Month: March 2020

Are you looking for emergency plumbing in Peoria, AZ? We hope you came to this blog post before the plumbing disaster struck, and you’re doing prep work to have a plumber’s number handy whenever you do have an emergency problem. And that means you’re already thinking right: when it comes to handling plumbing repairs in a house, whether an emergency or not, you only want trained professionals to handle the service—like the plumbers on our team. We named ourselves The Trusted Plumber for a good reason.

We want to go into more detail about why the professional, rather than the amateur, is helpful when it comes to emergencies.

Experience means better decision-making

In other words, training means a cooler head in frenzied situations. You probably know the feeling of having to make choices during a crunch, when you’re under pressure to get a job done right. No wiggle room for errors. The more experience you have with that type of situation, the more you know about your job, the more likely you are to make good choices with a cool head. That’s critical for a plumber who is facing an emergency problem in a house. The professional has dealt with trouble like this before, knows the options, and can make the best decision in a short time.

Professionals carry better tools and know how to use them

People have a basic concept of the tools plumbers use. But this is only a portion of the tools the modern professional uses. Plumbing technology has made big advances over the years, and the up-to-date pro has fantastic equipment that can take care of emergencies in a shorter period. Just basic diagnostic tools cut down on the guesswork. Although an amateur may invest in a few of these tools, that’s no guarantee they’ll know how to operate them correctly.

Professional repairs stay repaired

Here is an unpleasant fact that any experienced professional plumber can tell you: a large number of the repairs they perform are due to bad early repairs an amateur did. A stop-gap solution may dam up a big leak, but it needs to have a long-term solution follow it up. But amateurs and DIY enthusiasts rarely go past the patch-fix, leading to trouble later. Unfortunately, if you aren’t the original owner of your home, you may have these sloppy fix-it jobs hidden in the plumbing. Always call a professional for the emergency repair that will stay fixed.

Professional plumbers are insured

This is one of big “on-paper” facts about professionals that makes them different from amateurs. Professional plumbers must have a minimum amount of workers compensation insurance and damage insurance to receive a license from the state. This insurance protects you from liability in case of a plumber suffering an injury on the job or causing damage to your home. These are possibilities in an emergency, so please go the safe route and call on a licensed plumbing contractor.

We are your one-stop-shop for any plumbing service you need. We are trained and insured (License# ROC 276768) and have emergency service available.

The Trusted Plumber serves Glendale, AZ and the surrounding areas. Schedule service with us today.

This post first appeared on https://www.thetrustedplumber.com

Your air conditioner keeps your home comfortably cool in the spring. This is the season when the weather starts warming up. The rising temperatures in springtime compels you to you start using your AC unit again. However, your air conditioner has been sitting dormant for months and probably needs a tune-up. Here are four tips to help you get your air conditioning in Pittsburgh, PA, ready for spring.

Clean Dirt and Debris

In fall and winter, your air conditioner doesn’t get much use. This lax treatment of your AC leads to a major buildup of dirt and debris. One of the first things you should do is thoroughly clean your air conditioner of leaves, dirt, dust, and other types of debris from the outside of the AC unit, then carefully examine and clean the inside. Pay special attention to the air ducts. Your AC unit recycles air from the air ducts, and any dirt and debris left in there will be circulated through your home.

Keep an eye out for bugs and other pests that might have made a home around or inside your AC. And don’t forget to clear overgrowth from plants or trees, trash buildup, and other debris from around the unit. There should be at least two feet of clearance around the entire AC unit. If you’re having a hard time cleaning your air conditioner, you can hire a technician from a reputable AC service to help you. A clean air conditioner will run smoother, reduce allergens, and enhance air quality.

Do a Trial Run

Once you’re done cleaning your unit, the best thing to do next is give your air conditioning a test run. Let the unit run between 30 minutes to one hour. While the AC is running, examine how the unit is working inside and outside of your home. Take note of any weird noises and if any part looks amiss. Have an expert from a reliable air conditioning repair service fix any issues and replace broken or worn parts right away. Doing maintenance on your air conditioning sooner rather than later will increase your unit’s efficiency and longevity.

Change the Filter

Regularly changing the filter in your air conditioner is extremely important, especially in southern cities like Pittsburgh. A worn filter lets particles seep through the air conditioner into the home. This can cause allergies to flare up and even damage the AC unit. Spring is the ideal time to change the filter in your air conditioner. The air quality in your home will improve, and the AC unit will work better.

