During the frigid winter months, your furnace is your source of warm comfort despite the chilling winds that howl outside. Without it, even basic everyday tasks would become almost unbearable. If you’ve ever experienced a furnace failure that required emergency heating repair, you know just how brutal cold temperatures can be without a reliable source of heat in your home.
If you want to avoid the kind of heating service repair that can pose an inconvenient and unexpected break in your winter warmth, it’s a good idea to regularly maintain your furnace. While that means regular visits from heating service technicians to provide preventive maintenance, eventually it will mean replacement of your furnace as well. After all, your furnace may be dependable, but it won’t last forever. To avoid the need for emergency heating system repair in Pittsburgh, PA, you may want to consider proactively replacing your furnace before it stops working at an inopportune moment. Keep reading to learn 5 signs that it’s time to replace your furnace.
Your Furnace Is Old
Your furnace isn’t designed to last forever, so the first indication that a furnace replacement is in your future is the age of the appliance. You can expect to get 10 to 15 solid years of service from your furnace. While some furnaces may last beyond that timeframe, that’s not guaranteed. Therefore, if your furnace is in excess of 15 years old, you should start considering a replacement.
Utility Bills Creep Upwards
As your furnace and heating system ages, it will become less efficient. In other words, it will be forced to work harder and use more energy to maintain the same results as it provided when new. While you may not notice that your energy bills are rising in tiny increments, you can see the increase when viewed over the long-term. Look at your historic energy bills, and if you see that your utility bills are steadily creeping upward, it could be because you need to replace your furnace.
Unsettling Noises
When furnaces age and come close to the end of their service lives, they often become noisier. Modern furnaces are incredibly quiet under optimal circumstances, so if you begin to hear roaring, banging, rattling, or buzzing, there could be problems that will be too expensive to repair. Therefore, a furnace replacement may be in order.
Compromised Performance
Another indication that your furnace may be approaching its final days is its performance. If your furnace struggles to adequately heat your home, or if it heats unevenly with some rooms warmed and others chilly, that’s a sign that your furnace is in its twilight. Consult with a professional furnace specialist for advice on whether it’s time to replace it.
Repair Bills Are Increasing
Every furnace needs maintenance and intermittent repair. It’s a mechanical appliance, after all, and components become worn or broken in routine usage. However, if you find yourself calling the repair service several times a year, it is probably time to replace the furnace rather than putting more money into a failing appliance.
If you have observed one or more of these telltale signs of a failing furnace, explore your options with a HVAC professional. It’s better to replace an ailing furnace than to invest in repairs for a furnace that’s a lost cause. To learn more about when to replace your furnace, contact Stahl Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning at (412) 273-1000.
I know, green/eco friendly products are the rage. Fortunately for the environment the green plumbing movement is here and it’s here to stay. Most plumbing fixture manufacturers have been voluntarily making greener products for the last few years and don’t be surprised if the government doesn’t step in again and make some of these green products like HET (High Efficiency Toilets) toilets and urinals, ultra low consumption faucets and shower heads a requirement.
The one huge obstacle for all plumbing fixture manufacturers when producing high efficiency products is function. After the all the issues consumers had with the 1.6 GPF (Gallons Per Flush) toilets manufacturers have been forced to engineer these new products before they roll out.
So that brings us to shower heads. We know that when we talk about 1.5 to 2.0GPM (Gallons Per Minute) showerheads people run and hide their Speakman Anystream heads. Shower heads in the last 15 years or so up till now have been 2.5 GPM. Most plumbers will also tell you that when 2.5 GPM shower heads were introduced as soon as the head left the box the flow restricter would be popped out and the head was back to between 5 & 8 GPM. So we can appreciate the fear, however like most of the new ECO products, the manufacturers have put in some serious engineering and testing to maximize performance. Most of the major plumbing manufacturers have rolled out their own versions of the ECO shower head and with the wide array of selection choosing the right one can be pretty daunting.
Even Us Plumbers Had No Idea What to Expect
We threw the idea of an article about shower heads and pretty shortly after the ideas started flowing as to how the piece would come together. Believe it or not there were stereotypes which is evident in our mention of the Speakman Anystream, there was also a little fear of the unknown. Even though all of us are plumbers by trade only a fraction of the new shower heads have been examined and even less have been used. So we had to test them and we had to come up with a testing system, one with criteria people could understand despite the subjective nature of the tests.
So where did we go from here? One of the parameters we set was the MSRP of each shower head. All but one of these heads is under $100.00 MSRP. The next thing we wanted to do is have at least two different shower heads from each company, one (1) basic single function and one (1) 3-function. The next criteria is the most obvious, they have to be ECO friendly having flow of no more than 2.0 GPM or at the very least have a function to drop the head at or below 2.0 GPM. Now that we had the basics down we settled on the following criteria to determine the very best ECO friendly shower head:
BUILD QUALITY – Although this criteria isn’t always apparent just by handling the the shower heads what we perceive goes a long way in choosing a product. So rating the weight and feel/build quality was a slam dunk with our testers.
ASCETICS – This is completely subjective and there will be pictures of every head featured in this blowout. You can make you own decision on what looks good. We will however give you our opinion.
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Because there are so many marketing buzz words regarding these new shower heads many of which are related to how much water you feel is on your skin, how much water you think is coming out of the head is important to the showering experience. H2O Kinetic, Raindance Air, Dream Spray, and Fluidics are several of the manufacturer’s marketing terms.
FUNCTION – On the one (1) function does the shower head work well and on the three (3) function do the features function as advertised. Just because there are fancy feature doesn’t mean they are enjoyable. We’ll let you know what we think.
FUN FACTOR – How enjoyable is the shower experience. Do you see a difference with 20% to 30% less water. Do you want to get out of the shower. I’m sure all of us at one time or another turned on a shower, got in and didn’t want to leave.
VALUE – With the current state of the economy most consumers want to know they are getting the best bang for their buck. This criteria will measure how the shower head functions with how it is built to form a sort of “BEST VALUE” pick.
Each category will be judged on a 10 point scale so with the price and testing criteria settled we had to have shower heads, so we went to the the biggest players in the plumbing industry and told them or our plans. We were humbled and grateful that every single company was eager and enthusiastic to show off their shower heads. So without further ado we present to you our cast of players and what we think of them and they are listed by company in no particular order:
SPEAKMAN – Speakman as a company has been around for well over 100 years and has been synonymous with shower heads for decades. It’s Anystream brand is well known and respected in housing and in the hospitality industry. There have been many a business person that have come home from a trip and make an immediate call to their “plumber” to have them install “one of those Speakman Anystream shower heads”. Suffice to say it has been a professionals favorite but how will it stack up against the others with new parameters and low flow being the biggest?
Anystream S-2253-E15 1.5 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $46.00
Speakman S-2253 1.5 GPM Eco-Shower Head
BUILD QUALITY – This such a well built little shower head. As you can see above the list price is very reasonable. The head is nice and heavy and the control knob moves very smoothly. The nozzles are made with hard plastic so although durable they may be prone to scaling over time. RATING 10
ASCETICS – Although the style is dated it is still tasteful and looks very much like a smaller version of the other Anystream heads. RATING 6
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – As with all the Speakman Anystream line they crank up the pressure to deliver a powerful spray. However you won’t mistake this for a 2.5 GPM showerhead. RATING 6
FUNCTION – As I’ve stated a few times already, I’m not a huge backer of the rotating side control. I will say that most 1.5 GPM shower heads give no control options so I have to give credit where credit is due. RATING 8
FUN FACTOR – More fun than most 1.5 GPM heads but still a 1.5 GPM. RATING 7
VALUE – With a list price of $46.00 and the build quality Speakman gives you at that price point you cannot go wrong with this head. It is likely you’ll put this shower head in and never have to change it, they are built to take a beating. RATING10
Anystream S-2252-AF 2.5 GPM Max Flow Adjustable LIST PRICE $75.00 (Not Green)
Speakman S-2252-AF 2.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This shower head is a tank, right on the box they say “Absolutely the Best” and Speakman isn’t exaggerating, it is one of the best-built heads we tested. It’s heavy, the finish is thick and the side control moves in a slow well-oiled fashion. This showerhead will stand the test of time. Too bad it isn’t in our final rankings. RATING 10
ASCETICS – If you like a shower head that hasn’t changed in 30 years then this is the one for you. It is tasteful but pretty boring RATING 6
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Since this is a 2.5 GPM head it is obvious you are getting a bit more water. The head pressure is strong, maybe the strongest of the bunch and the spray pattern is very wide so coverage is not an issue. However, none of our tester thought this head performed better than a few of our Eco heads. You can’t go wrong with this shower head but it seems like a few have caught up, it only took 20 years. RATING 7
FUNCTION – I’m going to say it again, I’m not a fan of the side handle control. It’s imprecise and I know some would say that it allows the user to micro adjust to their preferred spray but it was close to the bottom with most of our testers. RATING 5
FUN FACTOR – Some loved the uber-powerful spray, some didn’t. The average came out to a respectable RATING 7
VALUE – With this head you’re starting to creep up into the middle of the pack as far as cost goes, however like most Speakman heads this one is a beast. Like it’s 1.5 GPM little brother you won’t have any issues with the way this head is put together. It’s performance was so so which definitely affected it’s value score. RATING 8
Anystream S-2005-HB-E2 2.0 GPM Max Flow Adjustable Function LIST PRICE $57.00
Speakman S-2005 HB-E2 2.0GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This is the first Speakman showerhead we tested and the build quality is good. Chrome finish is nice, and the build materials look to be chrome-plated pop-metal and plastic for the spray nozzles. The weight and feel are OK, however, because of the way the spray nozzles are configured they cannot be easy to clean so you may get some scale build-up over time. RATING 6
ASCETICS – This is one of the better looking Speakman showerheads, much more modern looking than most of their offerings. However, most haven’t been changed in 20 years so something different is a welcome site and this head doesn’t disappoint. It is a medium-sized traditional head, starting out narrow at the base and flaring out towards the nozzle face. The face is a light gray and tasteful. RATING7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – This is another showerhead that puts out a powerful spray so you will find yourself asking how they did it on so little water. Cranking up the pressure is not my favorite shower experience however the rest of the testers love it so this showerhead scores well. RATING 8
FUNCTION – This head really doesn’t have defined functions. You turn a control knob and that moves the spray face up or back changing the spray pattern as you turn the knob. One defined function is the full spray and it puts out a powerful spray. At the other end of the knob rotation, the water is diverted into the center jets. This is also a powerful stream of water and although it’s not true massage function, the water pulsates and it is very enjoyable. We are more in favor of clearly defined functions but the head adjusts well. RATING 7
FUN FACTOR -Regardless of our preference a different way to change functions we liked this shower heads fun factor much more than the others and for that, it gets better grades RATING7
VALUE -With a $57.00 list and a better than average performance this head proves it is one heck of a buy and you really can’t go wrong with a Speakman. RATING 8
HANSGROHE – Hansgrohe is also well over a century old and was founded in Schiltach, Germany in 1901. Today they manufacture faucets, shower valves and shower systems and accessories including……you guessed it showerheads. Hansgrohe is considered a premium brand and its quality is evident in it’s fit and finish. All of the showers heads below come standard with Hansgrohe’s Quiclean spray nozzles. The jets are flexible rubber and if there is any scale or mineral build-up simply running your hand over the nozzles will break-up the blockages and you’re good to go.
Croma E75 Eco Air 1.5 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $40.00
Hansgrohe Croma EcoAir E-75 1.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – The fit and finish on this particular head is as you would expect from Hansgrohe. Nozzles are Quiclean for easy cleaning. It’s not a super heavy head but it’s solid. RATING 7
ASCETICS – It’s funny because this style of the shower head was once modern now it is very normal. It is a roundish head with green nozzles that spruce up the look. The connector has a corrugated rubber shield that covers the connection and part of the shower arm. The head is very similar to Grohe’s Relaxa line but has a bigger face and body. It is very pleasing to the eye but pretty plain. RATING7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Let’s preface this by saying this is a 1.5 GPM single function head. As I’ve said in other sections, I believe this is a real threshold when it comes to shower performance. I am a fan of heads that try to make the water feel fuller and this head is no exception. Hansgrohe’s Eco Air technology aerates the water increasing perceived volume not unlike and aerator on a lav or kitchen faucet. It works but at 1.5 GPM the shower head pressure is fairly weak. Great body coverage not so great pressure. RATING6
FUNCTION – We’re aren’t going to get into too much depth here. It’s one function that does an adequate job. RATING6
FUN FACTOR – This is not a head that I would look forward to using time and time again. It’s better than most at this GPM and it has great body coverage so you aren’t going to freeze on a cold morning. RATING6
VALUE – This little shower head has a list of 40 bucks, it’s meant to get a ton of use and be eco-friendly and it does all of the above RATING 7
Croma E100 Eco Air 1.75 GPM Max Flow 3-Function LIST PRICE $70.00
Hansgrohe Croma EcoAir E100 1.75GPM 3-Function Shower Head
BUILD QUALITY – As you would expect from a Hansgrohe product, this head is well built. Flexible rubber nozzles are standard in case scaling is an issue. It is not as heavy as the Hansgrohe C100 shower head featured below but it’s sturdy RATING7
ASCETICS – This is a modern looking shower head. It is a thin and disk shaped with a corrugated rubber cover to hide part of the shower arm and the connection from the arm to the head. The face is gray and slightly over sized with light green nozzles. Although contemporary in looks it is simple enough not to look out of place in a tradition bathroom. RATING 7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Just like it’s brother the Croma C100, this is one of those heads that you wonder how they get such a nice spray with 1.75 GPM. Their Eco Air technology works and works well, you can hear the shower head aerating the water and it really does feel like you’re getting more water out of the head and on the turbo function it feels like even more water. Although the spray technology and function are identical with the shower head below this one felt slightly less powerful. RATING7
FUNCTION – This is a 3-function head. The first is a full spray and it works very well, full body coverage however we felt like it was slightly underpowered. We aren’t sure if this was just a variance in the heads, because the C-100 tested below felt more powerful. We even tested them one after the other just to make sure we weren’t nuts. The second is the body message, this is true message function delivery water at defined intervals, we were not as impressed with this function as we were with the pulsating message of the Speakman and Alsons heads. This function is extremely subjective. The next function is called the turbo function and it diverts the water to cone sprays in the middle. It definitely delivers a powerful spray and the water surprisingly provides full body coverage. RATING7
FUN FACTOR – This has the identical spray patterns and specifications as the C100 and we prefered the C100. Never the less it’s a wide spray head insuring full body coverage. The water pressure isn’t the best but it just feels like you are getting a lot of water. If you like the other spray functions than you’ll like this head even more. RATING 7
VALUE – I know this may seem like a cop out rating there is just no other way to rate this head. Does it have functions? Check. Do the functions work well? Check. Are you get a nice shower head for the money? Check. On top of all that you are getting Hansgrohe quality and that is worth something RATING7
Croma C100 Eco Air 1.75 GPM Max Flow 3-Function 4” Can LIST PRICE $77.00
Hansgrohe Croma EcoAir C-100 3-Function 1.75GPM Shower Head
BUILD QUALITY – Very nicely built. As with all Hansgrohe shower heads, the nozzles are flexible rubber so a quick swipe of the spray head and any scale build up is gone. The shower head has a rotating ring with an indicator to show what function is currently being used. This ring rotates silky smooth and clicks firmly into place when going from one function to another. This head is built with a combination of ABS plastic and brass and has a lifetime finish. RATING8
ASCETICS -We were unanimous in our love for this shower head. It manages to be low profile but remains traditional in the way the face flares. However even though it leans towards traditional it can be used in any shower and not look lost. Its large face is attractive and in style. This is a good looking shower head RATING9
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – This is one of those heads that you wonder how they get such a nice spray with 1.75 GPM. There Eco Air technology works and works well, you can hear the shower head aerating the water and it really does feel like you’re getting more water out of the head and on the turbo function it feels like even more water. RATING 9
FUNCTION – This is a 3-function head. The first a full spray and it works very well, full body coverage, not too powerful, but you also don’t feel like you aren’t getting enough water. We would say the full spray is just right. The second is the body message, this is true message function delivery water at defined intervals, we were not as impressed with this function as we were with the pulsating message of the Speakman and Alsons heads. This function is extremely subjective. The next function is called the turbo function and it diverts the water to cone sprays in the middle. It definitely delivers a powerful spray and the water surprisingly provides full body coverage. RATING8
FUN FACTOR – This is one shower head that remains in our personal shower. It’s a wide spray head insuring full body coverage. The water pressure isn’t the best but it just feels like you are getting a lot of water. If you like the other spray functions than you’ll like this head even more. RATING 8
VALUE -The list price on this unit is starting to creep up into the upper edge of our tester shower heads however this heads combination style, functionality and Hansgrohe quality and style make it an excellent value RATING9
ALSONS – Alsons has been a leader in the handheld market since 1958. Alsons makes nothing but shower products, shower heads, hand held showers, body sprays and shower accessories are their specialty. They offer value driven products as well as premium and designer shower products. Their Fluidics technology claims to control size and shape of each water droplet to create the illusion of having more water volume. This technology was developed by Bowles Fluidics a world leader in fluid distribution products. Fluidics was licensed by Alsons and Delta to be used in their shower heads, Here is a link to the manufacturer to find out a little more about Bowles and Fluidics technology. I’d like to take this time to again give a shout out to Ms. Heidi Farmer, Marketing Manager at Alsons for all of the great information.
