitary tee. The vent rises up above the discharge of the drain then drops back down and connects back to the drainage system below the floor. A loop vent in a commercial application has a different meaning; it is a single vent pipe connected to the horizontal drainage piping that receives the discharge from one or more unvented fixtures. The single vent pipe rises above the overflow level of the highest unvented fixture and the single vent is connected back to the vent stack. Basically this is a way to vent a battery of fixtures using a single vent pipe.

Main Pipe – The central pipe line to which all other branches are connected. This covers all plumbing piping systems i.e. waste, vent and water piping.

Man Hole – A circular cover usually manufactured from cast iron that is part of a larger concrete structure used for easy excess to any number of below grade plumbing equipment. i.e. below ground valves, ejector or grinder pumps. A manhole can also be used as an access point for rodding and drain cleaning equipment on storm and sewer lines.

Mechanical Joints – definition, materials used, types of mechanical joints. Any type of pipe and fitting joining method that ensures a water tight seal using the following: gaskets, couplings, grooved fittings and couplings, nuts and bolts, etc. The following are examples of mechanical joints:

  • No-Hub Couplings
  • Mission Couplings
  • Victaulic Grooved Fittings and Couplings
  • Gruvlok Grooved Fittings and Couplings
  • Flanged Fittings using nuts, bolts and gasket kits.

Mechanics Lien – A form of legal protection afforded to contractors and suppliers obtained as collateral against unpaid bills. When enforced any real estate or property such as a home or commercial building can be sold to pay off past due bills. As a mechanical contractor you should always protect your lien rights. The time for filing an Intent to Lien is different from state to state but usually you have 90 days from the performance of work to file an Intent to Lien. Once that time passes you will be forced to litigate but your lien rights will expire.

Mini-Widespread Faucet – A style of lavatory faucet that has a separate spout and handles but fits on a lavatory with a 4″ spread and opposed to a widespread faucet which fits on a lavatory with an 8″ spread.

Mixing Valve – A plumbing valve that mixes hot and cold water and delivers them at a specific temperature.

Molded Stone – Molded stone is most commonly used for laundry tubs and it is really used to describe a fiberglass product impregnated with a calcium resin. It’s extremely durable while being low cost. Consumers may think the term molded stone is misleading however it’s a term that has been used in the plumbing industry for decades.

Mop Basins – See plumbing fixtures

National Plumbing Code – This is a standard code book for the plumbing industry that covers BOCA (Building Officials and Code Administrator International) and UPC codes highlighting specifications and best practices and procedures for installation and standard plumbing materials

Nipples -A short piece of pipe threaded on both ends used to join two threaded fittings.

No Hub Soil Pipe – A type of pipe normally made of cast iron, without hubs, joined with no hub couplings

Oakum:

  • White Oakum – ​Hemp fibers treated with bentonite a type of drilling mud that expands when exposed to liquids. It is the preferred oakum used in yarning and pouring cast iron hub and spigot joints because when water enters the joint it expands making the seal water tight.   ​​
  • Brown Oakum – ​Hemp fibers that have been treated with petroleum based pitch to make it water resistant. It is much more difficult to work with in hub and spigot joints because it doesn’t compact like white oakum.  ​​

Open Site Drain – ​A trap, fixture, drain or interceptor that receives waste from a plumbing fixture by way of an indirect connection through an air gap. This allows for a fixture to drain however, if the drain experiences a backup the waste will not back-up into the fixture itself. It will spill on to a floor so as not to contaminate the fixture. An example of a fixture that would use an open site drain would be kitchen prep sink. ​​

Organic – Any substance pertaining to something living. Substance must contain carbon.

Over Head Sewers – ​​​A sewer in a building or home that receives all waste and is piped in a basement ceiling. The sewer exits the building over head and then drops down outside the building to a municipal sewer. Although all sewers drain by gravity this differs from a gravity sewer in that all waste from a gravity sewer ​​​​​​runs underneath a basement floor and out of the building.

Overflow roof drains – See PlumbingMechanical Equipment

Pathogenic – Any material capable of causing disease or containing bacteria or viruses.