Schedule Preventative Maintenance

Scheduling a preventative maintenance session with an AC repair technician will ensure that your air conditioner will work throughout the spring and summer months. A trained technician can identify potential issues like leaks, broken or worn parts, clogs, etc. and make repairs before these problems cause major damage to your AC unit.

Your air conditioner is one of the most important systems used during spring and summer. Getting air conditioning service in Pittsburgh, PA, done early in spring will prevent your unit from breaking down later on when the weather gets extremely hot. Instead of worrying about your AC failing, you will be able to enjoy a cool, comfortable home all spring and summer long.

Stahl Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning in Pittsburgh, PA, has more tips to help you get your AC unit spring-ready. Email us at [email protected] or call us at 412-273-1000.

 

The post Tips for Getting Your AC Unit Spring-Ready appeared first on Stahl Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning.

Buying your first home is a fun and exciting process, from viewing multiple homes to narrowing your search to the perfect first home. It is easy to get caught up in the excitement of shopping for a home to overlook things that could lead to headaches later.

A plumbing and HVAC system inspection are highly recommended once you have found the home you want to purchase. It is a good idea to have your realtor or real estate lawyer include a clause in your purchase offer that states something to the effect of:

“If, after inspection of the plumbing and HVAC systems in the home, it is discovered they require repair/replacement, then the seller will be responsible for all repair/replacement costs or, if the buyer pays for the repairs/replacement, the total amount will be deducted from the purchase price of the home.”

You can also do some initial legwork by asking specific questions about the HVAC system as follows:

1. What type of HVAC system is installed?

It could be a self-contained outdoor HVAC system, a split-system, a heat pump, or a stand-alone furnace with individual AC units in each room.

2. Where does the ductwork run in the home?

In some homes it is in the floors, in others the walls, and in others the ceiling. Look to see where the register vents are located.

3. What type of ductwork is installed?

The type of ductwork installed is an important question to ask. Some homes can have metal ductwork, while others have plastic-wrapped tube-like ductwork.

4. How often does the homeowner change the air filter?

Not all homeowners are great at remembering to change their air filters every two to three months. Some let them get so clogged that it strains the HVAC system, which shortens its expected lifespan.

5. Does the homeowner have accurate HVAC maintenance and service records?

You need to know how often the system was serviced, what work was performed, and who did the work.

6. How old is the HVAC system?

Keep in mind, with a split-system, the AC and furnace may be different ages if they were installed separately.

7. What are the SEER and AFUE ratings of the system?

Both ratings tell you the energy efficiency of the HVAC system. AC units will have a SEER rating, while furnaces will have an AFUE rating.

8. How much are the heating and cooling costs?

Ask the homeowner to provide at least two years of heating and cooling bills so you can determine the average utility costs. Bills that seem to increase one year over the next could indicate a few different things:

1. The system is wearing out and not as efficient.
2. Energy costs increased.
3. The home is not sufficiently insulated AND either 1 or 2 or both.

9. Is the HVAC system under any warranty?

The HVAC system may still be under the manufacturer’s warranty. The homeowner may also have purchased an extended warranty, which may be transferrable.

Other Things to Check

1. Turn on the furnace and air conditioning to see how loud it is. You need to know if the system sounds like it is running okay and not excessively loud.
2. Check the air filter. Even if the homeowner just changed the filter, still check it. If it looks dirty, this could indicate a dust problem, which could be caused by air leaks in the ductwork.

Last, have your plumbing and AC technician do an inspection of the plumbing and HVAC systems in the home you are interested in purchasing. Getting a second opinion now before closing can give you peace of mind.

To schedule a plumbing and HVAC inspection in Katy, Cypress, and surrounding communities in the Greater Houston Area, please feel free to contact MET Plumbing & Air Conditioning at 281-994-6698 today!

The post The Top 9 HVAC System Questions First-Time Homebuyers Need to Ask appeared first on Met Plumbing.

Plumbing is never as simple as it looks, especially when you are doing it as part of your kitchen or bathroom remodeling project. The reason plumbing gets difficult for many DIYers is the presence of codes. If you don’t follow the rules or codes, then problems are bound to occur.

 

Every country and provinces has its own form of building and plumbing codes. These codes exist to protect people and their residences. As long as you follow the codes, any plumbing job should be of ideal quality, thus ensuring a safe environment. Other codes protect the consumer. However, they are all important.

 

Let’s have a look at some Canadian plumbing codes

 

Ontario Building Code: Plumbing and Drainage Systems

Before we get into very specific codes for plumbing, let’s have a look at what building codes from Ontario start about plumbing.