Alsons sent us six (6) of their shower heads to test so here we go.
#634 C 200 PK – 2.0 GPM Max Flow 5-Spray Settings LIST PRICE $33.00
Alsons #634 C 200 PK 5-Function Shower Head 2.0GPM
BUILD QUALITY – From what we can tell this a heavy plastic ABS head but it is well built, the full spray nozzles are made of rubber for easy cleaning. The rotating function ring slides into place with an audible click. It is not as heavy as some of the others but it doesn’t feel cheap either. We did have a problem with the metal screen under the rubber o-ring, it twisted and dislodged upon removing the head. RATING7
ASCETICS -This is a smallish shower head so it’s not too big as to look out of place in a normal shower. It’s shape is rather nondescript however the spray face is all nozzles and looks rather busy. We liked it’s look but it tool a bit of getting used to. RATING7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – This particular head cranks up the pressure inside the head and really gives you a powerful full spray and the soft spray is excellent so we don’t think there is any reason not to rank this shower head right up at the top of the list. RATING8
FUNCTION – This is the only five (5) function shower head in the group. The shower head has a rotating ring that locks into place at each function so there is no guessing. The first function is a trickle spray, we find no real value in it other extreme water conservation but that is where the complaints end. The next function is the the soothing soft spray, its made by five (5) cone sprays it give full coverage and is very comfortable. The next is a full spray with a slight massage spray in the middle, because you are using essentially two functions at once the spray isn’t as powerful as the one function by itself but you get plenty of water. The there is a turbo message spray coming from the middle of the head, which gives you a pulsating and powerful flow and finally a full spray. The final is a powerful full head spray. RATING 9
FUN FACTOR – We liked this shower head. You get plenty of features to choose from at bargain basement price and that makes things very fun in our eyes. RATING 9
VALUE – There are no other 5-function shower heads in the test group and at a $33.00 list price this is a tremendous value. If you want some nice features on the cheap this is the one. RATING10
#655 C BX – Fluidics 1.6 GPM LIST PRICE $42.00
Alsons #655 C BX Fluidics 1.6GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – I opened the box and inside was the showerhead in a nice cloth bag. Cloth bags usually convey quality kinda like jewelry. Pretty sweet huh? That’s where the sweetness ended. The build quality is just ok. The head is clearly made of mostly plastic which is fine but it doesn’t feel solid. RATING 6
ASCETICS – Ah I don’t know how to put it lightly, this is not a pretty shower head. It looks very institutional and would be best suited for that kind of application. I guess you could say it’s more contemporary in its style but I use that description loosely. One of our testers said it looked like one of those fake pictures of a UFO and I agree. RATING 4
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Once again here is where these showerheads shine. This is a unique head in that it is still much lower than 2.0 GPM but just a notch above 1.5 GPM and for all of us it seems to work. The water feels big and the spray pattern is plenty wide enough for full coverage. The spray isn’t as forceful as the 1.5 GPM but it clearly feels better. RATING8
FUNCTION – Again this is a one function and it functions admirably on 1.6 GPM. RATING7
FUN FACTOR – This head made the rounds because we all wanted to see a few heads that were more than 1.5 GPM but less than 2.0 GPM our magic number. Almost everyone liked the showering experience when compared to all of the 1.5 GPM heads. I liked the way the shower felt regardless of the GPM and that is a true testament to how most of the Fluidics heads perform. RATING 8
VALUE – This shower head is one of the cheaper ones in our list. You are getting some real performance from 1.6GPM but the build quality is lacking and it’s looks are odd. If we were basing our rating on performance alone it would have scored higher RATING 7
#653 C PK – Fluidics 1.5 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $21.00 This particular model is no longer being produced so although you can probably still get this head it won’t be around forever.
**The shower head below has replaced by the one immediately following this review.
Alson 653 PK Fluidics 1.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – Although the head can be used in residential applications this is a commercial/institutional type shower head. They are built for use and some abuse. This is not a heavy shower head but it is built with heavy ABS plastic and brass. RATING 7
ASCETICS – This is a small shower head and it wasn’t built to move the soul. It’s got a very commercial look. It flares slightly at the face and the face is cut on an angle sporting a black insert with one Fluidics spray nozzle. Nothing special. RATING 5
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – As was said above, it has one large Fluidics nozzle that sprays 1.5 GPM. We all preferred the four spray 1.5 GPM function from the Alsons #660. RATING6
FUNCTION – It’s got one spray at 1.5 GPM. It is as good as one spray can be. Nothing against Alsons. RATING 6
FUN FACTOR – No fun here, get in, soap up, rinse off and out. RATING 6
VALUE – This is a tough one to rate with regard to value. It is very painfully inexpensive and very thrifty on water usage but is does one thing and it sports a very plain design. For less than 30 bucks you can get much better but for less than $21.00 you’d be hard pressed to find any better. RATING6
#653 C PK – 1.5 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $21.00 (Please note Alsons was kind enough to let us take a peak at this model shower head without Fluidics technolgy)
Alsons 653 C PK 1.5 Showerhead (New)
BUILD QUALITY – This new head has virtually the same build quality as it’s predecessor of the same model number. It isn’t heavy like a Speakman or a Grohe but it is less than half the price. Put it this way you won’t have any problem with the way this head is built. RATING7
ASCETICS – The difference between the old model and the new one here is night and day. The only feature common to both is the black ABS plastic near the base of the head but that is where the similarities end. The new 653 went from a small dated design to a very respectable traditional design with stylish lines and an attractive chrome face. I can’t say enough about how this head has improved. RATING 8
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – I am a big fan of the Fluidics technology, I think they have done a nice job of delivering a quality showering experience with less water. So I was a bit surprised to see that Alsons had dropped the technology from this particular head. They must have known what they had waiting in the wings because it feels noticeably better. The old had one spray nozzle, this new one has four and they give you a wider spray pattern giving you better body coverage. Without a doubt, this is one of the better performing 1.5GPM showerheads. RATING 8
FUNCTION – One function, four sprays that function well. There isn’t much to complain about here. RATING8
FUN FACTOR – Again, this is a 1.5 GPM head, is has significantly less water to use and you’ll notice it for a while if you are used to head that uses more water. That’s not what we are here for but nevertheless, this showerhead does a nice job. RATING 7
VALUE – The changes that were made to this head were dramatic and needed. Performance increased as did the design but one thing did not and that’s the price. This is one heck of a bargin for the cost RATING 9
#658 C PK – Fluidics 1.5 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $51.00
Alsons #658 C PK 1.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This showerhead has medium weight, it’s not built like a tank but it is more than adequate. All of the Bowles Fluidics heads have nozzles that are made of plastic not flexible rubber so if your house has scaling issues, these heads may be difficult to clean. RATING7
ASCETICS – There are several of these heads that look very similar, this is one of those. It is a very traditional looking head with a little more girth. The lines are clean and pleasant and this shower head would fit in almost any bathroom. The finish looks to be good as well. RATING7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – This is one of the most water-thrifty of the bunch coming in at 1.5 GPM. This is another Fluidics head and although the pressure was nice it just didn’t seem like enough water. One of our testers said “The spray pattern isn’t wide enough” and that echoed our concerns. It is almost like the spray pattern broke too far away from the head. RATING 6
FUNCTION – The head delivers a powerful showering experience on 1.5 GPM. However, the performance suffered from the lack of water. RATING 6
FUN FACTOR – We had several testers say they were cold in the shower. Now we had some fairly big fellas testing the shower heads so it could be that the shower had a lot of real estate to cover but most still could feel the lack of body coverage. RATING 5
VALUE -At $51.00 I expect more, it’s a nice looking shower head but it’s not the best for the money and the performance is so so RATING5
#660 C PK – Fluidics 2.0 GPM Max Flow 2-Spray Settings LIST PRICE $65.00
Alsons #660 C PK 2 Function Max 2.0GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This shower head is a little on the light side but it feels solid. Its chrome finish is very nice and seems thick. There is an adjustment knob on the side of the head, our suggestion would be to tighten it up. It isn’t loose by any means but there is little resistance when adjusting. If it was a little bit harder to turn and heavy grease was used to make the adjustment smoother, this head would have received a better number. RATING8
ASCETICS -This is virtually identical to the #658 reviewed above the only difference being the adjustment knob so the review will be the same. There are several of these heads that look very similar, this is one of those. It is a very traditional looking head with a little more girth. The lines are clean and pleasant and this shower head would fit in almost any bathroom. The finish looks to be good as well. RATING 7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – We were very pleasantly surprised at the performance head. The Fluidics technology is working and working well. On the 2.0 GPM setting you feel like you are getting plenty of water. I am sticking to my opinion that 2.0 GPM is the magical barrier in shower technology. More about that in a minute. RATING 8
FUNCTION – This head is technically two-function but that is deceiving, it really has the same spray pattern with a 2.0 GPM setting and a 1.5 GPM setting. The difference between the two settings are fairly dramatic. The function lever allows you to switch between the two settings with a simple turn. At first, we were trying to compare this head with other multi-function heads but quickly realized it wasn’t a fair comparison. The spirit of this piece is to find a showerhead that did the best job conserving water while still maintaining a pleasant showering experience. This head did exactly that and also gave us a side by side comparison between 1.5 and 2.0 GPM. Even though the differences are profound this showerhead gives you that choice. You can turn it to 1.5 GPM while soaping up and 2.0 GPM when rinsing off or when you want a good soak. So because of this perspective, we gave this head the highest rating RATING10
FUN FACTOR – The Fluidics technology gives you big drops of water and on the 2.0 setting it’s really a nice showering experience. Also the water comes out with a slight pulse that feels pleasant. It was one of those shower heads that you would put in your shower and keep. RATING 8
VALUE -It is creeping up there in price but the adjustment lever that jacks the water to 2.0GPM makes all the difference. RATING 7
MOEN – This company needs no introduction, Moen is an American leader in plumbing products. Moen first gained fame in the 50s where it’s founder Al Moen invented the single handle lavatory faucet. By 1959 the Moen single handle faucet was voted as one of the “best-designed mass-produced products in modern times” (www.moen.com). Now Moen makes plumbing products of all kinds, kitchen faucets, lavatory faucets, shower valves, toilet accessories and you guessed it showerheads. Moen is known for its quality and value and has even gone into the high-end consumer market in the last 5 to 7 years. Moen went a little crazy but a good crazy by sending us six (6) showerheads. Two (2) of the six (6) are not green. We will not include them in our final showerhead rating but we will give the shower heads the same initial review and it will be a good point of reference. There is one shower head given to us by Moen that has a list price of well over $100.00 however it is an Eco-friendly shower head and it is the only 8” rain dome head in the group and the only Moen showerhead here using Moen’s Immersion Technology. The Immersion Technology basically increases pressure inside the head to give you a nice feeling shower over the 8” surface area of the head. We will rate it like the others but like the non Green heads it will not be included in our final rankings.