PCA (Plumbing Contractor Association) – ​The Plumbing Contractors Association of Chicagoland is one of the old trade association in the United States. It includes representation from both Labor Management and Contractors and promotes the highest standards of the plumbing craft and supports the training of plumbing tradesmen and apprentices. They also keep members up to date on the latest trends in the industry. ​​

Pex Plastic Water Piping and Fittings – PEX (cross linked polyethylene) is a type of flexible tubing used for potable water in homes and commercial buildings. PEX was originally used for radiant heating inside concrete floors. When PEX was first introduced there were numerous complaints that it deteriorated over time. It was discovered that the chlorine used to disinfect potable water attacked and slightly deteriorated the material. Since then improvements have been made to alleviate those issues.Currently PEX is approved for use all across the US for potable water. Because of PEX’s flexibility it is the choice for home improvement and DIYers. It’s easy to install and you don’t have to be perfect with your measurements. We call it garden hose in the wall because it isn’t a pretty install but it works and works well. Because of the improvements in PEX manifolds you can literally control water to every fixture in the house or building. Gone are the day of shutting the entire water down to fix one leaky lavatory or toilet.

PHCC – (Plumbing Heating Cooling Contractors Association) – In 1883 125 members formed the National Association of Master Plumbers (NAMP) which was the forerunner to the PHCC which was officially formed in 1962. Now the PHCC is comprised of 125 charter organizations encompassing 3,300 union and open shop businesses. The PHCC is dedicated to furthering education and professional excellence throughout the mechanical trades.

Pipe Condensation – ​Cold water lines attract moisture from the air just like a cold glass of water attracts moisture on a warm summer day. If enough condensation forms on the cold water piping it can drip down on to ceiling tiles, desks etc. causing damage. Cold water lines are frequently insulated to shield the piping from the air surrounding the piping. Insulation can also absorb any potential condensation preventing potential damage.

Pipe Insulation – Insulation made of foam or fiberglass that wraps around domestic water piping to eliminate condensation from forming and possibly dropping on ceilings or people below.

Pipe Labeling – Quite often In commercial buildings the building specifies that all piping must be identified with labels. This makes is easier for the building engineers or service contractors to identify what they are working on. Certain pipes have readily identifiable colors for instance Domestic Cold Water is printed on a green label with an arrow to denote flow direction, Domestic Hot Water is printed on a yellow label with an arrow to denote flow direction. Pipe labels are not exclusive to water piping. Waste, Vent and mechanical water piping are also labelled as well.

Plumbing Council of Chicagoland – The PCA and plumbing council were once two different organizations. The Plumbing Council was responsible for the collection of monies from the industry fund responsible for advertising the union plumbing industry in Chicago. The PCA is an entity comprised of signatory contractors that negotiate with the union for wage increases and education. Recently they have combined staffs and resources and work together for the common good of the industry.

Plumbing Fixtures – Gosh it’s tough for us to define this term because it’s so outdated. We’ll give it a shot, it’s a device, appliance or “appurtenance” that is hooked up or installed to the potable water system which makes the potable water available to flush liquids or liquid born wastes either directly or indirectly into the waste system.

Plumbing Mechanical Equipment
Some may disagree with how some of these are defined but for this site each of the following will be referred to as plumbing mechanical equipment:
Coffee Makers

Define boilers, types, uses
Water Heaters – (Please see Water Heaters here) No need to define it again. You can read all about it in the link

House or Booster Pumps – A house or booster pump is connected to the incoming domestic water line and raises the pressure of the water to the building. In a homes across the US the water pressure is too low to ensure proper function of the plumbing fixtures and equipment so a booster pump is installed. These can be simple or complex. Meaning there are pumps that you can turn on when extra demand is called for or they are automatic and turn on when extra demand is needed. In commercial (Hi-Rise) or industrial building the incoming water pressure can be adequate however because of the size and demand of the building the pressure will diminishes as it gets to the fixtures. The plumbing fixtures closest to the incoming water main will function fine but as you get further and further away from the source the water pressure goes down. The booster pump will ensure all fixtures and equipment have adequate pressure. These booster systems are usually designed by an engineer using specifications denoting how much water is needed.