 

Firstly, section 3.7.4.1. of the Ontario Building Code states that any building that abuts with a street where “a public or municipal water main is located shall be provided with or have accessible to its occupants a plumbing system.” The plumbing system includes drinkable (potable) water, plumbing fixtures, and a sanitary drainage system.

 

If a sanitary drainage system cannot be provided due to the absence of sanitary facilities, water supply, chemicals, or other means, then disposal of waste is provided.

 

Lastly, plumbing fixtures do not need to be provided in buildings that are not usually inhabited by people or where such fixtures would be considered impractical.

 

Core Codes

Common plumbing codes are ones that focus on venting, one of the overlooked elements of decent plumbing. When drain pipes are not vented correctly, fluids will drain sluggishly, and toxic fumes may be released into the house.

 

Here are some of the core codes to keep in mind:

 

• Plumbing fixtures are not be placed on top of one another or packed too closely. This is especially important in the bathroom, where space is not always largely available.
• Determine correct piping materials. Most inspectors accept copper piping for supply lines, while drain lines should be PVC.
• Determine the correct sizing for supply lines, drains, and vents.
• To get enough water pressure, you should replace an existing globe shutoff valve with a gate valve or full-bore ball. These two options do not impede water’s flow. If there is not enough pressure, you may require a booster pump. High water pressure requires a pressure-reducing valve instead.
• Installing plumbing must never weaken the internal structure of the house. Inspectors may require you to reinforce any joints that were cut to accommodate the installation of pipes. Other requirements including placing protective places over some pipes and caulking around pipes.
• Water hammer arresters may be needed for certain appliances. Supply lines sometimes need to be cushioned when they run through or near a framing member.

 

Aside from the above mentioned essential codes, there are some standard codes that are expected anywhere you go. For example, one code discusses that correct slope of drain pipes. It states that drain pipes must have at least a ¼ inch per running foot slope.

 

Another code mentions that, in order for inspectors to see which pipes have been primed or not, plumbers and DIYers are required to use purple primer.

 

Other codes make inspection and repairs much more easy to accomplish. For instance, the installation of cleanouts. Code dictates that cleanouts are needed at various places along pipes so that they can be easily cleaned and augered in the event of a leak or clog. Furthermore, cleanouts, compression pipes, fixture controls, and valves cannot be covered completely by flooring or walls, because you may need to work on them in the future. If necessary, access panels should be installed.

 

Important Plumbing Codes

Most codes set forth by the National Plumbing Code of Canada look at things like drainage fixtures, potable water, traps, and venting. Again, most of the “codes” are merely standards that ensure quality.

 

Here are some of the main points for potable water:

 

• Thermal expansion tanks are not always required. If you want to check if you need one, seek out if your plumbing system has a check valve, PRV, or a backflow preventer.
• Hot water tanks all require a vacuum breaker.
• Storage type hot water tanks need a drain pan that is a minimum of 50 mm (2 inches) in diameter wider than the tank’s width. The drain pain side walls must also be around 25 mm (1 inch) tall.
• The highest PSI someone is allowed to have for the water pipes in their home is 550 kPa or 80 PSI. If incoming pressure is more than that, the house will require a PRV to be installed.

 

Next, let’s have a look at codes about fixture drains. According to the National Plumbing Code of Canada, a fixture drain is a pipe connecting to a trap that serves a fixture to another section of the drainage system.

 

The standard lengths for running a fixture drain to another section of the drainage system are:

 

• 6 feet for 1.5 inch piping
• 8 feet for 2.0 inch piping
• 12 feet for 3.0 inch piping

 

For water closets and similar, the fixture drain can be 10 feet (regardless of 3-4 inch piping).

 

What about traps? Do vents require traps and vice versa? The short answer is yes. Both dry and wet vents need traps. However, not even fixture requires a trap. There are some situations where floor drains can share traps. Also, indirectly connected fixtures do not need traps.

 

Conclusion

There are many plumbing codes around that can help you or a plumbing contractor do the job correctly. Knowing what plumbing codes are and how they can affect you, or what they are meant to do, ensures that projects are done properly. After all, one mistake is more than just costly—it can be a health concern or cause damage to your home!

The post Beginner’s Guide to Plumbing Codes appeared first on The Irish Plumber.

Even if you have a plumbing contractor you use to take care of plumbing problems around your home, there are must-have plumbing tools every home still needs. You never know when something can go wrong. Having access to these tools can make a world of difference, from a flooded room to keeping things under control until help can arrive.