#6300 – 2.5 GPM Max Flow Easy Clean LIST PRICE $26.45
Moen #6300 2.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This is a very competitively priced showerhead so that should be noted. The build quality is fine, it’s a very lightweight shower head made primarily of plastic. It does have rubber nozzles which is a feature that comes on heads at a higher price point RATING 6
ASCETICS – This is as unassuming as you can get. It’s small and shaped like, well a common showerhead. It starts out slightly narrow at the base and flares gently towards the spray face. As with all the Moen shower heads the face is a light gray and the nozzles a darker shade of the same for contrast which we like. RATING 6
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – It’s a 2.5 GPM head that makes no effort to feel like you’re getting more than 2.5 GPM. There were 2.0 shower heads that felt like they were putting out more water. RATING 7
FUNCTION – It is a one function shower head, it’s single function works ok. There is really not much more to tell but again we aren’t sure it should at this price point. RATING 6
FUN FACTOR – This is a utilitarian experience. You jump in the shower, take one than get out. There is no reason to stay in any longer. RATING 6
VALUE -I can’t bring myself to try and explain, it’s a simple shower head that works RATING 6
#6300 EP – 1.75 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $26.45
Moen #6300 EP 1.75GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – If you’ve read the above this is the same review………This is a very competitively priced showerhead so that should be noted. The build quality is fine, it’s a very lightweight shower head made primarily of plastic. It does have rubber nozzles which is a feature that comes on heads at a higher price point RATING 6
ASCETICS – Again this is the same review as the above…….This is as unassuming as you can get. It’s small and shaped like, well a common shower head. It starts out slightly narrow at the base and flares gently towards the spray face. As with all the Moen shower heads the face is a light gray and the nozzles a darker shade of the same for contrast which we like. RATING 6
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – This head is just fair when it is 2.5 GPM, it didn’t get any better with .75 GPM less. RATING5
FUNCTION – It’s 1.75 and it functions the way you’d expect it to, which is fair RATING 5
FUN FACTOR – I can’t find it within myself to write any superlatives for this shower head RATING 5
VALUE -Please see above…..RATING 6
#6302 – 2.5 GPM Max Flow (Medium Size Can) LIST PRICE $68.35
Moen #6302 2.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – Very nicely built, most of these shower heads have a medium weight feel and this one is no different. The finish is flawless and the nozzles are all flexible rubber to ward of scaling. RATING 8
ASCETICS – I am partial to traditional looking shower heads and this one is one of the nicest looking. It is proportioned very well starting small at the connection and flaring dramatically at the face. The spray face is a tasteful gray and the nozzles are a darker shade for contrast. It was one of my favorite and since I’m doing the typing I’m rating this one pretty high. RATING 9
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – It’s 2.5 GPM and you can tell, it’s got a little more umph than most of the others but not as much as one 2.0 huh, I wonder which one? RATING 9
FUNCTION – It’s got a nice full spray and it works really well RATING 8
FUN FACTOR – It’s fun, it’s not Eco-friendly but for perspective it’s ok. RATING 8
VALUE – This is a nice fixture, stylish, the finish is great. It is a little on the pricier side but it’s still a value pick. RATING 7
#6302 EP – 1.75 GPM Max Flow (Medium Size Can) LIST PRICE $68.35
Moen #6302 EP 1.75GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This is the shower head as the above so here is a reprint…..Very nicely built, most of these shower heads have a medium weight feel and this one is no different. The finish is flawless and the nozzles are all flexible rubber to ward of scaling. RATING 8
ASCETICS – Same as above so here is a reprint……I am partial to traditional-looking shower heads and this one is one of the nicest looking. It is proportioned very well starting small at the connection and flaring dramatically at the face. The spray face is a tasteful gray and the nozzles are a darker shade for contrast. It was one of my favorite and since I’m doing the typing I’m rating this one pretty high. RATING 9
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Well here is where these two shower heads differ drastically and I’m glad. The 6302 and the 6302EP give us a unique perspective being that they are identical shower heads but one is conventional and one is eco-friendly at 1.75 GPM. If you’ve read any of the other reviews you should know by now that the below 2.0 GPM shower heads haven’t fared very well against the 2.0 GPM and above heads and this is no exception. The coverage is pretty good but the spray is pretty weak. RATING 6
FUNCTION – It’s got a full but weak spray RATING 6
FUN FACTOR – No fun at all, but it looks good RATING 6
VALUE – I can’t in good faith give this a higher value rating than it’s big brother. Even though I love the way it looks it’s a little pricey and there are better showerheads out there. RATING 6
#3233 Envi 1.75 GPM Max Flow 3-Function (Medium Size Can) LIST PRICE $79.15
Moen #3233 Envi 3-Function 1.75GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – The build quality on this shower head is nice. The chrome finish looks to be heavy. The function ring has a short click from one function to the next and the shower head is in the middle when it comes to weight. The nozzles are all made of scale resistant rubber. It feels well built but not exceptional. RATING 7
ASCETICS – All of our testers thought this was a good looking showerhead. Not overly big, very traditional with a modern flair. The spray nozzles are two different colors, light gray on the inside and darker gray on the outside and the contrast in colors adds a little something. Again it wasn’t everyone’s favorite but everyone liked it well enough. RATING 8
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – This is yet another shower head that increases the pressure at the head so the user thinks “well this is a nice hard shower” The bottom line is it feels like you aren’t compromising the showering experience by using this head. RATING 7
FUNCTION – This is another 3-function shower head and it is similar to the Kohler Purist in that it does not have a message function. The head starts with a concentrated middle spray that is very powerful, the next function moves the spray to the outer ring of spray nozzles and the middle nozzles turn off. The outer group of sprays are equally powerful. The final setting and here is where it differs from the Kohler head, combines the inside and outside sprays to give you a full spray. Due to both sets of spray nozzles being activated the pressure isn’t as great but it is still very pleasant. RATING 8
FUN FACTOR – Once again this is a very utilitarian shower head, it does everything pretty well so it’s not a stretch to say it’s a nice shower. Not the best but right under the best, not the most unique features but everything works well. RATING 7
VALUE – With it’s fit, finish and functions this is a showerhead worth the price. RATING 7
#6350 Envi 2.00 GPM Max Flow Adjustable (8” Rain Dome) LIST PRICE $203.40 From all of us at theplumbinginfo.com this head will not be rated in our final numbers. Keep in mind it is almost twice as expensive as the next most expensive head. It is Eco-friendly and I wanted to give an example of a raindome shower head at 2.0 GPM.
Moen Envi #6350 2-Function 2.0GPM 8″ Rain Dome Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This is one finely built shower head. From the minute you grab a hold of the box you know you’ve got something substantial lurking inside. This head is huge spanning 8”. The head itself is built of chrome-plated brass and the finish is beautiful. The nozzles are made of soft rubber which as we’ve said before makes it easy to clean potential scale build-up. The adjustment knob has two positions and it’s movement is smooth but firm. We hate to use the cliche but it fits well here “you get what you pay for”. RATING 10
ASCETICS – It’s fairly simple with regards to style as are most rain domes. This rain head is short in length meaning it fits very close to the shower arm. To be honest this head should probably be mounted from the ceiling but it works just fine from a normal shower arm. This shower head will fit in either a modern or traditional shower. RATING 9
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – The spray isn’t super powerful but you feel like you get drenched because of just how much surface area you are blessed with. If you switch it to the center the spray gets powerful easily on par with any of the shower heads here in our test. RATING10
FUNCTION – This is a two function shower head. The first function fires up all of the spray nozzles and you get deluged with water. The second transfers the water to the center and cranks up the pressure giving you a powerful showering experience. RATING 9
FUN FACTOR – I can’t dish out enough compliments for this shower head. I didn’t want to get out of the shower and after testing I kept it in my personal bath for just a day or so extra to make sure I liked it as much as I did. 😉 RATING 10
VALUE – It isn’t fair to rate this shower head in the value category……
AMERICAN STANDARD – Originally the Standard Sanitary Manufacturing Company, the company was founded in 1875. By 1929 it was the world’s largest maker of bathroom fixtures it was in the same year the Standard Sanitary Manufacturing Co. merged with the American Radiator Company but it wasn’t until 1967 that the company came to be known as American Standard. American Standard is a world leader in kitchen and bathroom plumbing fixtures as well as faucets for a staggering amount of applications. It was a natural choice to have American Standard showerheads in this fight and there will be four (4) tested in this article. Flowise is American Standard’s water-saving line of fixtures and faucets and their patented Turbine shower head technology allows the water to flow over a turbine increasing the spray pattern creating a showering experience that feels like a 2.5 GPM head.
FLOWISE #1660.811.002 1.5 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $47.00
American Standard #1660.811 Flowise 1.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This is a fairly inexpensive head and the build quality is good. It’s light but solid and with only the turbine middle spray there isn’t much room for malfunction. RATING 7
ASCETICS – Almost all of our testers liked this traditional looking shower head, even the ones who prefer a modern look. The head starts out narrow at the shower arm connection then it flares rather dramatically toward the face in a sort of rounded square. It’s lines are simple and clean. RATING 8
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – The turbine spray really kicks out the water and spreads the spray pattern making you feel like there is a lot of water coming out. Definitely one of the best performing 1.5 GPM heads we’ve tested. RATING 8
FUNCTION – Obviously this is one function shower head and with this head, one is all you really need. The only thing that could turn some off is the turbine spray does feel different than traditional spray nozzles but it functions well. RATING 8
FUN FACTOR – Although this head functions well I’m not sure it would be considered fun. It is functional and it’s got pretty good body coverage but I don’t think fun fits. RATING 6
VALUE -In this price range, considering water conservation, style and performance you are getting a pretty good value. RATING 7
FLOWISE #1660.613.002 2.0 GPM Max Flow 3-Function LIST PRICE $72.00
American Standard #1660.613 Flowise 3-Function 2.0GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This head feels like it’s the best built of the American Standard shower we’ve tested, and it should because it is the priciest. It’s got medium heft but you can tell there is quite a bit of plastic used. The nozzles are hard plastic so scale could become an issue over time. The function ring feels a bit cheap as it doesn’t always lock into place. Still not enough for a higher score but a nice showerhead. RATING 7
ASCETICS – This head feels bigger than it is and it’s probably because there is no taper to the head. It’s round and squared off at it’s edges. It looked a little out of place in my more traditional bathroom but it isn’t unpleasant looking, I think it would look much better in a style appropriate shower. RATING 8
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – This head really makes you feel like you’re getting more than you think. The center function combines the middle and outer sprays really gives you a drenching. I personally wasn’t a fan of the last full spray function. Why do you ask? Because when you turn off the middle spray you can physically feel the gap in the spray pattern. A full spray should feel full. Regardless people will like this shower head. RATING 8
FUNCTION – So how did the shower function? Fantastically…..This particular head has three functions, the first and it is the default setting is the turbo cone spray. Water is sprayed out of the center jets through a small turbine increasing the middle spray pattern. It is pleasant and powerful. The next is a combination of the turbo and the full spray and it is our favorite of the three. And finally you have the full spray, it is a powerful spray so for those of you who enjoy this kind of full spray you’ll be in heaven. Just to clarify what we mean by default setting, when the shower is off the control sits in its default setting, when the water is turned on you can move the indicator and the water pressure keeps the function engaged. When the water is turned off the function snaps back to the default setting. RATING 9
FUN FACTOR – We obviously liked the way the shower head performed some loved it other liked, for the most part, it was a winner among testers. RATING 8
VALUE – At $72.00 you are started to get to the upper edge of our price range but this head still offers great performance and build quality for a fairly reasonable price. RATING 7
FLOWISE #1660.611.002 1.5 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $52.00
American Standard #1660.611 Flowise 1.5GPM
BUILD QUALITY – Doesn’t seem to be as well built is the other AS single function. It has the same single turbine spray so durability shouldn’t be an issue. It is a light head and it feel light as well. RATING 6
ASCETICS – I am not a huge fan of the looks but most liked it’s simplicity. It felt to be like a motel shower head, a nice motel shower head but you get the point. It’s got a very small presence when installed on the arm. However, it’s a simple modern and clean RATING6
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – ***The description for this head is identical to that of the other single function shower head above but we will reprint*** The turbine spray really kicks out the water and spreads the spray pattern making you feel like there is a lot of water coming out. Definitely one of the best performing 1.5 GPM heads we’ve tested. RATING 8
FUNCTION – ***The description for this head is identical to that of the other single function shower head above but we will reprint*** Obviously this is one function shower head and with this head one is all you really need. The only thing that could turn some off is the turbine spray does feel different than traditional spray nozzles but it functions well. RATING 8
FUN FACTOR – ***The description for this head is identical to that of the other single function shower head above but we will reprint*** Although this head functions well I’m not sure it would be considered fun. It is functional and it’s got pretty good body coverage but I don’t think fun fits. RATING 6
VALUE – Although this shower head works pretty well it’s look isn’t universally liked couple that with the fact that its pretty pricey and the value meter goes down. RATING 6
FLOWISE #1660.717.002 2.0 GPM Max Flow 3-Function (Medium Size Can) LIST PRICE $65.00
American Standard 1660.717 Flowise 3-Function 2.0GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – Being one of the more expensive heads in the group can be both a blessing and a curse, expectations are naturally high but if they aren’t met consumers can be disappointed. The first thing you’ll notice is its a very big shower head but once you look at the spray nozzles you’ll wonder why. The overall diameter of the head is 5 1/2” inches but the overall diameter of the is 2 3/4” inches. The shower head is not particularly heavy or sturdy feeling and while installing, the bottom half (the large diameter part that houses the nozzles) of the head turned rather oddly making a clicking sound. We’re not sure if this is supposed to happen however during the function test we found no malfunction. RATING 7
ASCETICS – The head is quite large, and we liken it to a megaphone that gently flares towards the face. It isn’t unpleasant but it feels bigger than it should be. At first glance it seemed too big but it’s look has grown on all of us. If it didn’t have so much dead space on the face of the head it would have received higher scores. It will fit in most showers however it is more traditional than modern or as quite a few companies call it transitional. RATING 7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – ***The description for this head is identical to the 3-function shower head above but we will reprint***This head really makes you feel like you’re getting more than you think. The center function combines the middle and outer sprays really gives you a drenching. I personally wasn’t a fan of the last full spray function. Why you ask? Because when you turn off the middle spray you can physically feel the gap in the spray pattern. A full spray should feel full. Regardless people will like this showerhead. RATING 8
FUNCTION – ***The description for this head is identical to the 3-Function shower head above but we will reprint*** So how did the shower function? Fantastically…..This particular head has three functions, the first and it is the default setting is the turbo cone spray. Water is sprayed out of the center jets through a small turbine increasing the middle spray pattern. It is pleasant and powerful. The next is a combination of the turbo and the full spray and it is our favorite of the three. And finally you have the full spray, it is a powerful spray so for those of you who enjoy this kind of full spray you’ll be in heaven. Just to clarify what we mean by default setting, when the shower is off the control sits in its default setting, when the water is turned on you can move the indicator and the water pressure keeps the function engaged. When the water is turned off the function snaps back to the default setting. RATING 9
FUN FACTOR – ***The description for this head is identical to the 3-Function shower head above but we will reprint***We obviously liked the way the shower head performed some loved it other liked, for the most part, it was a winner among testers. RATING 8
VALUE -This showerhead consistently received high marks from all of our testers in most of the categories. So that being said we think it’s a pretty awesome value. RATING 8
KOHLER – Kohler Co. was founded in 1873 after Michael Kohler and a partner bought a cast iron foundry in Sheboygan Wisconsin. They originally made plows and other farm equipment. After a fire leveled the foundry the company built a new facility and added an enameling shop and they began making enameled hog watering troughs which were later sold as bathtubs. If anyone is feeling funny please forward me a joke using the previous sentence, you don’t have to be too clever. The company went through another fire and another complete rebuild of their facility but through it all Kohler was and remains the leading manufacturer of plumbing fixtures in the world. Their MasterClean Technology resists hard scale build-up and makes it easy to clean if a build-up occurs.