Ice Maker – This is going to be real simple. It’s an appliance that turns potable water into ice for beverages or for therapeutic purposes. Ice makers come in many sizes and shapes but they can be divided into two basic types. Consumer versions that most commonly built into a refrigerator and commercial which is usually stand alone and produces high volumes of ice.

Plumbing Trap – A fitting placed in a drain line from a plumbing fixture for the purpose of holding water or other fluid to form a trap seal that prevents the passage of gases, odors or vermin from the drain pipe into the building.  Click on the link for a much more detailed account of Plumbing Traps

Plumbing Valve – is any valve used to regulate the flow of water in a potable or human waste water system.

Point of Use Water Heaters – A point of use water heater is usually of tankless design however some do hold some water. These heaters are made to be used for a single fixture or a battery of fixtures at a single location. Point of use water heaters are usually powered by electricity rather than gas.

Power Jetter – A power jetter takes water from a water supply either from a home, building or a self contained source and cranks up the pressure via a motor of some kind. The water pressure is further increased by the type of nozzle at the end of the jetter hose. Power jetters come in many different sizes and configurations. You can use small walk behind units that can double as power washers or they can be tow behind units that are much more powerful and can be used in a variety of applications or they literally be full trucks with their own water source. Each type of jetter has their place in the plumbing service space. For can find more on topic on my sewer rodding and jetting article.

Power Rodder – A rodder or auger consists of a tightly coiled steel cable (think of a very long, very strong spring) usually made in precut lengths or coiled in self contained canisters. instead of you doing the cranking to remove a blockage a motor either rotates the coil using jaws. These are usually used when a simple canister auger or tape auger won’t do the trick. They come in a variety of sizes and types mostly based on the type of job. Most service plumbing contractors have a variety of units at their disposal.

Pressure Assisted Toilets – When Sloan invented the Flushmate it was like a skies opened and we were given a gift from the plumbing Gods. Sloan’s engineers manufactured a pressurized tank to fit inside the toilet tank. As water enters the tank it pressurizes the air inside it and then a valve closes. Now you have a tank filled with pressurized water. When you engage the tank lever the air pushes the water into the bowl evacuating the contents. The Flushmate was the first product designed for pressure assisted toilets and it was used in many manufacturers pressure assisted line. Recently several companies have designed their own pressure assisted systems.

Priming a P-trap – If a trap of any kind isn’t used for some time the water that seals the trap can become foul or evaporate letting in unwanted sewer gas into a room or building. Priming the trap is the act of refilling the water in trap creating a trap seal.

PVC Plastic Pipe and Fittings – PVC plastic is formally known as Polyvinyl Chloride. It is strong, smooth and cost effective and it is code approved for waste and vent throughout the United States.

PVD Finishes – Stands for Physical Vapor Deposition, it is a metal plating process performed in vacuum chamber. The process allows metals to adhere to a base metal and is much more durable than traditional electo-plating. Most finishes produced by the major plumbing manufacturers are now PVD finishes and they are usually guaranteed for life.

Private Sewer – Any sewer that serves one or more buildings that is privately owned and is not directly controlled or maintained by a public entity.

Public Sewer – Any common sewer controlled and maintained by a city, county, state or federal government.

Radiant Heat – In plumbing or HVAC radiant heat is a closed loop system. flexible piping is run underneath the floor in concrete or through guides. The water or freeze proof liquid (depending on application) is warmed by a boiler or water heater. The heat radiates from below warming a room or melting the snow if used in drive way.

Rate of Flow – This is a term used to describe the volume of moving water as it related to a time period. The most common measurement used in plumbing is gallons per minute (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH).

Re-circulating Pump

Repair Flanges

Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration

Roll Groove

Roman Tub Filler
Roof Drain – a roof drain is a plumbing appurtenance installed on a building roof, inside a gutter or in a parapet wall to receive rain water. The water is routed to the building or structures downspout piping and discharged to a storm sewer or is allowed to splash on the ground. Please check your local plumbing codes to find out acceptable methods for the discharge of rain water.