1. Plungers

Plungers can help you remove clogs and resolve problems with slow draining drains. There are two general types of plungers you should have.

The first is a toilet plunger with a flanged head that sticks out and inserts into the toilet drain. The second is a toilet plunger with a cup head that is perfect for use on sinks, bathtubs, and showers where the flanged head won’t fit into the drain.

2. Plumber’s Wrench

This type of wrench is adjustable and has a long handle with a swivel-like adjustable clamping head. It is a good tool to use to tighten up loose nuts on drainpipes when they are leaking, to slow or stop the leak until your plumber can come out to inspect the problem.

3. Adjustable Pliers

You should have two different sizes of adjustable pliers. They are great for holding things in place while you tighten them. They also work well if you need to grab, twist, or pull on something.

4. Needle Nose Pliers

This style of pliers has narrow but long tips that are perfect for reaching into tight places. They work just like other pliers and can make accessing small openings and gaps much easier.

5. Drain Snakes

These are short auger-type tools that are perfect for removing hair and other debris from clogged drains. They are meant to be used to remove clogs in the first few feet of the drainpipe.

6. Pipe Augers

There are two general types of pipe augers. There is a special one just for toilets and the other is for your other drains. Pipe augers are turned by hand and can help remove clogs from clogged drains and clogged toilets when a plunger doesn’t do the trick.

7. Adjustable Wrench

You should have a few different sizes of adjustable wrenches since pipe fittings and nuts come in a wide range of sizes. These are lighter than plumber’s wrenches and may fit into spaces where a plumber’s wrench will not.

8. Plumber’s Tape

You should have a least one spool of plumber’s tape in your toolbox. This plastic “tape” is made from Teflon. It is wrapped over pipe threads and helps create a good seal between pipe fittings.

9. Hacksaw/Pipe Cutter

Having a hacksaw on hand is great if you are an avid DIYer. With a hacksaw, you can cut PVC pipes to size. You can even swap out the plastic cutting blade from one that will cut through copper.

An alternative tool you may also want to have is a pipe cutter. This tool is perfect for cutting PVC and plastic pipes. You just put it on the pipe where you want to cut it and move it around the pipe until it cuts the pipe.

10. Strap Wrench

This special type of wrench easily wraps around areas that are difficult to access and adjusts to the necessary size. They are also great to use on any plumbing fixtures that you don’t want to scratch, as well as pipes like small copper tubing that can’t handle high pressure.

11. Duct Tape

Besides sealing air leaks in ductwork, duct tape is a must-have for any home. This versatile tape can be used to seal small pipe leaks and slow them down until your plumber technician can come out and replace the pipe.

12. A New Set of Washer Hoses

Washer hoses should be replaced every three to five years. The rubber/plastic gradually wears out and could burst unexpectedly. Having a new set on hand will make swapping them out quick and easy should one burst. Better yet, keep a spare set on hand and set a reminder to change them before the other ones wear out and burst.

13. Caulk Gun and Caulk

Stock your toolbox with a caulk gun and several different types of caulk. There are specific silicone-based and bathroom-type caulks that are designed for different purposes. Just read the outside of the caulk tube to find out what type of sealing it offers.

14. A Bucket

You should have a bucket for placing under the sink in case of leaks. A bucket also works well if you need to clean out the “U” pipe section under the sink. It will collect any water left in the pipe.

15. A Set of Rags

You want to have a set of rags available for plumbing repairs. They make cleaning up quick and easy. Afterward, you can just toss them in the washer to clean them and reuse them again. The rags also work great to place over the pipe when using pliers or wrenches, to help prevent scratches to metal finishes.

16. A Secret Stash of Toilet Paper

You should have a secret stash of toilet paper hidden away in case you run out and forgot you were running low. It is never any fun to discover you are out when you need it the most. Just remember, if you use your secret stash of toilet paper, to restock it.

17. Purple Primer

This purple liquid is used to prime PVC and other types of plastic pipes and fitters. It should not be used on ABS pipes.

18. All-Purpose Pipe Cement

This type of glue is for use on PVC and other types of plastic pipes and fittings where you need to “glue” sections together or ensure they have a good seal.

19. Different Sizes/Types of Pipe Washers

You can get a kit that features an assortment of pipe washers that are used in different types of plumbing fixtures. For example, there are small rubber washers in faucet aerators. If you discover a leak around where the aerator screws onto the faucet, chances are the rubber washer needs to be replaced.

20. Your Plumber’s Phone Number

No matter what plumbing tools you stock in your toolbox, you should have your plumber’s phone number stored in your smartphone, as well as on the refrigerator and in your toolbox. This way, you won’t have to spend time searching for it when you have a plumbing emergency you cannot fix.