#K10240-CP Forte 1.75 Max Flow 3-Function LIST PRICE $84.95
Kohler K-10240 Forte 3-Function 1.75GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – Kohler shower heads are very well built. One attention to detail we would like to point out is the female connector that threads on to the shower arm. Most are thinly coated chrome and the slightest torque from a crescent wrench will flake the plating. Not so on the Kohler Forte, it is heavily plated and it shows. It’s those little things. All of the spray nozzles are made of rubber for easy cleaning and the finish is beautiful and flawless. Kohler’s function ring around the outside of the head moves smoothly clicking into place. RATING 9
ASCETICS – This is where this head shines. It is one of the best looking shower heads we tested. It is very traditional in its design. It starts off small at the base and flares pretty severely to the spray face where it flares a bit more. The spray face itself is large but like the Kohler “Purist” the spray pattern takes up only a small portion of the face. However the spray face is concave and the empty space is gently curved and polished to a mirror shine. The right lighting in a custom shower would make this head jump. RATING 10
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – The center spray has got nice pressure and as you change the function the pressure drops off. The water volume seems to be what you would expect, certainly not the best but far from the worst. RATING 7
FUNCTION – This particular Kohler head has three functions. The spray face is set up to spray in concentric rings. The first is the powerful center concentrated spray, the second moves the water to the second ring of spray nozzles giving you a medium spray coverage. The third function moves the water out to the outside ring and this is the full spray. Unfortunately, as you change functions the previous function’s spray nozzles turn off so on the full spray function the inner sprays are off so you are never getting full spray coverage. RATING 6
FUN FACTOR – None of our testers found it necessary to stay in the shower. They liked the shower head but it wasn’t special. RATING 6
VALUE – Again this has the exact same functionality as the head tested below. The fit and finish is great and we all agreed this was one of the best looking heads tested but it’s just o.k. in its performance. It does a have a list price that is $20.00 less than it’s counterpart so it is a better value. RATING 7
#K997-CP Purist 1.75 Max Flow 3-Function LIST PRICE $105.30 (We’re going to give this one a pass because after discounts it will be below the $100.00 mark.
Kohler K-997 Purist 3-Function 1.75GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – The build quality and attention to detail on this head are excellent. It is a medium weight shower head but is finish is flawless and it has a lifetime guarantee. One attention to detail we would like to point out is the female connector that threads on to the arm. Most are thinly coated chrome and the slightest torque from a crescent wrench will flake the plating. Not so on the Kohler Purist, it is heavily plated and it shows. It’s those little things. The function ring is the entire outside diameter of the shower head and it has a silky smooth rotation. You literally hear the linkage moving inside as you change functions. The spray nozzles are rubber so they resist scale build-up but we would expect that on a shower head with this list price. This head is built to last that’s for sure. RATING 10
ASCETICS – The face is exactly the same size as the American Standard (AS) 1660.717.002 coming in at 51/2” and the spray pattern is 3”. There is still a lot of dead space on the shower face but it isn’t quite as obvious as the aforementioned AS head. The Kohler head is a very short head meaning it fits fairly close to the shower arm so it decreases it’s footprint in the shower, which we like. The spay nozzles are set in a circle of matte chrome inside a circle of chrome, the contrast in finishes really dresses up the head and makes it unique. RATING 9
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – The center spray has got nice pressure and as you change the function the pressure drops off. The water volume seems to be what you would expect, certainly not the best but far from the worst. RATING 7
FUNCTION – This particular Kohler head has three functions. The spray face is set up to spray in concentric rings. The first is the powerful center concentrated spray, the second moves the water to the second ring of spray nozzles giving you a medium spray coverage. The third function moves the water out to the outside ring and this is the full spray. Unfortunately, as you change functions the previous function’s spray nozzles turn off so on the full spray function the inner sprays are off so you are never getting full spray coverage. RATING 6
FUN FACTOR – None of our testers found it necessary to stay in the shower. They liked the shower head but it wasn’t special. RATING 6
VALUE – The only way this shower head could be a serious value pick at it’s price point is if it absolutely blew our testers away in all of the categories. This head is beautiful but there are better performing heads for less money, it wasn’t a game changer in our eyes. RATING 6
DELTA – And then we have our Delta shower heads to test. Delta as a company was founded in 1954 by Alex Manoogian and he is credited with making the first single handle kitchen sink faucet. In 1960 Delta expanded there product offering to include shower valves, trim and lavatory faucets. The company continues to be a leader and innovator of plumbing products and technology. Delta is under the Masco umbrella and shares quite a bit of it’s showering technology with Alsons another Masco company.
#RP61265 2.0 GPM H20KINETIC Raincan LIST PRICE $86.10
Delta RP61265 2.0GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – We can almost cut and paste this description for every one of the Delta shower heads. This head feels cheap, it is almost certainly plastic and is feels like if you press on it hard enough you can bend the plastic. I don’t think that bodes well for the finish but maybe we are all crazy. The nozzles are recessed behind the shower face so I would image if there was ever scale build up it would be difficult to clean. Furthermore every single tester both professional and consumer felt the same way regarding how the head felt. Let me say this, this was the shower head that posed the most difficulty in testing please read on to find out why RATING 5
ASCETICS – Although some liked the size of the head none liked the way the head looked. It is a clam shell design and the design seems dated somehow. Think 80s beach house, a place you’d love to go back to for a day or so, maybe relive some good memories but in the end a place you leave behind. RATING 5
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Here is where this particular review starts to shift. None of us expected this shower to perform this way. It feels like you are getting drenched, one of our testers said “I can’t remember an 8gpm Speakman feeling this good. I’m saving some praise for the next two criteria RATING 10
FUNCTION – As a one function shower head you can’t function any better than this. The box will have a few things explaining the technology behind the head, every bit is true. The Bowles Fluidics partnership was worth every penny. RATING 10
FUN FACTOR – There is simply no better single function shower head that we’ve tested. There wasn’t a single person that used this shower head that didn’t say “wow”. Not only did the water come out with some pressure but it felt full if that makes sense. If any manufacturer thinks they have a better shower head that we didn’t test please contact us. I could have stayed in the shower all day. If this shower head felt beefier and was better looking it would have no equal. DELTA PLEASE MAKE SOME NICER LOOKING SHOWER HEADS!!!!!!! RATING 10
VALUE -What to do, what to do? How do you put a value on on a shower head that is relatively expense, has the looks only a mother could love and has questionable build quality but is one of the best performing shower heads we tested? I’m copping out. RATING 7
#RP51032 1.6 GPM H20KINETIC Contemporary LIST PRICE $59.70
Delta #51032 1.6GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – We aren’t even going to attempt to sugar coat this, for a shower head at this price level we expected more. It feels cheap, the tolerances are off at the seams and the chrome plated plastic on the heads face isn’t perfectly smooth. We were disappointed to say the least, if the build quality matched the performance we would have a real player. RATING 4
ASCETICS – This head is the most contemporary of the bunch and it was also the most controversial. It was an almost even split between testers who loved it and testers who didn’t. I was one of the latter until I installed the shower head. It is proportioned very well, looking neither too big nor too small. It has severe lines but in the right shower it would look great. RATING 7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – The spray pattern is seemingly identical to its Traditional counterpart, however, this performed much better. In fact this was the second best under 1.75 GPM head we tested. The Fluidics technology worked well in this model. We aren’t sure why maybe it was the angle of the nozzles but the spray was much fuller. RATING 8
FUNCTION – It’s one function, functioned fantastically. RATING 8
FUN FACTOR – Again if you want to be green and Eco friendly and not compromise performance this showerhead will not disappoint. RATING 8
VALUE -The performance was outstanding and the design is right on in the right bathroom but we did not like the way the head was built. However, performance and price is huge. RATING 8
#RP54752 1.6 GPM H20KINETIC Traditional LIST PRICE $43.60
Delta #RP54752 1.6GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – It’s a solid head with medium weight. There really isn’t much to it, the outer casing is one piece and the spray face is another piece. It has four Fluidics nozzles made of hard plastic. RATING 7
ASCETICS – As stated in the model number it is a traditional-looking shower head. It starts narrow at the connection and gently flares toward the face. The most obvious thing you’ll notice is the shower heads length, it feels longer than it should be but definitely not offensive. RATING 7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Again this is a pretty frugal shower head coming in at 1.6 GPM. It feels identical to it’s Alson’s brother that uses 1.5 GPM. It’s got a strong spray but the spray pattern doesn’t seem wide enough RATING 6
FUNCTION – It’s one function is functional. However, I’m fairly certain no one will mistaken this head for one that uses 2.0 or 2.5 GPM. RATING 6
FUN FACTOR – Fun for all of us has been fairly easy to quantify. It is simply “do I want to get out of the shower yet?” If the answer is “yep, I’ve had enough” then it’s not that fun, if the answer is “no I’ll stay for awhile” then you’re having fun. None of us stayed for extra time. RATING 6
VALUE -Not too expensive, so so performance and a fairly attractive design. RATING 6
GROHE – Not to be confused with Hansgrohe. Grohe was founded by Friedrich Grohe when he left Hansgrohe in 1936. Grohe continued to thrive after World War II expanding its line of plumbing products. In 1983 Friedrich Grohe passed away but left the company with a legacy of superior products. Now Grohe AG is Europe’s biggest manufacturer of plumbing sanitary fittings and is a force around the world. Grohe is a premier product brand, their products are mid to high end with regards to cost. The Dream Spray is Grohe’s shower head technology that distributes water equally through every spray nozzle.
Relaxa #28342 00E 1.5 Max Flow Dream Spray LIST PRICE $50.00
Grohe #28342 Dreamspray 1.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – There are no shower heads in this group that are built any better than this one. It’s small but heavy. This is a heavy piece of brass alloy that is machined into a shower head. It can literally be unscrewed and used as a weapon. It’s spray nozzles are all easy-clean rubber and it’s finish is flawless. RATING 10
ASCETICS – This is a plain semi round shower head but it is extremely tasteful. It has a small profile fitting closely to the shower arm and it’s light green spray nozzles look pretty cool. Not super stylish but it would fit in almost any shower. RATING 8
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Most of these heads try in some way to increase the consumer’s perception of how much water is coming out of the head and hitting your body. Unfortunately, this one doesn’t look or feel like there is more water coming out. RATING 6
FUNCTION – This is a full spray only but we have to say the spray isn’t powerful, this is a Dream spray head that quite frankly doesn’t feel very dreamy. RATING 6
FUN FACTOR – This is one of those shower heads that does nothing to stir the soul. I feel like a judge on Dancing with the Stars. RATING 5
VALUE -This is so tough because it has no equal in build quality and it’s relatively cheap. The performance was average at best but if you want a shower head to stand the test of time this is it. RATING 8
SYMMONS – Symmons Industries was founded in 1938 by Paul C. Symmons. While working for a small plumbing manufacturer he came up with the idea of manufacturing a valve that could provide a safe showering experience by handling the fluctuations in water pressure within a building’s potable water system. When Paul Symmons founded the company his goal of producing a reliable pressure balanced shower valve became a reality and little did he know it would revolutionize the industry. Today Symmons is managed by Tim O’Keeffe the third generation of family to do so. In addition to manufacturing some of the finest shower valves in the world, Symmons has expanded their offerings by designing and producing a premium line of kitchen and bath products.
Naru#412SH 2.0 GPM Max Flow 3-Function LIST PRICE $114.00
Symmons Naru #412H 3-Function 2.0GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This is one of the heavier shower heads we’ve tested, it feels substantial. The chrome finish is very nice. The spray nozzles are soft rubber and the function control rotates the entire spray face and locks securely into place. However all of these things should be expected from a shower head that lists at $114.00. Not the best in build quality but certainly near the top. RATING 8
ASCETICS – This head is pretty non-offensive, fitting well in both a traditional and contemporary shower It has a 4” spray face and the nozzles go almost to the edges of the shower head. The spray face is light gray and the nozzles are the same color. There is no contrast in color, nothing to set the head apart. We all liked the head but didn’t love it. RATING 7
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Symmons does not do any aeration or asperation to there heads and that is by design. They feel like if you introduce air into the water the temperature change in the water from the time it leaves the spray nozzles to the time it hits your body drops dramatically. We had not noticed this until Symmons pointed it out so we went back and tried all the aerated shower heads and Symmons was correct. We turned the heat up on every aerated shower head to compensate for the temperature lose. Having said that we were not impressed by this heads water volume. There were many in the 2.0 range that performed better. RATING 6
FUNCTION – This is a three function shower head and none of us were impressed by any of its functions. The outer ring (it’s full spray) is O.K. and the best of the three. The next function diverts water to the middle ring of jets and I think it’s supposed to be a soft rain but it barely made it to the person taking a shower. Similar in function to the Speakman but not as good. The final function diverts water to the innermost jets and it is the massage function, again the spray wasn’t very powerful. RATING 6
FUN FACTOR – Not very fun, we expected a ton more especially at this price point.. RATING 5
VALUE – Do we need to pile on here? RATING 4
Rain #4-163 1.5 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $43.55
Symmons Rain #4-163 1.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – When you open the box you’ll notice that for a single function shower head you’ve got a pretty solid unit it’s not super heavy but solid nonetheless. The face is flat and polished to a mirror finish. Then you’ll notice the nozzles, they are like nothing else we tested. Each nozzle is solid metal plated in rough chrome and can be removed to clean. The only negative we can see in the build quality is the finish on the shower head body, it is chrome but it’s a bit rough. Not rough on purpose but rough because the chrome finish isn’t perfect. We tend to think this may be just and anomaly but it is noticeable and it’s on our test head so we have to mention it. The connection to the shower arm is heavy chrome plating and really rounds out the overall finish. RATING 8
ASCETICS – OK here is where things heat up, when I first took the head out of the box you can’t help but notice the ¼” hex head metal nozzles sticking out of the spray face. It’s a bold and industrial look and coupled with the mirror finish on the spray face and it screams contemporary. But wait…..that’s just your initial reaction. After installing you’ll see that the spray body has a 100% traditional bell shape that dramatically softens the look. This is not an over-sized shower head which adds to it’s appeal as some consumers are put off by the size of some of the new “trendy” rain can heads. Suffice to say we liked it a lot. RATING 9
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – I will say this again Symmons does not believe in any aeration to add body to the showering experience and for this shower head it is NOT needed. As I’ve said in some of the other sections I’m not a huge fan of cranking up the pressure to compensate for the lack of water volume. There is a reason for that, most Eco shower heads thin out the streams and crank the pressure, the thin powerful streams can become uncomfortable. This shower head manages to increase the pressure but retain the fullness of the sprays. It is simply the finest 1.5 GPM shower head we’ve tested and has no equal at this GPM. In fact it can stand up straight with most of the others as well regardless of GPM or cost. RATING 10
FUNCTION – It’s a one function that functions superbly. I/We can’t say enough good things about this shower head. RATING 10
FUN FACTOR – Can I think of any more adjectives? I’ll save them you won’t be disappointed. RATING 10
VALUE – At $43.55 list (you’ll get some sort of discount) coupled with it’s outrageous performance this is THE best value of all the heads we’ve tested. RATING 10
Model #4-143 3-Function 1.5 GPM Max Flow LIST PRICE $67.75
Symmons #4-143 3-Function 1.5GPM Showerhead
BUILD QUALITY – This is a medium weight shower head. Finish is very nice. The entire spray face rotates smoothly to change functions however it does not stop or click in to place when the function changes which is annoying. The nozzles are made of soft rubber to ease in cleaning. There is another feature that I want to mention, there is a grip ring near the base of the head that you can grab onto when you want to change the function that is a nice touch. RATING 7
ASCETICS – The design of this 3-function is very similar to that of many here so it is completely non-offensive, more modern but tasteful in a traditional bath. The face is a dark gray with light gray nozzles for some contrast and it’s like an oblong baseball with a ⅓ cut off for the face. RATING 8
PERCEIVED WATER VOLUME – Once again this is where the Symmons head shines, you don’t feel like you’re compromising because of the decrease in water. RATING 9
FUNCTION – There are three functions, the first is the full spray and it is full but just adequate in power. The second is the inner ring and it would be considered a soft rain or deluge, it is functional but not outstanding and finally the middle massage. The middle massage is powerful and works very well. Once again we will heap on the praise, although the head didn’t blow us away it was the best 1.5 GPM multifunction shower head we tested. RATING 9
FUN FACTOR – 3-functions that work pretty well, 1.5 GPM = Pretty fun RATING 8
VALUE – What do you get when you cross $67.75 with 3-functions in an Eco friendly package? One pretty good value. RATING 9
TOP VALUE ECO/GREEN SHOWER HEADS
1.) Symmons Rain #4-163 1.5GPM Showerhead LIST PRICE $43.55 RATING10
2.) Alsons 634 C 200 PK 5-Function 2.0GPM Showerhead LIST PRICE $33.00 RATING10
3.)Speakman S-2253-E15 Multi Function 1.5GPM Showerhead LIST PRICE $46.00 RATING 10
4.) Alsons 653 C PK 1.5GPM Showerhead LIST PRICE $21.00 RATING 9
5.) Hansgrohe Croma C100 Eco Air 3-Function 1.75 GPM Showerhead LIST PRICE $77.00 RATING 9
5.)Alsons 660 C PK 2-Function 2.0GPM Showerhead OVERALL SCORE 8.0
Conclusion: We hope you’ve enjoyed our massive Eco shower head blow out. We’ve tried to give you the most comprehensive look at how the plumbing manufacturers are developing low flow showering products. There is no question we have learned quite few things along the way. One, every company featured here has done a ton of engineering and testing on their products going to market. Gone are the days of sticking a flow restrictor in a regular shower head and then calling it low flow. Consumers demand more from their products. Another thing we’ve learned is just how tough it is to achieve an adequate showering experience with 1.5 GPM. This is a barrier to be certain and if we have to cross it someday, we as a nation will have to reevaluate how we feel about a luxurious showering experience. Finally it was an eye-opening experience to observe how each company handles low flow as a philosophy.