Rough-in

RPZ (Reduced Pressure Zone)

Sand and Sediment Separators

Syphonic roof drains

Sanitary Sewer – A house drain or a house sewer designed and used to remove only sewage. Storm water need not apply. Believe it or not there are places around the country that separate the storm and sewage systems in a building only to let them combine outside the building to a combined sewer.

Septic Tank – A tank designed to receive raw sewage. Through aerobic and anaerobic bacterial action and sedimentation the sewage is allowed to break down. After a period of detention the remaining liquid is allowed to discharge into the soil.

Sewage – A combination of water carried wastes from a residence, business buildings, institutional and industrial buildings together with ground surface and storm water.

Sewer Camera and Locator

Shower Head

Slip Joint

Sloan Flush Mate

Sludge

Soaker Tub

Soft Water

Soil Pipe – Any piping which transports the discharges of one of more water closets or bedpan washers with or without the discharge from other fixtures to the house drain.

Solder

Solder Joints – types, uses (How To)

Spanner Flanges

Stand Pipe

Steam Generators

Steel Pipe and Fittings

Storm Piping

S-Traps

Sub-Soil Drain – The part of the drainage system which transports subsoil ground or seepage water to the house drain or house sewer. (Most times it’s called drain tile.)

Suds Zone

Sump Check Valves

Sump Pits

Sump Pumps

Sump Silent Check Valves

Suspended Solids – The solid waste material held afloat or suspended in the transport medium in this case it’s water.

Sustaining Hinge Check

Syphonic roof drains

T&P Valves – A relief valve used on tanks or vessels that is activated by too much temperature(T) or too much pressure (P)

Tempering Valves – A valve used to control temperature to a constant temperature. These valves are mechanical in nature meaning a temperature can be set with a set and locked in and won’t allow any more hot water through the valve. Hot and cold water flow is controlled by the internal ports.

Thermal Expansion – The expansion of water or material from heat

Thermostatic Mixing Valves – A pressure balanced valve used to control temperature of water based on both the hot and cold water supply temperatures and changes in water pressure. A valve that is pressure balanced only operates on just that….pressure

ToiletsA plumbing fixture designed to receive human excrement from the user of the fixture to the sanitary sewer system.

TrapA device for a plumbing drain, sewer, etc. consisting of a tubular bend in which a liquid settles a forms a seal preventing sewer gasses, vermin, stench from coming back into a building.

Trap Primers – A device used to prime a p-trap, preventing the evaporation of water form the trap

Trap Weir- The highest point of water held in a trap (either p-trap or s-trap) before it leaves the trap and drains

Trapeze Pipe Hanger

Two Hole Pipe Straps

Unistrut

United Association (UA)

Urinals – A plumbing fixture that is flushed by potable water that is designed to receive human urine, the discharge is disposed into the sanitary system.

UV Purification

Vacuum Breakers

Velocity – The rate of speed at which water moves through piping. It is measured in feet per second.

Valve Tags

Vent Increaser – Why they’re used. Controversy on their usefulness

Vent Piping

Vent Stack

Vibration Isolation

Vitreous China

Wafer Check Valve – A wafer style check valve is obviously a check valve that is used when space constraints won’t allow traditional check valves to be used. Some of the other benefits of using a wafer check is weight, this style of check doesn’t need as much support as it’s traditional full body counterpart.

A wafer valve is made using a thin disc that can be fastened in the center or the top or can be spring loaded in the center.

This valve is meant to placed between two flanged fittings and secured between the two fittings with all thread rod. The valve is notched in the same positions as the bolt pattern of the flanges so the rod can pass by the valve. The valve is secured at both ends by the flanges.

Walk-In Shower

Washing Machine Boxes

Waste Piping

Waste Stack

Water Hammer

Water Hammer Arrestors

Water Heaters

Water Meters

Water Piping

Water Risers

Water Service

Water Softners

Wet Vent

Workmen’s Compensation Insurance

Yard Hydrants

Yarning and Packing Irons

Sand and Sediment Separators

Syphonic roof drains

Thermostatic Mixing Valves

Thermostatic Mixing Valves

This post first appeared on http://www.theplumbinginfo.com

How and Why You Need to Maintain Your Storm Drainage System

Storm drains provide a useful service by functioning as a drainage system. They direct excess water away and into a sewer system when it rains, to keep your yard, roads, and other areas from flooding.