Most of the time, you won’t need these tools that often. However, should a situation arise where you do need them, you will be happy you have them stocked in your toolbox. As an added bonus, many of these tools also are great to have around for other DIY-type projects and repairs.

For plumbing repairs, clogged toilets, clogged drains, and plumbing services, including plumbing inspections, leak detection, drain cleaning, water treatment, sewer repair, water heater repair and installation, bathroom plumbing, kitchen plumbing, and more, please feel free to contact MET Plumbing & Air Conditioning at 281-994-6698 today!

We service the Greater Houston Area, including Katy, Cypress, The Woodlands, Sugar Land, and Spring communities. We can also take care of your air conditioning and heating repairs, maintenance, tune-ups, and new system installations. Be sure to ask about our current specials and offers as well!

The post The Top 20 Must-Have Plumbing Tools Every Home Should Have appeared first on Met Plumbing.

Major plumbing repairs are one thing that no homeowner wants to deal with. Of course, everything in a home will deteriorate over time, and eventually, repairs are going to be necessary. However, there are a few things that you can do to extend the lifespan of your plumbing system as a whole, and reduce the likelihood of major issues. If you do have a plumbing problem pop up and an unfortunate time, contact our 24-hr emergency plumber in Pittsburgh, PA, for assistance. Until then, keep reading to learn what you can do to extend the lifespan of your plumbing.

Protect Your Drains

The drains in your home feed directly into your plumbing system, and the things that go down them are the top cause of plumbing issues for most homeowners. It’s important that you and your family know what can safely go down the drain or the toilet in order to prevent clogs and potentially serious plumbing damage.

Additionally, consider putting traps in your sink and shower drains to catch grease, hair, and other things that you would typically allow to go down the drain. By doing this, you can minimize the strain on your pipes and help your plumbing system to last longer.

Avoid Liquid Drain Cleaners

If and when you do get a clog in one of your drains, do yourself a favor and don’t reach for that bottle of liquid drain cleaner. This is an incredibly common mistake that many homeowners make. These products can actually be quite harmful to your pipes and can corrode your plumbing system from the inside. Instead, you’re a drain snake or other manual clog remover to tackle blockages on your own.

Be Attentive to Your Plumbing

Your plumbing system is one of those elements of your home that probably doesn’t get much attention until something goes wrong. Try to avoid the habit of ignoring your plumbing and pay a little more attention to it on a daily basis. Look for small issues like leaks, low water pressure, or odd sounds from your pipes. This will allow you to notice any subtle changes in your plumbing, which could be an indicator of a bigger problem.

By monitoring these little things, you can catch problems before they become major issues, which will not only extend the lifespan of your plumbing system, but will save you money on major repairs as well.

Don’t Put Off Repairs

Finally, when a problem does pop up, don’t try to put off repairs for a more convenient time. Get the issue taken care of quickly to ensure that it doesn’t get out of control. If your plumbing problem pops up on a weekend or holiday or after regular business hours, contact us and ask about our emergency plumber prices in Pittsburgh, PA. We can send a professional out to your home to take a look at your plumbing problem at any time of the day or night, on any day of the year. Call Stahl Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning at 412-273-1000.

The post Ways of Extending the Lifespan of Your Plumbing System appeared first on Stahl Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning.

A pedestal sink can make a bathroom look more open and stylish. No matter your reason for installing a pedestal sink, we’ve got you covered.

Before purchasing or obtaining a sink, you’ll want to remove your old sink. The reason for doing this is that you’ll want to choose a sink that fits with the existing waste, vent and water rough-in. If you get a sink, and it doesn’t end up fitting, you’ll have to alter the rough-in or you’ll have to return it. We’d like to help you avoid that extra hassle. Pedestal sink plumbing is simple and shouldn’t take you more than a day or so to complete.

Removing the Old Sink

You’ll likely need a few tools before you get started:

• Safety Glasses
• Adjustable Pliers (Channel Locks) Monkey Wrench
• Utility Knife
• Rubber Mallet
• Hammer and Chisel
• Drill and Drill Bits
• Bucket

Once you’ve rounded up these tools, it’s time to remove the old sink.

Begin by turning off the sink’s water supply. Turn a faucet to relieve water pressure in the sink’s pipes. Place your bucket underneath the P-Trap — the P-shaped tube directly under the sink’s bowl — and loosen the slip nut at the top of the trap. Remove the trap, making sure to empty any water into your bucket as you take it out.