Thanks again to all the manufacturers that participated. We appreciate it very much.
We at theplumbinginfo.com are believers in the water conservation movement, please try to do your part. Changing a shower head is one of the simplest and non intrusive ways to conserve water. Thank you for reading and please feel free to leave comments or contact us with any questions you may have about these products listed above.
It’s Safe to Say Basement Flooding is a Big Deal in Plumbing
If you’re a victim of flooded basement, we’ve got the help you need. If your basement is flooding you’re probably asking yourself a bunch of questions. How do I fix basement flooding? How do I repair my basement so it doesn’t flood? Why do I have wet basement walls? What can I do to water proof my basement walls? What shoes do I wear when I’m trying to fix the water damage? Why does my basement flood, I’m on a lot that’s higher than my neighbor’s? These questions and many more will be answered in this article.
We Haven’t done a Good Job Explaining the Details
It’s surprising how little people what causes basement flooding. What’s even more surprising is the fact that no one seems to explain it correctly or in a way that is easily understood by the homeowner.
Let’s first start by saying that your foundation is akin to a big concrete boat. When the ground is fairly dry your foundation sits comfortably in its resting place. However, when the ground is saturated, your foundation is actually being forced out of the ground. If it didn’t weigh many tons it would pop right out of the ground. The weight keeps it from coming out of the ground, preventing further damage.
Hopefully, that gives you an idea of how water affects a foundation hydraulically, in fact, it is aptly named hydraulic pressure or hydrostatic pressure. When water is present in a basement or crawlspace both the home and business owner immediately panic. What are the causes of this? What’s the best way to fix it? This is completely understandable especially when most people keep valuables, records or collectables in their basement and if you’ve spent your hard-earned dollars on finishing your basement, forget it, you call a plumber for help.
If you’ve had flooding issues in the past the alarm bell automatically goes off in your head when it starts to rain. You’re thinking “what’s gonna get damaged?” “how am I gonna clean this up?” “how can I keep the mold out of the basement?”. The pictures above might scare you, but trust me this is pretty common. Cleaning isn’t the only thing though, you are probably concerned about what actually broke or caused the flood. In this case, you usually stop and consider your options. Who can help? What should I do next? You’re probably concerned about the cost of the damage too since homeowners insurance doesn’t cover all flood damages.
Any flooded basement insurance claim for water getting into the basement from outside is best taken care of by a Public Adjuster, since a lot of the times an insurance company will deny the claim. As a side note, if your basement is flooding because water is entering from outside, you should reconsider your landscaping to prevent basement flooding. The land around the basement area can act as a protector of floods. Cities like Toronto will subsidize your basement flood-proofing. So there are options depending on the location you’re in. Now let’s jump into the basics of basement flooding.
(Here’s a quick flood fun fact: The Great Flood of 1937 drastically affected the Cincinnati and Louisville areas. It left behind 14.88 inches of water in Fernbank, which is west of Cincinnati. And it left an even bigger flood in Louisville with 19.17 inches. Now that would be a disaster flood to clean up. This meme represents how I would feel about it.)
Basement Flooding Basics
If you know some basics regarding what is going on outside the foundation walls, under your foundation floor and you know some basics about your sewer you can intelligently explain to a plumbing professional what seems to be your problem or you could very well attempt to fix the problem yourself.
Let’s explain some of the characteristics of water with reference to your foundation. First water is not very susceptible to being compressed. Which means it’s going to find its way to every nook and cranny whether it be in air pocket in the ground or a crack in your basement floor or foundation walls. Water also finds its own level, meaning it could be leaking at the bottom of your foundation but find a seam in your wall and wick up 8 ft to the top of your foundation making it pretty difficult to put your finger on the problem.
So now that we know that water pressure is the root of almost all flooding and moisture problems let’s look and the different scenarios that occur to cause flooding. If a homeowner called and said “my basement is flooding” the first question should be is “is the water coming from the foundation or a floor drain?” The water is generally coming from one of those locations; a flood isn’t going to occur if you leave a window open. If it is coming from a basement floor drain the next question to be asked is “do you have an ejector pit and pump in your basement?” If the homeowner says no it tells you several things. Number one they have a gravity sewer.
Actually all sewers are gravity however this particular one is unique in the fact that all waste water, even water collected in the basement, flows under the basement floor and out to the city sewer. If water is coming up from their floor drain and they don’t have an obstruction in their sewer then the city main is backing up.
When sewers were first installed in metropolitan areas around the country they were combined sewers in that they took away both rainwater and wastewater. This comes as a surprise to some because storm and wastewater are always separated in buildings but yes in quite a few municipalities they combine together in the sewer main. Quite a few cities in the US, like Chicago or Atlanta, still use combined sewers however they are slowly being phased out. Having a combined sewer lends itself to some unique problems especially to a homeowner that is connected to it.
Basement Floods During Heavy Rain
So we bring ourselves back to flooding occurring in a home in the basement through a floor drain with no sewer obstruction. Think of a sewer in the middle of the street taking sewage from each home or business connected to it and then add to it torrential rains in the spring and fall. These combined sewers were never designed to evacuate that volume of water, in fact, typically during rainy seasons a combined sewer runs at 100% capacity. The technical term for this phenomenon is “surcharged”
When there is nowhere else for the water to go it finds its way back to each home or business connected to it and floods the homes/businesses, backing up through the floor drain and if there is enough flooding it will find its way to any crack in a foundation or wall. There are several fixes for basement floods during heavy rain, two band aids and three real solutions.
Floor Drain Plug or Econo Plug. This is just what it sounds like; it’s a plug that fits inside the floor opening for prevention. This type of plug usually consists of a neoprene rubber gasket sandwiched together by two plastic or metal plates; they are connected by a threaded screw topped off by a wing nut, as you tighten the wing nut the two plates squeeze the rubber gasket out thereby sealing your floor opening. What are the advantages you ask? It’s real cheap. The disadvantages are many.
The following is rare but possible, if there is enough pressure and the plug is tight enough the plug could dislodge itself rather violently possibly injuring someone. The other very real disadvantage is that by installing a floor drain plug you are allowing some pretty extreme water pressure to build underneath your floor. We have seen basement floors crack because of hydraulic pressure under the floor. In some instances you are better off letting the basement flood to alleviate the damage to the foundation floor. Lastly, you’ll never be able to detect a plumbing blockage in the sewer system until it’s a real problem.
Install a StandPipe. This is a pipe installed inside your floor opening that allows somewhere for the water to go in case of a back-up. What are the advantages? It’s cheap. The disadvantages are very similar to the above. Increased hydraulic pressure resulting in possibly buckling of a basement floor and if there is a sewage blockage you won’t find out until it’s a real issue, a very messy issue.
The ever popular stand pipe.
Basement Flooding Fix #1
Install a BackWater Valve. These are made by several manufacturers and they are basically heavy duty check valves. They are installed on the main sewer right at the foundation wall. As explained previously most are check valve style in that when water starts backing up into the sewer line the valve slams shut. If a homeowner chooses a manual style back water valve they have to crank the valve shut during heavy rains and remember to open it back up when the rain is over because if someone uses the facilities while the valve is closed you will have some serious backups. Advantages of having a backwater valve, they work and they work well. Disadvantages, they aren’t cheap to buy or install.
Basement Flooding Fix #2
Divorce your floor drain in your house from the house sewer. Basically you just disconnect the sewer from that floor drain tying the house sewer back in after the floor drain. This makes the whole sanitary system in the home or business a stand pipe. Advantages of doing this, again as in the above “fix” it works and the disadvantages are also price.
Basement Flooding Fix #3
The last and probably the most effective fix if it is feasible is to take your gravity sewer make it an overhead sewer. Let’s explain in a little more detail. The waste from the house now drains under the basement floor and out to the street. What you would do is abandon the old sewer, take all the fixtures in the house and tie them in over head in the basement ceiling. You would have to excavate outside dropping down to connect back to the city main at the old connection. You would then tie the basement floor drain into an ejector pit with a pump to take care of any basement fixtures or floor drains.
When the basement fixtures are used they fill up the pit and the ejector pump, pumps the waste to the overhead sewer. The advantages to this are many, usually when taking a sewer overhead you add a cleanout on the sewer as it exits the foundation this facilitates rodding if there are any future stoppages and as in the above “fit” the whole sewer system acts as a stand pipe. The disadvantage as you can already probably imagine is the cost. It’s an extensive plumbing job but one when done correctly can really give you some peace of mind.
Basement Flooding Fix #4
This is a little different angle. This fix has everything to do with the outside of the house. I’m going to give you an example that I myself have experienced first hand. I lived in a home where my back yard back up against the street behind me. There were no houses in back of mine. The street was probably 2 1/2 ft higher than the top of my foundation. When it rained heavily the run off from the street would drain into my backyard. There was nothing stopping the water from accumulating around my foundation and we had flooding issues from day 1. There are many different ways to tackle this issue but the one that would work the best is to change the grade of the backyard to take the water away from the house. The first step is to build a berm at the back of the property to shield the backyard to some degree. The next step is to have a landscaper come in and grade the backyard sloping the grade away from the house to the berm. Where the berm and grading meet you install a french drain 24″ down with perforated drain tile and a bed of pea gravel. This will allow the water to collect under the grass so you don’t end up with a pond in your backyard. Understand that if you have a situation like this there is no inexpensive fix. You can also install drain tile next to the foundation in lieu of building a berm and regrading but this fix will not keep the water from running info the backyard it will only partially protect your basement from flooding. If the drain tile becomes overwhelmed you’ll still flood. Regrading is a permanent fix to a complex problem.
Basement Flooding Fix #5 This One Needs A Story
Bottom Line, Basement Flooding Sucks
If you’ve read this site over the years you’ll notice there are many articles about basement flooding. Never did I think I’d be writing an article about my own flooded basement. It’s a bit embarrassing actually made more so by the fact that it’s been a real bear to figure it out. What I hope to convey to my readers is that basement flooding can be difficult to figure out no matter how seasoned you are.
The Beginning: First Flood
When we moved into our house it was completely gutted and rehabbed and the basement was finished before we moved in. A basement bathroom was built and the floor was tiled. The rest of the basement was carpeted. There were two low spots that I believed to be floor drains however, they were carpeted over. Since we moved into the house in late winter we would soon find out how the house handled a good rain. Unfortunately we found out pretty quick. During a nasty downpour in early spring I got the dreaded “wet carpet in basement, It’s flooding Sean” text from my wife. So I rushed home to find the carpet soaked in both low spots. I cut the carpeting back to confirm what I suspected, two floor drains both backing up. I had easy access to the clean-out on the waste stack so I got my hands on a Rigid K-1500 and opened up the sewer. The water went down and all seemed well that is until the next heavy rain. Once again I was out and about, and my wife texted me “water in basement again, come home”. So run home I did with the rodder in tow. Once again I punched through the blockage and the water drained. Of course I broke out the wet/dry vacuum, dehumidifier, fans and portable heater to dry out the carpeting.
Because of the age of the house and the proximity of several large trees I suspected I had a tree root issue. There were several lingering issues that had to be addressed before the flooding could be resolved. I had an accessible clean-out that dropped straight down into the house sewer however, the fitting used was not a long sweep fitting so the only head I could use to unblock the line was a spade head. Had a long sweep fitting been used we could have gradually opened up the sewer with a tree root cutting head. Would it have fixed the problem for good? No, however it would have bought us some time.
Next Step Sewer Video Inspection
Because there was no plumbing cleanout in the yard we had two choices; run a sewer camera up the line from the street or attempt to put the camera in the cleanout from the house. Luckily the sewer camera head was able to make the turn and we were able to assess the problem. From what we found we had two serious issues:
One was that fact that we had a ton of tree roots and there was really no way to get to them unless we came in from the street
Two was that the storm sewer was criminally undersized. Even during a moderate rain the storm sewer would run almost full. Translation: Even if we cleared the tree roots out we would still back up anytime we had a downpour.