Where Are Storm Drains Installed?

Storm drains can refer to the yard drains you have around your home, as well as the grated and open curb drains you see at crosswalks, street corners, or other such places. If you have an in-ground pool, you will have storm drains to help keep the pool from overflowing.

What Are Storm Drains Used For?

A closeup of a yard drain in a green grass field.

Storm drains collect excess freshwater and move it through a sewer system to a location where it will help prevent flooding. In some cities, they have water collection basins that are connected to storm drainage systems. These basins might be empty during dry spells, but, when it rains for several days, they can start to fill up.

Around your home, you can have storm drains installed to drain away the water that is collected in your gutters and downspouts. This is to prevent water from pooling and flooding next to the foundation of your home. This type of storm drain system directs the water away from the home out into the yard. Sometimes, it can also be connected to the city storm drain system.

How Does a Storm Drainage System Work?

The concept and structure of a storm drainage system are fairly simple. There is a drain pipe connected to another pipe, called the termination pipe, that routes water away from the location where it enters the storm drain.

Some storm drains have grated or mesh covers to prevent larger objects from getting into the system. Other storm drains do not have any covers, which can allow leaves, trash, waste, and other debris to get into the system.

The drainage system can flow into reservoirs, rivers, streams, lakes, or reclamation facilities. For example, some cities collect all storm drain water and use it to water public parks and flowers. This water is not safe to drink or play in because it is not treated water.

In cases where the drain water is directed into another fresh body of water, there can be potential environmental and pollution issues. If you have ever seen trash, tires, toys, and other waste in a local river or lake, chances are it got there from an uncovered storm drain system.

What Causes Storm Drains to Clog?

One of the most common causes of storm drain clogs is from natural debris. Leaves, branches, twigs, grass clippings, sand, dirt, rocks, and leaves can all get trapped on top of drains in screens and grates. If they are not removed, the drainage of water can be completely stopped. If this occurs, then the drain water will start to rise and flood the area since it cannot go down the drain.

Clogged canal through autumn leaves on the streets

Another cause for clogged drains is when excessively large objects get into the drainage system. With uncovered drains, it is easier for large objects to get into the system. However, there can be other grates and screens underground that also work to filter out debris. If these are blocked by larger objects, they can cause a backup of drain water, especially during heavy downpours.

Furthermore, plastic bags, fast food containers, plastic bottles, food, aluminum cans, cardboard containers, and other such waste materials can create clogs in storm drains. Many of these items are not biodegradable and slowly accumulate in the system over time.

Additionally, tree roots can cause storm drain clogs. Tree roots can grow through certain types of drain pipes to reach the water they need. Initially, the tree roots are not that big. Over the years, as the tree grows, the roots also grow bigger. Eventually, the roots can become so big, it can block the drainage pipe completely.

How to Help Keep Trash and Waste Out of Storm Drains

It is important to do what you can around your home or business to prevent trash and other waste from getting into city storm drains. Some of the more common things you can do include:

  • Always keep a lid on trash cans and recycling bins.
  • Pick up any loose trash you notice in your yard or the side of the road near your home or business.
  • Volunteer to clean up trash alongside city streets.
  • Avoid using pesticides and fertilizers on your yard and plants.
  • Collect grass clippings for a compost pile instead of blowing them out into the street.
  • Never rake leaves into the street, unless your city has a leaf collection program and it is okay to do so.
  • Never leave pet waste lying around, as it contains harmful bacteria.
  • Never pour oil, antifreeze, and other such fluids into storm drains.

What Maintenance Needs to Be Done to Storm Drain Systems

Just like other plumbing systems, storm drains do require regular drain service maintenance. The type of maintenance that needs to be performed will vary based on the location and type of storm drain system.

Home Storm Drainage System Maintenance

To prevent clogged storm drains around your home, you should get into the habit of doing the following preventative maintenance:

  • Inspect drain covers weekly for debris and clean covers if needed.
  • If you notice a cover is broken or has come off, have it repaired or replaced.
  • If your home has gutters and downspouts, clean the gutter in the fall and in the spring to keep smaller-sized twigs and leaves from getting into the system.
  • Install screen covers over gutters to keep out leaves and prevent clogs.