Relocate your bucket to be directly beneath the water lines. Disconnect each one with your adjustable wrench, catching any water that spills out in your bucket.

Your existing vanity top will probably have some sealant along the top and sides, it may be silicone caulk or some type of mastic. Go ahead and cut the sealant with your utility knife.

If you are planning on keeping your existing sink, you can loosen the vanity top from the sink using a rubber mallet. This will usually loosen the top without cracking the surface. If someone was using a mastic glue too liberally you may have to use a thin chisel or a putty knife to gradually break the seal.  Once it is sufficiently loose, carefully remove it. You should probably obtain help when removing this piece, as vanity tops are usually quite heavy.

You should now be able to see inside your old sink base from the top. Usually, there are screws to remove before you can extract the base from the bathroom.

You can reinstall your P-Trap at this point, as you’ll need it in place when picking out a sink.

Pedestal Sink Installation

Measure the distance from finished wall to the center of the p-trap, from the floor to center of the waste opening and from the floor to the center of the water supplies coming out of the wall. You’ll also want to be sure the sink will fit in your bathroom in general. You have no idea how many times we’ve gone into a customer’s home to install an owner supplied pedestal sink only to find that the bathroom door won’t open or close because the sink it too long or wide. Also worth noting, check the height on the fixture if you have an existing mirror in place.

You’ll need a few more tools for installing than those used for the removal of the old sink:

• Power Drill
• Stud Finder, or Equivalent
• Silicone Sealant
• Plumber’s Tape (recommended)

Lining Everything Up

Once you’ve picked out your sink and faucet, you can begin by placing them in your bathroom. You won’t be doing any installation just yet, just lining things up and doing a bit of eyeballing.

Place the base in the bathroom, move it into place against the wall. You’ll want the P-Trap to be inside the base’s cutout, and the base to be in between the water supply shutoffs. Again, you’re just making sure everything fits at this point — you aren’t installing anything permanently just yet.

Once the pedestal is in place, place the sink on top and verify that it fits snugly. Often there is a “lip” on the bottom of the sink that should be completely covered up by the pedestal. Adjust the sink and pedestal until this is the case.

Now, you’ll want to adjust the pedestal and sink until the sink sits flush against the wall.

Mark the positions of your sink’s holes on the wall. Use a stud finder to locate the studs behind the wall. Although the sink will get some support from the pedestal base, I like to have wood backing to anchor the sink. Drywall anchors don’t cut it. Remove the sink from the pedestal and set it aside. You’ll want to drill ⅛” holes into the wall at these locations with a power drill.

Installing the Faucet

Take the sink aside and grab all your faucet’s parts. All faucets will have slightly different instructions, so consult your manual first.

First, take your faucet’s cover plate if the faucet has a cover plate (Make sure you look to see if you pedestal sink is manufactured for a 4” center or an 8” center faucet — place the cover plate over the holes in your sink where the faucet will go. Insert the faucet’s water supply lines (they’ll be connected to the faucet itself) through this plate, and also through the holes in the sink.

You’ll now install a metal washer on the underside of the sink. Slide the washer over the stud next to the faucet’s supply lines. Slide the supplied nut onto this, and tighten it so that the faucet is fastened in place. Be sure the faucet is lined up before tightening this nut completely.

Installing the Sink Drain

If your drain came already assembled, you’ll want to disassemble it now. Remember how you take it apart so that you can put it back together soon.

Begin by applying a generous amount of silicone sealant to the underside of the flange — the ring-shaped piece that sits in the hole at the bottom of the sink. Sometimes the flange will be attached to a tailpiece, and sometimes you’ll have to screw on the tailpiece after inserting the flange. Only apply silicone to the bottom of the portion that will rest on the sink’s drainage hole.

From the underside of the sink, place the rubber gasket over the flange. Then add the washer. Then add the nut. Tighten everything hand-tight for now. You just want to keep everything in place as you add the rest of the parts. If your flange came with a plastic washer, install that into the bottom of the flange assembly now.

Now you’ll install the tail piece. Apply some plumber’s tape (if you have it) to the threads of the tail piece, and screw it onto the flange with your hand. If the drainage assembly uses a slip joint plumbers tape is not necessary. The pivot piece sticking off the tail piece should point towards the back of the sink. To accomplish this, tighten the tail piece all the way, and then loosen the flange nut and rotate the tail piece. Once it is facing the rear, tighten this nut with a pair of pliers or a wrench to secure it in place.