Installing a Forced Main Is the Cadillac of Flood Control
The most extensive and expensive option would be to install a forced main flood control system. The first option gives you access to the sewer for tree root maintenance and for a possible blockage but does nothing to stop the water in the case of a surcharged city sewer. The second option gives you ease of access for maintenance purposes and a heavy-duty backwater valve to stop any water from backing up into your house. However, what happens when the check valve engages for an extended period of time during a long downpour? You can’t use the plumbing in your house. If you flush a toilet the wastewater is hitting a closed check valve, if you try washing clothes, using a dishwasher, etc. you will back up at the lowest fixture in the house. If you have a basement shower with a gravity sewer it’s coming up at that fixture. A forced main sewer is the answer. Some call this a sewer lift station but it’s really not. Let me explain the system:
An excavation is made at a predetermined location where your sewer exits the house. You try to take landscaping and tree location into consideration when digging.
After exposing the sewer line and expanding the excavation to accommodate a concrete manhole the aforementioned manhole is notched or cored for the sewer piping and the manhole is lowered into place. Here’s where the magic happens. The sewer is repiped with a sanitary tee turned to 10 or 2 o’clock. (stay with me I’ll explain in a second) A backwater valve is installed on the outlet side of the tee, a fitting reduced to 2” is installed on the outlet side of the back water valve and that is connected in-line with a short piece of pipe where it leaves the manhole.
We are just going to concentrate on the plumbing in the manhole for now. An ejector pump is installed at the bottom of the pit and it is piped with a check valve over to the reduced fitting on the outlet side of the backwater valve.
Lets move outside the manhole. You install a cleanout outside the manhole and connect it to the small piece of pipe exiting the manhole.
Now you backfill with new trench backfill that conforms with all local and state codes.
So how does it all work? You have the cleanout so you can maintain the sewer in case of a backup from outlet side of the cleanout to the street. You have an opening inside the manhole so you can rod, hydro jet or camera from the manhole into the house and you have a backwater check valve in case of a surcharged city sewer. But what happens if the city sewer backs up and you are also using shower, toilet, dishwasher, clothes washer or any other plumbing fixture with a waste outlet? You’ve got a wastewater Mexican standoff. Wastewater is trying to leave the property but the check valve is shut because of the surcharged sewer. Remember that open tee fitting I wrote about above? In this particular case that open fitting would allow the wastewater to pour out into the pit so there is no potential backup in the house. Once the water level is high enough he ejector pump would cycle forcing the water on the city side of the check valve hence the name “forced main.” Once the flood control system was installed we had no more issues with sewer backups of any kind.
You could install an overhead sewer however in my case our foundation sits 2ft above the ground not allowing for much depth to bury the sewer line. An overhead sewer also doesn’t address fixture usage in the house in case of a city sewer backup.
Time Passes Basement Floods Again: The Mystery Continues
Everything was fantastic for some time. No heart palpitations when it rained, no water. Then slowly water started to accumulate back at the now concrete covered floor drain. I started to see a pattern and it was after we used the shower. But every time I ran the shower to watch if water reached the low spot none would show up. This isn’t completely unusual because there are instances where showers leak only when a person is using them due to the base flexing because of the weight. But again it was ambiguous and difficult to trouble shoot.
And then we had series of torrential rain over the course of 48 hours. I was in my office and I heard my son call for me rather sheepishly “Dad” “Yeah buddy what do you need?” “Um its flooding” “Ok how bad?” “Pretty bad, I think you need to see it” I walked out the door to see a quickly spreading pool of water maybe 8ft by 10ft 2” deep in the center. Because the basement is daily living space and my office is also located there I immediately sprint up the stairs to get towels and fans and a shop vac to attempt to control the flood.
There were a couple good things to come out of this basement flooding. One, I was determined to figure this out and two I could see water coming up through the tiles in the bathroom and running from the back of the bathroom to the low spot. This gave me a clue as to the source of the flooding. It had to be coming from the foundation. Because there were several cracks that were repaired in the basement I never thought there would be another but I went outside to look at the foundation and estimated were the water was coming from and after digging down about 6” I found a crack and a patch.
At least I had a place to start however, this still didn’t take away the nagging feeling I had about the leaking shower. Finally I pulled back the carpet and ran the shower for about 15 minutes, sure enough water began running inside the wall right back to our now infamous low spot.
Now we knew we had not one but two leaks that were independent of one another but the water from each ended up in the same place. When doing work at another person’s home it’s usually pretty fun to tear things apart however, when it’s your own house not so much but demolition had to be done.
First we tore out the drywall covering the foundation wall to reveal as expected a pretty sizeable crack that was patched however the epoxy covering the crack began to peel. I brought in a foundation-sealing expert and after he removed all of the epoxy patching he determined that the sealant probably didn’t go all the way through the crack. We set up a time to do it right.
On to that pain in the butt shower. After taking off the base board trim I could see that floor was open underneath the shower and the base was built on 2x4s to raise it off the ground a bit. I could see the shower drain piped into the ground but I couldn’t see beyond that. I turned the shower on and within seconds water began backing up from around the shower drain piping and it began running under the shower base and along the wall. Although I wasn’t sure why it was backing up yet at least I knew for sure there was a leak.
The next step was to uncover the connection and luckily for me that wasn’t too difficult. After breaking up some of the concrete right outside the shower and digging a bit I found an old floor drain. The plumber that piped the shower drain, piped it into the old floor drain with epoxy. (Code approved? NOT!) Although that is pretty shoddy plumbing what’s worse is that the waste piping serving the floor drain wasn’t taking any water.
Excavation to Uncover the Waste Piping
I had to do quite a bit of excavation to finally uncover the waste line servicing the floor drain. Once excavated I cut out a section of piping to find that it was 100% blocked with 20 years of black sediment. This floor drain hadn’t been functional in decades. I ended up cutting out all of the 2” piping until it became 4”. I ran our garden hose into the line to make sure it was clear and I visually inspected it as well. I subsequently re-piped the shower correctly with PVC, tested it, back filled it with pea gravel and some spoils and cemented over. We brought in a contractor to do the drywall, tile, painting and carpentry.
Would I call this endeavor a success? I suppose, one that took me 9 months to truly figure out. The reason I wanted to share this story with you especially in such detail is because I wanted you to know how difficult it is at times to track down basement flooding issues. I think of myself as an expert in this area of plumbing and it was still very difficult to pin down. I literally had three separate water issues manifesting in the same spot for three separate reasons. I’m lucky I still have hair because I pulled out some of it while trying to figure it out. If you bring a plumbing or basement leak professional out to your home give them the time to go over all the possibilities because as you’ve read above there are quite a few of them.
How to Deal with a High Water Table
The next section of this topic has everything to do with hydraulic pressure against your foundation floor and walls. There are some areas in the country/world where the water table never gets high enough for there to be flooding issues if you live in one of these areas good for you if you don’t read on.
We’ve talked a little bit about water pressure and how it affects your foundation, if you are having flooding problems in a basement or crawlspace and you don’t have a sump pit and pump you don’t have a drain tile system in your house. Most homes with basements are supplied with drain tile systems on the inside of the foundation under the basement floor. When it rains water is collected into the drain tile and the water flows to the pit and it’s evacuated by the sump pump. This kind of drain tile system is an acceptable way to take water away from a home’s foundation.
Let’s start from the obvious, if you have a sump pump in your basement and you are flooding and your sump pump isn’t working have it replaced. If you’re not sure it’s working unplug it for ten seconds and plug it back in, all pumps should cycle, if it doesn’t, you’re going to have to replace your pump. If the pump is working and evacuating water from the pit and the foundation is still taking water there could be multitude of issues.
The first thing to check is to see if the drain tile is collapsed. The collapse would still allow water into the pit but any water before the collapse would find its way into the house. If the drain tile is found to be intact then it is likely that the amount of water is too much for your interior drain tile to handle. One solution to this would be to install a second drain tile system on the exterior of the foundation tying it back to the existing sump pit or installing a second pit. This can be an expensive fix but sometimes it’s necessary.
Emergency Flooded Basement, What To Do First
Here are the steps you should take if you come home or walk downstairs to a flooded basement. We have several acquaintances that sleep with one eye and one ear open during thunderstorms. Although waking up to a wet basement is never very fun. Having a plan of attack in the event it happens can mean the difference between minor damage and a major restoration.
First Step to Take
Sometimes it’s easy to figure out why the basement flooded if your power has been out for several hours. The water table is super high and you’re sump pump isn’t pumping so the basement floods. This one is easy, if you don’t have a battery back sump pump or a standby generator you grab a cocktail and wait till the power comes back on. If you’ve got some sandbags ready or you have a family the size of the Duggars and a garage full of buckets you can get to work but most of us don’t.
If the power is on you have to determine the cause of the basement flooding. Go outside and take a peek at the discharge piping from your sump pump. It should be piped independently outside to a retention area or to the municipal storm sewer. You should be able to see water pumping out right away. If the pump is removing water your existing pump is being overwhelmed.
Get the Water Out As Quickly As Possible
The first thing you need to do is get the water out as quickly as possible. The longer the water sits in your basement the greater the chance you have of developing mold. So if you have power and your sump pump is actually pumping water you need to get other temporary pumps with discharge piping helping the cause. You want to make sure the flooding has completely stopped so you can move on to the next step.
**Caution** as with any situation where you are dealing with water and the possible contact with electricity please take special care. We would recommend calling a professional if the water is over 2″ in depth across the entire basement.
The Water is Out, What’s Next?
So the pumps helped with the water removal now what? If you have carpet in the basement tear it out and throw it away because it will get musty. The smell of the mold forming is something you’re going to want to avoid. There is no way to dry it in time to save it from being a petri dish for basement mold smells. Now you have to dry the floor, and any walls. Fans won’t cut it, manually drying it is your best bet. Find your local tool rental company and rent a torpedo heater or a couple and turn them on full blast until the basement is dry. There are many different companies you can purchase a heater from, just make sure the heater isn’t too hot, you don’t want it to overheat the area.
A Couple of these will dry things out quickly
What if The Basement Was Finished?
The basement was finished with flooring and clean drywall right? We told you what you should do with the flooring or carpeting. So that leaves you with a drywall problem. You can’t dry the walls quick enough to prevent water damage and subsequent mold. The standard procedure for flooded basement drywall is to remove the baseboard and the first two feet of drywall. We agree with this procedure unless the water has been lying stagnant for some time. If that is the case all of it has to come out. Trust me, I’ve been in your shoes before, and it’s not a fun process, but it’s necessary.
Again the above can all be done by a professional plumbing contractor in conjunction with a restoration company but some of the steps can be done by you the homeowner. As always thank you for reading and we hope it helps in the event of basement flooding.
I always tell people if you’re going to spend a significant amount of money finishing your basement spend 10% on a real flood control system. If it costs you 50K on the basement spend 5K on flood control.
A clogged drain can throw life out of whack in any household. There are many reasons that can cause a drain to clog, but grease accumulation is the most common – especially in the kitchen sink. Yet bathroom pipes can also be at risk. Read on to learn more about grease build-up, how to unclog pipes yourself and when to call a plumber. Also, better yet, learn how to prevent grease build-up in the first place!
The dangers of grease in the pipes
A grease-clogged drain is a big headache. In addition to blocking water flow, the subsequent back-up is messy, foul-smelling and ultimately unhygienic. But you may be surprised to learn that you don’t have to make a habit of deliberately pouring cooking oil and grease down the drain, as covered in our blog post – “Still Pouring Grease Down the Sink?” As the good people atBalkan Sewer & Drain Cleaning point out,there’s “hidden” grease in many foods.
“Grease, oil, and fat are common by-products of foods or cooking processes. Many other things can build an accumulation of grease inside drain pipes such as meats, food scraps, dairy products, butter, coffee grinds, rice, eggshells, many soaps, and detergents as well. Basically anything else that comes from food or is used for cooking can be a potential cause of a grease clogged pipe. Even when you are a very cautious person, you may not notice the existence of grease in the drain pipe until overflowing happens.”
Think your bathroom pipes are immune? Most soaps are based on animal or vegetable fat, and grooming products such as shaving gel can also build up in pipes over time.
How do clogged pipes occur?
Kitchen sinks, especially the sink traps, are the most vulnerable to grease build-up. Fat, oil, grease and grit (FOGG) – along with water – flow down the kitchen sink easily, more so because the water is usually warm. When the water reaches the pipe, it becomes cold over time. It is easy for the water to pass through, but the FOGG solidifies in cold water. The grease either sinks to the bottom of the pipe – or, in a more likely scenario – floats on top of the water, forming a coat on top of the pipe. The grease accumulation slowly builds as more and more grease goes down the sink, eventually clogging the drain completely.
More from Balkan Sewer & Drain Cleaning:
“Drain pipe clogging is possibly caused by a mixture of calcium and fat as well. Human urine and corrosion from pipe produces calcium; when mixed with fats from any source, formation of dense and fairly hard soap takes place. It means that any pipe located in any room in the house can get clogged by soap formulated by the mixture of calcium and fats on day-to-day basis.”
Will a little elbow grease work?
Dealing with grease clogs is not an easy task. Applying elbow grease (the only kind recommended around a drain) on an existing clog can get the water flowing again, but the idea is to prevent grease clogs. Home improvement writerHannah Madans offers these tips inher article forDo It Yourself.
An ounce of prevention– In addition to not pouring bacon (or any other kind of) grease down the drain, take care to keep that hidden grease at bay. Wipe off utensils and plates before putting them in the sink, and use a grease-dissolving dish detergent. Such detergents are labeled accordingly. They prevent grease build-up, but do not dissolve existing solidified grease in pipes. If possible, install a garbage disposal – yetbe sure to use that properly, as well.
Use caustic cleaners – Consumer drain cleaners are readily available in supermarkets and big box retailers. Some brands are more eco-friendly than others, while some are formulated to be compatible with septic systems. Read the label carefully to make sure you’re buying the product that best suits your specific needs and plumbing system – and then follow label instructions carefully. If the first attempt doesn’t clear the clog, refer to the instructions regarding how to safely repeat the process.
Use a homemade grease remover– If you want to cut down on cost, you can make a grease removing cleaner at home. Boil water, then take one part of hot water and mix it with one part of vinegar. Pour the solution into your drain and allow it to stand for several minutes. While the hot water melts the grease, the vinegar will eat at the grease sticking on the pipes. After pouring the hot water and vinegar mixture into your drain, follow it up with some boiling water. The boiling water should flush the remaining grease from your pipe.
As mentioned earlier, clogged drains can make your kitchen smelly. To get rid of the foul odor emanating from the drain, you can mix one part of hot water with one part of bleach. Pour this mixture down the drain, followed with warm, soapy water.
When is it time to call a plumber?
If your DIY attemptsfail to clear the clog, call a plumber. Sometimes the grease consolidates to the extent that home remedies don’t work.
Have you considered having water filtration installed for your house? Probably, since you’re reading this. People are searching for healthier water quality today because of the concern about pollutants entering the municipal water supply. Although water goes through treatment plants to remove harmful chemicals, bacteria, and heavy metals, many of those same impurities can enter the pipes carrying the water to homes and businesses. Aging pipes can also send pollutants into the water supply.