Once a year, perform storm drain service yourself or by calling your local plumbing company. Storm drain service requires to do a detailed cleaning of the drainage system by doing the following:

  • Remove drain covers. You may need to hunt around for these if you haven’t been doing your regular preventative maintenance. Once you locate them, remove any debris from the screens or grates before taking the covers off.
  • Clean out any excess debris inside the drain pipes. Remove as much debris as you can by simply reaching into the pipe and pulling it out. You can also use a shop vac to help suck up the debris since it can be used for both wet and dry debris.
  • Inspect where the sewer drain terminates. The termination location will vary whether your system drains into the yard or is connected to your city’s sewer system. If your system drains into the yard, look for drainage caps. These caps only open when water is flowing out of them, so you will need to carefully remove them and check for debris in the pipes.
  • Flush the drain pipes. Once all the drain covers and termination covers have been removed, you need to flush out the entire system. Take a garden hose and insert it into the first storm drain entrance. Turn the water on and check the termination side to see if the water is flowing out. Wait until the water flows clearly and there is no more debris coming out the termination pipe. Repeat the process for each storm drain.
  • Replace the storm drain and termination covers. After you have flushed the system, reinstall the covers.

If you notice there is a clogged drain, and water is not flowing as fast as it should out the termination pipe, you will need to call your plumber for water jetting or other drain cleaning services to remove the clog.

City Storm Drainage System Maintenance

worker with cleaning truck pumps out the dredging drain tunnel cleaning sewage

Most cities will take care of their own storm drain system maintenance. However, there are things you can do too. You can make sure that any drain covers next to your home or business are not clogged with debris.

You can also pick up leaves, branches, and other debris that accumulate in front of storm drains on street curbs to help keep the drains clear. If you notice a city storm drain is backing up, call your local city’s water management office and notify them of the problem.

Storm drains provide a valuable service by directing excess rainwater away from homes and businesses. They also keep streets from flooding. By taking the time to perform regular storm drain maintenance around your home or business, you can help avoid clogged drains and other storm drain system problems.

The post How and Why You Need to Maintain Your Storm Drainage System appeared first on Met Plumbing.

What To Know About Leaky Pipes

Pipes that leak are a danger to your home and family. Leaky pipes can stem from a number of issues that, if not remedied quickly, can cause serious problems within the house. If you want to protect your household and belongings from harm, it is important that you keep your pipes and other plumbing pieces in working order.

Here is what you need to know about leaky pipes:

Common Causes of Leaky Pipes

Deterioration & Shifting

Fixtures within the household are bound to get used and worn over time. Pipes, drainage, and other parts of the plumbing system will even begin to breakdown—and that can cause rusting and leaking from multiple locations. While the dripping might only be once or twice per minute, that can add up in the long run and damage the surrounding areas.

Temperature

Hot and cold changes in the pipeline can cause cracking and bursting in the pipes, especially when the outside temperature fluctuates. Any frozen water can expand the pipes and even lead to bursts. During the summer, you might find that there is leaking that wasn’t there the previous year.

Clogging

With plumbing comes clogging—it’s just the natural way of things—especially when things like hair, grease, soap, and other objects are being shuttled into the pipes. Once a clog begins to form, drains and sinks are going to drain much more slowly. This might cause water to leak out of joints in the plumbing.

Water Pressure

If plumbing is not installed correctly, or the pressure in the pipes is not regulated, this can cause cracking and breaks in the line. You should have a pressure regulated installed to keep pressure even.

Poor Workmanship

Although it is less common to have a plumb piece together your pipes poorly, sometimes those who have DIYed their plumbing will find more leaking than usual. Most of the time, leaks are caused by improperly secured joints, loose fittings, inappropriate materials, and so on.

Leaky Pipe Problems

Even the smallest of cracks can become a serious plumbing problem, so keep your eyes open and do routine maintenance. If you don’t know what to look for, then you should hire a professional plumber to inspect your home for any damages.