You may wipe off excess sealant on the inside of the sink bowl at this point.

Follow your pop-up drain’s instruction manual for instructions specific to your drain assembly. In general, you’ll be installing the drain plug and lift rod, so that you can plug and unplug your sink. Ensure this part of your sink works before installing your sink top.

Installing Your Sink on the Pedestal

The time has come to place your assembled sink onto the pedestal base.

Once you’ve placed the sink on top of the base, look at the drain assembly. You want the drain assembly to enter into the P-Trap about an inch or an inch and a half. If the drain assembly does not enter this far, you’ll need to add an extension piece to it.

Installing an Extension Tube (If Required)

To add an extension tube first unscrew the nut on the top of the tube. Slide the nut and the included washer onto the existing drain tube. Slide the extension tube onto the drain assembly as high up as you can. Hand tighten the nut for now since we’ll need to adjust the tube once we place the sink back on the base.

Place the sink back on the pedestal. Make a mark on the extension tube about an inch or so into the P-Trap. Remove the sink from the pedestal once again, and cut the extension tube at the mark you made. You can use a tube cutter, or any other tool you have that can cut through the tubing. Sand the end of the tube to get rid of any rough edges.

Connecting The Sink to the P-Trap

Remove the nut and washer from the end of the P-Trap and slide them onto the drain assembly. Leave about two inches from the nut to the bottom of the drain assembly. Make sure to have the threads facing downwards so that you can screw the nut back onto the P-Trap once the sink is in place.

Place the sink on top of the base, making sure the drain assembly falls into the P-Trap. At this point, you should slide the nut and washer we placed on the drain assembly down onto the P-Trap. Fasten it securely.

At this point, you should have your drain assembly connected to the P-Trap, and the P-Trap connected to the pipe extending out from your wall.

Grab the sink and pedestal firmly, and push the sink flush against the wall. Nudge the whole thing until the holes in the wall line up with the holes in the sink. Insert the screws, and any washers that came with them, and go ahead and attach your sink to the wall now.

Install the Supply Lines

Take each of the dangling supply lines and insert them into the appropriate supply line shutoff valves. Tighten each one by hand first, and then use a wrench to tighten them a tad more.

If your water supply lines have too much length, loop them into a circle or two before inserting them into the water shutoffs. You can also choose to cut the supply lines, but this is more difficult and will not be covered here.

Turn the hot and cold water shutoffs on once you’ve securely fastened the supply lines. Do not attempt to run water through the faucet yet.

Final Steps

Check that your sink is firmly connected to the wall by tugging at it gently. Do not be too forceful here, but apply enough force to verify the screws are in securely enough. If it feels a bit loose, tighten the screws a bit.

Clear Any Debris

Before turning on your sink, you’ll want to remove the aerator from the faucet. The aerator is responsible for making sure the stream of water coming out of the faucet is smooth and consistent. If there is any debris in the faucet or piping, we’ll want the aerator removed when we first run water through it. This flushes out any debris, so it does not get stuck inside the faucet.

Remove the faucet’s aerator with either pliers or the tool included with your faucet. In some cases, you may be able to unscrew the aerator with just your hands. Lower the sink’s plug, in case the aerator’s washer falls out during testing.

With the aerator removed, turn your faucet’s handle to the “on position” and wait for any debris to clear out. Once the water is flowing smoothly without hiccups, shut off the water and reinstall the aerator.

Seal the Back of the Sink

If nothing leaks when you run the water, you’re ready to seal the backside of the sink. This will prevent any water or moisture from getting between the wall and the sink and causing damage.

To do this, you’ll just need to apply a bead of silicone sealant to the seam between the wall and the sink. You do not need to seal all sides of the sink — seal only the top seam.

Closing Notes

If you’ve made it this far, your new pedestal sink is installed and ready to use.

At this point, you can clean up any mess you may have made during installation and return your tools to their rightful places.

A quality sink should last you a long time. And since you now know how to install a pedestal sink, you’re also capable of fixing it should anything go wrong.

This post first appeared on http://www.theplumbinginfo.com

While there are methods to restore pipe damage from tree roots, you can often make smarter landscaping decisions early on to avoid intrusions altogether. A lot of this depends on knowing where your underground pipelines lie, as well as what plant species require deep or wide roots – species to avoid if pipes run across or throughout your lawn, or are within a certain depth range.

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Taking care of your toilet is probably the last thing on your list of things to think about this week. While we understand the reluctance to think about the one appliance in your home that you’d rather not, we urge you to reconsider. Problematic toilets might be one thing, but when they signal that your toilet might have a more sinister problem that could lead to a toilet breakdown, we bet you’d be listening at that point.