Concern about water quality often drives people to purchase bottled water as a solution. If you’re thinking about the installation of water filtration systems in Glendale, AZ for your home, you already have suspicions that bottled water isn’t the best, cost-effective choice.
And you are right.
Bottled Water Isn’t What People Think It Is
Here’s something we need to explain at the top: bottled water is rarely better quality than municipal water, and sometimes is worse.
Companies selling bottled water want you to believe you’re drinking something that purified and fresher than fresh. “Pure spring water!” But most bottled water is coming straight from the municipal supply and receiving nothing more than basic filtration—if that. Because the water is shipped across state lines, it isn’t subject to basic municipal requirements and can be approved for sale even if it’s lower quality.
Then factor in how much bottled water costs, and you’ll start to see the serious problem. Bottled water costs $11.8 billion total in the US each year, and the average consumption per consumer can add up to $250 per year, and that’s the low estimate.
Bottled water is also terrible for the environment. Plastic manufacturing has a major impact, and even worse is the amount of plastic that ends up in landfills. Only around 20% of water bottles are recycled, and the rest total up to about 2 billion tons of garbage put into the landfills.
Whole-House Water Filtration Is Superior in Every Way
When you arrange with one of our water quality experts to put a whole-house filtration system onto your water main, you’ll have cost-effective, high quality water with minimal effect on the environment—and you’ll have it all the time, at every tap. You can talk to our professionals to find out what you’ll end up paying per year with a filtration system compared to using bottled water. You could pay less than $100 a year for water for the entire family. Compare this to bottled water: a family of four can spend $1,000 in a year on bottled water.
Water filtration systems are also better at the job of purifying and conditioning water—plain and simple. These systems can be specially targeted toward the impurities entering your home so you end up removing what actually needs to be removed. Another huge benefit is what better-quality water does for your plumbing system. It’s not just about superior health for the people in your home, but superior conditions for the plumbing.
We’re ready to help you out today with better water and better savings!
Many homeowners don’t know a lot about their home’s plumbing. The plumbing system in any home can be complex and intricate. The good news is that when you need plumbing installation in Pittsburgh, PA, you can rely on professional plumbers. In the meantime, though, there are plenty of quick facts you can learn about your home’s plumbing that will be very helpful to you, your home, your plumbing, and your wallet.
The Pipes Need Space
It’s very common to utilize under-sink space as storage. In the cabinets beneath many folks’ sinks, you’ll probably find bottles of cleaner, sponges, towels, and all sorts of home goods. However, these spaces should actually be kept pretty empty, for two good reasons. First of all, you don’t want to bump or dislodge any of the plumbing by taking out and putting back supplies from under the sink. Secondly, if you need plumbing services, the plumber will need unobstructed access to the pipes.
Not Everything Is Flushable
If you truly want to protect your home’s plumbing, forget about flushing things (other than bodily waste) down the toilet. One of the most common reasons people call a plumbing service company is to fix a clogged toilet or pipe. Even items that seem harmless can gather over time and clog a major part of your home’s plumbing. These include:
Hair
Tissues
Band aids
Baby Wipes
Dental Floss
Cotton Balls
Paper Towels
Make sure the young kiddos know this fact!
Leaky Faucets Are Costly
It may not bother you that your sink leaks a little bit. You may think that a few drops of water here and there don’t really add up to much. Unfortunately, these small amounts of water can add up very quickly, wasting a lot of water and costing you money each month. A faucet that drips consistently throughout the day can waste upwards of a gallon of water each week. Don’t pay for water that is going to waste!
You Can Shut Off the Water
Did you know that it’s possible to shut off the water coming into your house and through your plumbing system? Each home has a main water valve that can be used to interrupt water flow if necessary. As a responsible homeowner, take a few minutes to find this water valve, simply so you know exactly where it is and what condition it is in. This way, if a plumber needs to shut off the water in your home, you can easily show them where they can find the valve.
Keep these four facts in mind for better knowledge and usage of your home’s plumbing. Whether you are looking for plumbing installation or service in Pittsburgh, PA, Stahl Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning can help you! With years of experience, these plumbing professionals can address your concerns and help you navigate your home’s plumbing system. Call today to schedule an appointment for a plumbing checkup or to fix a problem quickly and correctly.
Delve into our list of plumbing terminology to make your way in this complex yet necessary market. This article will make it easy for you to understand the core concepts that stand at the foundation of the plumbing world. Let’s begin!
ABS – Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene. Rigid black plastic pipe used for Drain, waste, and vent lines. Please check your local codes to see if this material is code approved. In most major metropolitan areas it is not a code approved material.
ABS Pipe and Fittings
Absorbent – A material that is used to hold gases, liquids or solids or suspended solids on it’s surface or inside pores. The most common absorbent used in the plumbing world is activated carbon.
Absorption Field – This is a seeping field designed to disperse the liquid waste from a septic tank through a filter bed. The septic tank fills with liquid and solid waste and the liquid waste drains off to the absorption field leaving the solid waste behind.
Absorption Pit – A pit specifically designed to disperse liquid waste from a septic tank through a filter bed.
Access Panel -A covered opening in wall made near a plumbing or electrical fixture to allow access for maintenance. In plumbing an access panel would hide control or shut off valves or cleaouts for rodding plumbing fixtures.
Paintable Access Panel
Acid Dilution Basin – A plumbing appurtenance connected to waste piping servicing a part of a building receiving corrosive or acid waste. Most acid neutralizing basins use limestone as the neutralizing media. Here are some applications where an acid dilution should be used, school labs, hospitals, research facilities, pharmaceutical manufacturing, printing facilities, automotive service centers, film processing, etc.
Acid Waste – Any waste water containing corrosives or acidic liquids that must be neutralized before entering the municipal sewer system. Most often fixtures receiving acid waste are connected to an acid dilution basin which neutralizes acid before the waste water enters the sewer.
Orion Acid Waste Products
Acid Waste Piping – Simply put its waste piping and fittings that are resistant to acid waste. Examples of applications where this is used, laboratories, hospitals, photo labs and printing presses. Some of the materials used in making acid resistant pipe and fittings; glass, polypropylene and polyvinylidene fluoride for really harsh situations. Polyvinylidene fluoride is also fire retardant and when approved can be used in a plenum ceiling.
Acrylic – A very strong and hard thermoplastic and in plumbing it is used as a surface material for bathtubs, shower bases, tub or shower surrounds. When used in bathtubs and showers acrylic is usually back with fiberglass to add strength and rigidity. Acrylic is also used to make plexiglass shower doors.
Activated Sludge – Waste that contains the solids that have settled during final sedimentation after waste is aerated.
ADA – (Americans with Disabilities Act) This term is very important as it relates to plumbing. It affects the height that water closets can be mounted, the types of handles you can install on a lavatory faucet, how much pressure it takes to push down a flush valve handle and those are just a few. Here is a link to the 2010 ADA Standards publication www.ada.gov/regs2010/2010ADAStandards/2010ADAStandards.pdf
Sweat Copper x MIP Adapter
Adaptor – A fitting used to join dissimilar piping methods i.e. sweat copper to threaded fittings, PVC to cast iron.
Adjusting Linkage – An adjustable rod or strap that forms the connection between the lift rod and the ball lever assembly of the drain.
Aeration – a method to introduce air with water to help in releasing dissolved gasses that contribute to foul odors or unpleasant taste. Aeration can be done in several different ways, air can be bubbled up through the liquid, liquid can be sprayed into the air or the liquid can be agitated oxygenating it by bringing the surface water in to contact with the air. The best example we can give for the use and effects of aeration is the cleansing of the Calumet Sag River in Illinois. Large parks where created along the Calumet Sag River pumping millions of gallons of water through attractively created waterfalls. The results have been staggering.
Aerator Fittings – a type of fitting installed on a plumbing fixture that mixes water with air. These fittings help with water conservation and reduce splashing.
Faucet Aerator Fitting
Aerobic Bacteria – Bacteria living, active and occurring in the presence of oxygen.
AGA – (American Gas Association)
A.I.A -(American Institute of Architects) This is basically a self policing regulating body that promotes excellence in architecture. They are heavily involved in all facets of education for their members from internship, to mentoring to licensing and support. A.I.A. is also the preferred method by which sub contractors invoice their customers. Chances are if you’ve been a subcontractor for awhile you know exactly what G701, G702 and a G703 form is for. If you are familiar with all of the AIA forms are you probably have a head ache, they can be tedious but they are ultimately there to protect the Owner.
Studor Air Admittance Valve
Air Admittance Valve – The most common of these is called a STUDOR vent, these valves are designed to allow air into a drainage system with out using a vent. It opens to allow air to equalize pressure in the drainage system but closes to stop sewer odors and gases into the living space.
Air Chamber -A vertical air filled pipe or manufactured spring coil installed above the waterline in a potable water system that absorbs pressure fluctuations when valves are turned off i.e. a shower is turned off or a fill valve in a toilet slams shut. The pressure absorbing devices reduce water hammer. Having air chambers on plumbing fixtures with water connections is code for most municipalities.
Typical Shower Air Gaps
Air Gap – The unobstructed physical distance between the outlet end of a plumbing apparatus or piping delivering potable water to a plumbing fixture to the flood rim level of the receptacle (sink, dishwasher, clothes washer or tank) Think of a kitchen sink faucet with a pullout spray if you pulled it out and laid it in the sink you would have no air gap. The air gap protects the potable water system from cross contamination. Please see Backflow Prevention Device, Vacuum breaker, double detector check valves.
Air Gap on a Lavatory
All Thread Rod – a connecting rod used in almost every construction trade. In the mechanical trades it is mostly used to hang piping materials from the underside of a the structure of the building.. Threads are in one direction and standard hex nuts can easily be screwed on to secure a multitude of different hangers. Come in a variety of sizes and finishes. Most common sizes in the piping trades are 1/4″, 3/8″,1/2″, 5/8 & 3/4″ it’s most common finishes are black and galvanized, stainless steel is also a common material.
Anaerobic Bacteria – Bacteria that lives and grows in the absence of free oxygen. These bacteria get their oxygen by decomposing substances that contain oxygen.
Angle Stop or Angle Valve – Angle stops are named because they are manufactured at a 90degree angle, they are used as shut off valves at the water intake of plumbing fixtures or appliances. They usually have an oval handle or can have a removable handle when vandalism or theft is an issue. They are not meant to be used in high pressure situations.
Common Angle Stop
Angle of Repose – This is one of the first things we learned about excavating in plumbing school. The lesson was followed by a video of a man caught in a cave in. He broke most of the bones in his body amongst other gruesome things. This is the greatest angle above ground level at which backfill or debris will lie without sliding. Please use shoring figure out the angle of repose if you’re digging below 4ft.
ANSI – (American National Standards Institute) The American National Standards Institute was founded in 1918 and they are the U.S. voice for conformity and regulation. ANSI is compromised of government agencies, academic institutions, manufacturers and contractors and their purpose is to enhance the US global position and to create regulations, norms and guidelines. Those regulations affect almost all businesses from every sector.
Anti Microbial (plumbing definition) – Any plumbing fixture or plumbing accessory that is manufactured with anti-microbial characteristics integral to the product. An anti-microbial plumbing product is one that kills or hinders the growth of bacteria, mold, etc. Vitreous china is naturally anti-microbial when glazed because of it’s glazing and non porous surface. Recently toilet seats are a common plumbing accessory manufactured with anti-microbial properties.
Anti-scald Valve – (please see pressure balanced and thermostatic mixing valve)
Americast – A patented process from American Standard that uses a porcelain surface, an enameling grade steel material and a structural composite backing bonded together to create a sink that is similar to cast iron in durability, heat retention and sound deadening but weighs considerably less therefore it is cheaper to install.
Annealing – In plumbing the process by which rigid copper is made soft and pliable. The process consists of heating the metal to a certain temperature and holding that temperature for a set amount of time then allowing the metal to cool slowly to room temperature.
Anode Rod – These sacrificial anode rods are installed at the top of a water heater tank and are generally made of magnesium or aluminum with a steel core. Simply put, through electrolysis the anode rods will corrode before the exposed metal in the tank. If the anode rod has been corroded the water begins to attack the exposed metals in your water heater which will eventually cause it to fail.
Anti-Siphon Valve (Vacuum Breaker) – The simple definition is an anti-siphon valve is a device installed on a water supply line that prevents water from backing up into the potable water system. Vacuum breakers are an example of an anti-siphon valve. Anti-siphon valve are most commonly spring loaded one way valves. When the direction of flow is going in desired direction all works well, if the direction of liquid changes the valve slams shut prevent back siphonage.
Vacuum Breaker
Apron (or Skirt) – The decorative portion of a bathtub that covers the rough-in area of the tub. It is most easily recognized on a whirlpool tub, the apron is most often removable to be able to service the tubs plumbing and or motor.
Bathtub Apron
ASA – (American Supply Association) Formally founded in December of 1969 the ASA is an organization that represents wholesale distributor and their supplier in the plumbing, heating, cooling, industrial and mechanical pipe, valve and fittings industries.
ASME – (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) A professional member ship group founded in 1890, this group originally came together to test steam vessels because of the numerous failures. Now it is the premiere standards development organization. Setting codes and standards throughout the mechanical trades.
ASSE- (American Society of Sanitary Engineering) Founded in 1906 by Henry Davis Chief Plumbing Inspector for the District of Columbia. This group consisted of plumbing engineers, plumbing inspectors and installers all with the common idea of making plumbing safer and more universal though out the United States. They also have quite a bit of influence as to the adoption of plumbing code and the vital testing of plumbing product and theory.
ASTM International – (formerly know as American Society for Testing Materials) Formed in 1898 by chemists and engineers from the Pennsylvania Railroad they organized the railroad’s new chemistry department, where they investigated the technical properties of oil, paint, steel, and other materials the Pennsylvania Railroad bought in large quantities. Organized a new set of standard that they expected their suppliers to follow. At the present they are “globally recognized leaders in the development and delivery of international voluntary consensus standards” Please visit their web site for a more detailed history.
Back Flow – The circumstance of water traveling from one system back into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning.
Back Flow Preventer – The two most common types of back flow prevention devices are a double detector check assembly and an RPZ. A double detector check assembly is one device that houses two check valve assemblies in the line of flow. The check valves are spring actuated and are designed to open with 1 pound of pressure.
The double detector check assembly is installed with one (1) gate valve on the inlet of the valve and one (1) gate valve on the outlet side of the valve. These assemblies prevent back flow or back pressure in nonhazardous situations and are most used to protect the potable water system of a building from the water in a fire prevention system.
A detector check is made with a by-pass assembly and meter to detect any unauthorized or illegal taps, test cocks are also present so that required yearly testing can take place. Each check valve can be isolated and tested independently to see if they are leaking and operating properly.