Remember, leaky pipes can cause a number of problems within the household. If leaks are not found quickly, the water can pool or seep into the woodwork. This can result in mold, warping, stained walls, flooding, and other issues that can be rather expensive to repair. Even if it seems inconvenient to deal with the leaky pipe right now, keep in mind how much money you could be losing by letting it continue on.

As soon as you notice issues like stains on walls from water damage or still water in the basement, call a plumber to resolve the issue. Don’t wait.

Do you have questions about leaky pipes? Found a broken pipe and need repairs? Need more advice on what to do? Call our team to learn more or schedule an appointment.

The post What To Know About Leaky Pipes appeared first on The Irish Plumber.

Early Warning Signs of a Clogged Dishwasher

Nothing is more concerning than when a household appliance is not working properly, especially when you have a heap of other responsibilities to tackle. One example is a malfunctioning dishwasher. Since dishwashers are connected to the kitchen sink, and therefore, the plumbing system, it can be affected by problems both within the water line and drainage, as well as be the cause of many problems.

If your dishwasher is misbehaving, you need to figure out the cause sooner than later. Any plumbing issues underlying the problems could wind up causing a lot of damage if disregarded for too long.

Here are some early warning signs that a dishwasher is clogged and in need of repairs:

Gurgling

Dishwashers make noise, but if you hear an unusual gurgling, bubbling, rumbling, or squealing, it should cause concern. Usually, these noises are caused when there is a clog in the waterline, pressure is building, and the water is attempting to escape past the roadblock. Since clogs occur in both main sewer lines and secondary water lines, you will need a plumber to diagnose the problem and help provide a solution.

Slow Draining

Whenever your dishwasher or kitchen sink drains slowly, it is a sign that there is a clog in the sewer line connected to the kitchen. You will want to seek assistance as soon as you can, because this can lead to clogs in the dishwasher itself, which is far more costly to repair.

Leftover Water

Has water pooled in the bottom of the dishwasher? Water resting on the bottom is a sign that the dishwasher is not draining correctly. If you have a troubleshooting guide with the dishwasher, you may be able to get an answer. Otherwise, it is best to contact a plumber, since they can figure out what is wrong.

Backed Up Water

When you run the dishwasher, do you notice any water leaking out into the kitchen sink, such as coming up through the drain? Water backup is dangerous, since it can lead to flooding. Act immediately. Shut off the dishwasher and, if you have one, run the garbage disposal. Make sure there is no food or other debris trapped within the kitchen’s drain line. If the backup continues, you will need to contact a plumber immediately.

Uncleaned Dishes and Cups

Similar to gurgling, if you run the dishwasher but the dishes are not cleaned by the end of the cycle, it proves that not enough water was coming through the lines. This indicates a potential clog in either the main or secondary lines leading to the appliance.

Your dishwasher needs to be functioning properly in order to not only drain correctly but to also do its job. If you find that your dishwasher is lagging, making weird sounds, or is draining incorrectly, you should hire a professional plumber to help repair the issues.

The post Early Warning Signs of a Clogged Dishwasher appeared first on The Irish Plumber.

5 Tips to Help You Avoid Plumbing Repairs on Thanksgiving

5 Tips to Help You Avoid Plumbing Repairs on Thanksgiving

November 6, 2019

plumbing, happy thanksgiving, emergency plumber

Plumbing repairs  are a big topic around Thanksgiving, and our plumbers can help prevent costly plumbing repairs.  The day after Thanksgiving is one of the busiest days for plumbing repairs of the year. This has to do with the extra use of plumbing including more use of the kitchen sink, dishwasher, and garbage disposal in preparation for the big meal.

Many times the bathrooms get more use too because family and friends are in the home. All of this extra use can put a strain on your plumbing and require costly repairs. We have put together five tips for this post on how to avoid these costly plumbing repairs.