While they might be the appliance homeowners can forget about easily, they’re easily the worst appliance to deal with when they don’t work. Toilets are absolutely necessary for your daily life, and making sure you’ve got the right advice and access to quality plumbing in West Orange, NJ is essential.

Let’s talk about a few toilet treatment tips that could make all the difference between a neglected toilet that’s about to break down, and a toilet that’s sure to last.

What Do We Mean?

All we mean by tips is offering information that could be beneficial when surveying the status of your toilet. It’s easy for homeowners to assume that just because their toilet looks functional or clean, that this is how they really are.

Cracks in Your Tank

While cracks in an old toilet might be aesthetically pleasing because they give off an old porcelain look, they’re absolutely a bad sign for your plumbing needs. Some cracks are almost impossible to notice as well. An easy way to tell if these are becoming a problem is if you spot puddles of water around your toilet. Leaking water is an undeniable clue that it’s coming from somewhere, and that usually means the tank of your toilet.

A Wobbling Toilet

While this might seem minor, a wobbling toilet can eventually turn into a problem that you’d rather not deal with. Wobbling toilets can signal one of three problems. Either there’s an issue with the foundation of your toilet, a screw just needs to be tightened (which is obviously the best case scenario), or your floor is damaged. If you notice your toilet wobbling, it’s generally a good idea to contact a professional plumber as soon as possible to pinpoint exactly what the problem might be. If you’re dealing with water damage in your floor, you’ll be glad you caught it early!

Constantly Running or Requiring Fixes

Are you getting tired of constantly having to reach into the tank of your toilet to fix the plug or the chain? Does your toilet run more often than you do when you’re training for the city marathon? Sorry to break it to you, but your toilet really needs quality repairs. Contrary to popular belief, a running toilet is not normal and does not have to keep functioning this way. Contacting a plumber is the best way to mitigate this problem and stop your running toilet once and for all.

Keep your toilet in tip-top shape. If any of these problems sound familiar, give our team a call at MarGo Plumbing Heating Cooling Inc.

This post first appeared on https://margoplumbing.com

Your plumbing system is perhaps the most intricate and complex system in your home — even more complex than your electrical system! Therefore, it is important that you do what you can to take care of it!

Unfortunately, early pipe replacement is something many homeowners have to deal with. The question is, “Why?”

To help, we’ve explained why this problems happens and what you can do to prevent it. All you have to do is keep reading to find out more, and of course, remember to call our team when you need plumbing repair in Orlando, FL.

What Causes Early Pipe Replacement?

There are two main causes of early pipe replacement:

1. Corrosion

The majority of plumbing pipes in today’s homes are made of copper, which is used because of its resistance to rust. Though it does not degrade as easily as iron, copper is still susceptible to different kinds of corrosion. For example, chlorine and formaldehyde particles in the air and soil do not react well with copper, causing it to weaken.

Another reason why pipes corrode is due to the substances that are put down our drains. If you find yourself reaching for a bottle of chemical drain cleaner every time you’ve got a clog, stop what you are doing and call in a professional. You see, store-bought chemical drain cleaners are extremely corrosive, and in addition to eating away at a clog, they’ll end up eating away at your pipes!

2. Limescale

Limescale is a type of mineral buildup caused by hard water flowing through the plumbing system over a long period of time. Eventually, this build-up will restrict the flow of water through the pipe, making the plumbing system less efficient and effective. If the limescale isn’t removed early, it will harden and become impossible to remove without damaging the entire pipe, in which case you’ll have to replace it.

You can combat limescale with a water softener, which adds sodium to the water to help breakdown these unwanted minerals. You may also want to consider installing a reverse osmosis system, which filters water through a special membrane to remove contaminants and separate salt from minerals.

Call in a Professional

The best way to prevent early pipe replacement is to schedule annual plumbing maintenance services with a professional plumber. During your maintenance visit, your plumber will thoroughly inspect the plumbing system to locate and correct minor issues before they become major. This way, you won’t be stuck with the cost of having to replace your pipes!

And sure, there might be plenty of amateurs willing to provide plumbing services for you, but remember, an attempt to save money could end up costing you much more in the long run. That’s why it is better to call in a professional and get the job done right the first time around.

Ready to schedule your plumbing services? Great! All you have to do is contact the team at Modern Plumbing Industries, Inc. today to get started! Quality, Performance and Value Are Our Commitment to You!

This post first appeared on https://www.modernpi.com