  1. Dispose grease and oil in a container (like a coffee can) and throw it in the garbage.  Grease and oil solidifies when it cools in the drain and causes a nasty clog. For more info, please read the article on how to dispose cooking oil.
  2. Be careful of the things you put in your garbage disposal. Things like potatoes and green beans can be fibrous enough to cause a jammed garbage disposal. It is a good idea to keep a strainer, or plug over the garbage disposal when not in use. This will prevent silverware from getting lodged in it. Another good idea is to not put food into the disposal until it is turned on. This will also prevent jamming.
  3. Keep small objects in bathroom out of a child’s reach. Clogs can happen in a bathroom due to children dropping things in sinks and toilets. Just think of how many things one unattended child could put in a drain in under a minute. For example: Q-tips, cotton balls, hair spray caps, wash clothes etc.
  4. If relatives are staying at your home it might be a good idea to put a strainer over the drain in your shower. With more people using a shower the chance of a hair clog in the drain is increased. You can avoid a clog by using a strainer that prevents hair from entering the drain.
  5. Make sure dishes are partially clean before running the dishwasher. Food particles, oil, and grease can clog your dishwasher drain just like any other drain. Scrape dishes in the garbage, or garbage disposal and give a quick rinse before putting in the dishwasher. If you are left with a dishwasher full of water after the cycle you can be pretty sure the drain is clogged.

Additional resources for Miami Plumbers

Trending Topics Right Now

Aaron Atkins

Delivering exceptional customer service is first and foremost, but, when he is not focused on supplying your home or business with the highest level of customer support, Aaron prefers to lace up the running shoes and pound pavement for hours on end. Originally hailing from the snowbelt of Pennsylvania, Aaron currently resides in sunny South Florida with his wife and three children.

This post first appeared on http://www.atozstatewideplumbing.com

When Are Backflow Testing Plumbing Services Needed?

Anytime you are building a new home or updating the plumbing in your existing home, backflow testing plumbing services should be used. These services test to verify the flow of water only flows in a single direction.

When the water and sewage system in your home is working correctly, water comes into the home from the main water supply. From there it branches with cold water lines running to the bathrooms, laundry room, and kitchen.

One cold water line runs to your water heater and then branches on the output side of the water heater. Hot water lines are run to bathrooms, the laundry room, and the kitchen. When you turn on the hot or cold water or a combination thereof, it flows out and then eventually runs down the drain.

Each drain line consists of a series of pipes inside the walls of your home that are connected to your home’s main sewer line. The main sewer line is connected to your septic tank or your city’s sewer system.

At various connections in the water and sewer plumbing system, there should be backflow preventers installed. These devices stop water, wastewater, and raw sewage from flowing backward.

Red and blue water lines with backflow preventer

The purpose of backflow preventers is to stop water from running backward. While we would assume water would always flow in one direction into and out of the home, this is not always the case.

Water flows in one direction into the home due to pressure. If there is a change in pressure, water can flow backward and out of the home. With freshwater systems, this may not seem like a big concern. Yet, there would certainly be a concern if raw sewage were to backflow into the home and then backflow into freshwater supply lines and out of the home. That would contaminate the freshwater supply.

To illustrate, if you have ever experienced raw sewage coming up the drain lines in your home due to a break in the sewer line, it was because your home did not have backflow preventers installed in the right locations. When the pressure was deceased, the wastewater and sewage coming out of the home no longer had enough pressure to keep it moving in one direction.

How Do I Know if My Home Has Backflow Preventers?

The easiest way to find out if your home has backflow preventers is to schedule an inspection and testing from an experienced plumber. Your plumber uses various tools and equipment to find out if you have backflow preventers installed.

Professional plumber doing reparation in kitchen home

In addition, they will review your entire plumbing system to evaluate if the backflow preventers are installed in the right locations; if they are not, they will not work right. You could still end up with water flowing back into the home.

Besides getting backflow testing when building a new home or installing new plumbing lines, it is also highly recommended to get backflow testing performed annually. Doing so helps identify potential problems and fix them before they become a major headache—like waking up to raw sewage coming up the shower drain.

To learn more about backflow testing for your Katy or Greater Houston Area home, please feel free to contact MET Plumbing & Air Conditioning at 281-994-6698 today! We also offer drain cleaning, plumbing repair, installation, and maintenance services, as well as HVAC services.

The post When Are Backflow Testing Plumbing Services Needed? appeared first on Met Plumbing.

+1-877-959-3534