An RPZ – is very similar to the double detector check in that it houses two testable check valves. It has two gate valves one (1) on the inlet and one (1) on the outlet. Here is where things change, an RPZ is used in high hazard situations, where contamination of the water supply would pose a significant health hazard.RPZ (reduced pressure zone backflow preventer) and Double Detector Check Valve
Backpressure in a Plumbing System – Pressure that is less than atmospheric pressure. If a sewer drain line is running at 100% capacity and with greater than intended velocity if the waste water passes another drain outlet it could cause a negative pressure. This negative pressure can pull a water seal from a trap causing sewer gas or vermin into the living space. Extremely high winds can also pull the air from the plumbing vent pulling the trap seals with it.
Backup (Sewer) – The overflow of water usually combined with waste from a plumbing fixture caused by a blockage in the fixture drain or waste line servicing the aforementioned plumbing fixture.
Battery Back-up System
Back-up Sump Pumps – Literally any pumping device that acts to back-up the primary sump in case of power failure or primary pump failure. Most back-up sump devices include some sort of marine battery either wet cell or maintenance free gel battery. There are back-up sump pumps that use no electricity and function on incoming water pressure.
Backwash Cycle – No this isn’t what you’re sibling leaves in the bottom of the Gatorade bottle. The Backwash cycle is a process a water softener or water filter goes into, usually pre-programmed for off hours, whereby the water flow is reversed cleaning the filter media. The waste water is sent to an open site drain.
Backwater Valve – A valve that is installed on the house sewer that prevents water from backing up into the house. The most common use for a backwater valve is in situations where the city sewer is combined waste and storm. In these cases during torrential rain the city sewer runs full with only one place to go, back into the house or businesses connected to it, a backwater valve is installed in this situation.
Baffle – An object or screen placed in a plumbing fixture or appurtenance to change the direction of or retard the flow of water or flue gasses. The most common baffles used in plumbing are the ones found in a grease separator. The baffles are used to slow down the incoming waste water, allowed the suspended grease and solids to cool and rise to the top for easy removal.
Balancing Cocks or Valves – A valve with an adjustable partition or gate which can be used to increase or decrease flow. They also have self sealing ports in which thermometers can be inserted to check the temperatures of the liquids.
Ball Cock – The valve by which the water enters a tank type toilet (water closet), fills the tank and shuts the flow of water off when the water reaches a predetermined height in the tank.
Barrier Free – This relates to ADA and handicap access, the easiest to understand is the barrier free shower base. A barrier free shower base has little or no threshold to encumber a wheelchair from entering or exiting.
Basin Wrench – Is a tool that only has one real use , it’s inexpensive and pretty easy to use. A basin wrench actually looks like a steel bar with a curved head with teeth on one end. The other end ends with a T handle. Obviously turn the water off before using. Go under the sink and position the head at a 90 angle catching the nut, turn in the appropriate direction to remove and your all set. If the sink faucet is too high to reach you may have to pull out the extended handle.
Basket Strainer – A device shaped like a cup or a basket with holes or slots that fits inside a drain that allows water to drain out but catches debris before it enters the waste piping.
Beam Clamps – A clamping device used when beams are the only thing used for support. They are used in conjunction with pipe hangers to ensure proper support and pitch. The beam can be c-clamp type or can span the entire beam.
Bench Mark – It is a known elevation set throughout a building or job site that all trades can use to locate proper elevations for doors, windows, plumbing fixtures etc. An elevation will be set usually by the general contractor in accordance with the engineer and all trades can measure from that elevation. It can also be a mark on a permanent flat service whereby it is used to lay out walls, columns, stairwells, etc.
Bends – A generic term given to all elbows made from all types of piping material.
Bidets– A plumbing fixture about the same height as a seat of a chair that is most often used for the bathing of the external genitals and the posterior parts of the body.
Biodegradable – Any material subject to degradation to simpler substances by way of biological action i.e. aerobic and anaerobic decomposition. Substances that are considered biodegradable are detergents, human waste, organic matter.
Black Water – Waste water from toilet, urinals, bidets or food prep receptacles or waste water from drains receiving chemical waste.
Bleed (Water System) – To drain a pipe or piping system of excess air by opening plumbing valves or appurtenances exposed to the atmosphere i.e. shower valves, faucets and drain down valve.
Blind Plug – A plug or cap used on no-hub piping to end a drain line. It is affixed to the end of the pipe by a no-hub coupling.
Body Sprays – For all practical purposes these are shower heads. Some are hand held, some are on a sliding bar so that the can be moved up or down and some are positioned throughout a shower to spray on different parts of your body while showering.
Body Spray Tiles
Boilers – See PlumbingMechanical Equipment
Brackish Water – Any water containing bacteria between 1,000 and 15,000 ppm of dissolved solids.
Braided Supplies – A flexible pressure tubing usually made of synthetic material that is encased in braided threads of steel or stainless steel. The braided covering protects the synthetic tubing from damage due to abrasions and crimping.
Branch Vent – A vent connecting one or more individual vents with the vent stack.
Branch Water Piping – The local domestic water piping that extends from the vertical risers (or other mains) and supplies water to plumbing fixtures or equipment.
Brass Seats and Seals – In a plumbing valve the surface area on the moving part of a valve and the stationary part of the valve. When the moving part of the valve comes in contact with the non-moving part the flow of water stops completely. The most common material used for valves seats is brass. Brass seats eventually have to be repaired or replaced because with continual use the seating surface degrades over time.
Brazing – uses (How To) Similar to soldering, brazing is the process of filling a void (for plumbing) in a pipe joint with a filler metal to join pieces of pipe or fittings. Brazing filler metals generally have melting temperatures above 1,100 degrees Fahrenheit. Most brazing filler metals contain some amount of silver, copper and phosphorus.
Break Tank – A type of vessel that holds a supply of water that is to be used for a specific purpose (mainly heating) other than for consuming or flushing plumbing fixtures. It is filled through an air gap (to prevent contamination of the domestic water system) and the water supplying the tank shuts off, when filed to a predetermined height, by an automatic shut off valve.
Bubbler – The word bubbler has a rather interesting back story. It’s definition is simple, it’s another word to describe a drinking fountain like the ones you see at a park. However, there is really only one place in the country where it is used with regularity and it’s in the Badger State of Wisconsin. Check out this article for more on this strange little regional phenomenon.
Building Drain – The lowest point of a drainage system where all of the interior drainage piping meets and is discharged into the sewer.
Bushing – A pipe fitting used to join two pieces of dissimilar sized piping. There are many different joining methods but the most frequently used is threaded on both ends.
Butterfly Valves – The butterfly valve has some similar features to that of the wafer check valve. It is very thin and lightweight so space and support are not issues. It is closed using a wafer or disc that is mounted on a rod that is secured in the middle of the valve. The rod exits the valve at the top and ends with a handle that incrementally controls the internal disc. In the open position the disc is parallel to the pipe in the closed position the disc is perpendicular to the pipe closing off flow. These types of valves can be used to control flow and are especially affective in tight spots. Most times the handles are spring loaded and allow you to lock the valve into a certain position.
Nibco Butterfly Valve
CAD (Computer Aided Design) – A method of designing building mechanical systems using a well known computer software. Prior to CAD, engineers and architects had to design and layout all of the different piping trades by hand and with the aid of the subcontractors “shop drawings”. Now most of it’s done via computer. There are still changes in the field but those changes are always relayed to the engineer and are updated on the master CAD files.
Cast Iron Pipe and Fittings – Plumbing sewer and vent pipe and fittings that are made from cast iron. It is manufactured in two (2) types–hub and spigot, and no-hub. The hub and spigot pipe and fittings are manufactured as either service weight or extra heavy. This relates to the wall thickness of the pipe and fittings, the extra heavy having a thicker wall thickness. The extra heavy pipe and fittings are rarely used today and availability of various fittings is limited.
The hub and spigot type pipe is manufacture in three (3) lengths–five (5) and ten (10) foot single hub, five (5) double hub and thirty (30) inch double hub. Single hub means the pipe has one (1) end that is plain and the other has a hub and double hub means there are hubs on both ends. The no-hub pipe and fittings are manufactured in service weight and the pipe only comes in (10) foot lengths. The hub and spigot pipe and fittings are joined by using either neoprene gaskets or lead and oakum. The no-hub pipe and fittings are joined by using a stainless steel band with neoprene gasket that is manufactured specifically for the no-hub pipe.
Cast Iron Waste Fitting
Ceramic Discs – similar to brass seating material, ceramic is the hardest material you can use in seating material. One ceramic disc rotates and slides against the other. As the holes or notches in the discs align the water passes through. Ceramic discs are completely unaffected by water temperature so the neither expand nor contract, they are not damaged by debris in the water line.
Chair Carrier – (Please see Fixture Carrier)
Check Valves – A check valve is a one way valve in that is has one inlet and one outlet that allows the a liquid to travel in one direction. It is used to halt the flow of the aforementioned liquid in case of a drop in pressure or reverse in directional flow. The majority of check valves used in the plumbing industry work automatically meaning when the pressure or direction changes the valve slams shut.
Brass Nibco Check Valve
Circuit Setter -A circuit setter is a balancing type valve used in an HVAC or plumbing system to regulate pressure in the whole system or within part of the system. In a plumbing system it is used to regulated pressure between hot and cold water inside the potable water system. Many years ago a check valve and a ball valve where used, the check valve would shut down a hot or cold water supply if there was a sudden drop in pressure and the ball valve with a memory stop was used to regulate flow. This prevented cold or hot water bleed over if the pressure was increased or decreased in either supply piping.
Circuit Vent – A branch vent that serves two or more fixtures with integral traps like a water closet or fixtures with p-traps installed in a battery (fixtures grouped together). The vent extends from the top of the horizontal waste branch in front of the last fixture waste to the main vent stack of a building drainage system.
Cleanout – An accessible opening that is placed in a drainage line at a convenient location to accommodate drain cleaning equipment in the event of a line blockage.
Cleanout Cover – An esthetically pleasing cover (usually chrome plated) that hides a cleanout. The cleanout cover is usually furnishing with a chrome center screw that threads into the cleanout plug.
Chrome Cleanout Cover
Clevis Hangers – A piece of metal bent in the shape of a “U” that is used to support pipe or conduit from a structure. The “U” has holes through both ends through which a rod is inserted and attached to the rod is a yoke with a hole in it through which a threaded rod is inserted and the threaded rod is attached to the structure.
Closet Flanges – A flanged fitting that is connected to the sanitary drainage system that is used to bolt a water closet (toilet) to the floor. They are made of different materials, i.e., cast iron, copper and PVC.
Cock Hole Cover – We know it’s a silly word but it is an actual plumbing term. It is simply this, a metal cover that is inserted onto an empty hole in your kitchen sink or counter top. They come in different finishes like chrome, brass, white and stainless steel. Say you replace your old kitchen sink faucet that has a side spray with an updated model that has a pull out spout. The faucet with the side spray used a four hole sink. The one with a pull spout uses three holes or one if you don’t use a cover plate, you’ll have one extra hole. You’ll need the ever famous cock hole cover.
Coffee Station – In a commercial tenant space, a place for employees to get coffee, ice, or have lunch or take a break. Coffee stations typically consist of a kitchen sink, faucet, coffee maker, and refrigerator. Depending on the municipality the coffee station may require a grease interceptor and a floor drain. The coffee maker and the refrigerator will require a backflow preventer.
Cold Chisel – A steel hardened tool that is manufactured in various lengths and diameters with a beveled end that is used for chipping and breaking concrete, cast iron, steel and other hard material.
Combined or Combination Sewer – piping that is designed to carry both rain water with sewage. This method of evacuating waste water is being phased out around the country in favor separating the storm sewer from waste.
Composite Material – A material used to manufacture counter tops and and sinks. Composite materials usually have an acrylic base that is colored and different aggregate materials are introduced to give the surface a unique look and in some instances adds strength. Quartz composite sinks are a great example of composite material were quartz is added to give it a unique look and adds strength and resists corroding and chipping.
Compression Fittings – A kind of tubing or pipe connection where a nut, and then a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube and is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened, forming a positive grip and seal without soldering. Also a flexible connector that has a nut and gasket designed to attach directly to an SAE standard compression thread, without the use of a sleeve or ferrule.
Copper Pipe and Fittings – Copper pipe and fittings are material used in drainage, waste and vent pipe as well as potable water piping. Copper is fairly easy to work with, has excellent thermal conductive properties and it is very durable. Copper comes in a wide variety of pipe sizes and can handle water, oil and gas.
Core Toilet Rooms – A group of centrally located toilet rooms in a commercial, industrial or institutional building. These toilet rooms are usually designed to accommodate a certain number of workers or guests per floor or per area of a building. If core toilet rooms are in a multi-level building they are usually stacked on top of one another using a common wet column.
CPVC – (Chlorinated Polyethylene) – This is PVC plastic piping infused with chlorine to increase it’s temperature rating. It also improves its fire rating as well.
Cross Connection – Any connection in plumbing that allows potable water to be connected to a non potable water source. Cross connections can be a potentially serious health hazard. Here is an example of a cross connection : a good number of utility sink faucets come with a threaded hose connection at the end of the spout. This is used to attach a hose so a floor or room can be washed down. If the spout or faucet is not installed with a vacuum breaker and the hose is dropped into the utility sink filled with water and a cleaning chemical you have a cross connection.
Dip Tubes – Usually a plastic tube that is inserted into the inlet side of a domestic water heater. The tube forces the incoming water to the bottom of the heater, (closest to the heating elements) whereby the water is more evenly heated throughout the tank.
Dishwasher Air Gap – An apparatus that is usually mounted next to your faucet, either on the counter or in a knockout on the kitchen sink. This device connects from the waste outlet of the dishwasher to the airgap and from there it connects to a waste opening in the p-trap of the kitchen sink. It allows waste water to flow into the waste piping however of the waste piping should ever back up, the waste water will not back up into the dishwasher because of the aforementioned air gap. Please see our diagram for further clarification.
Dishwasher Air Gap Blow Up
Double Detector Check Valve – The double detector check assembly is installed with one (1) gate valve on the inlet of the valve and one (1) gate valve on the outlet side of the valve. These assemblies prevent back flow or back pressure in nonhazardous situations and are most used to protect the potable water system of a building from the water in a fire prevention system.
A detector check is made with a by-pass assembly and meter to detect any unauthorized or illegal taps, test cocks are also present so that required yearly testing can take place. Each check valve can be isolated and tested independently to see if they are leaking and operating properly.
Downspout Piping – Also known as storm water piping. It is the piping system that handles the discharge of rain and melted snow water to the city sewers, retention ponds, or ground level pavement or grassy areas. On the interior of buildings the piping material is usually made of cast iron, copper or PVC. When it is installed on the exterior of the building the piping material is usually sheet metal like the downspouts on a private residence.
Drain Piping Pitch (Slope) – In plumbing the grade at which the drain piping is installed to assure that the waste water flows at a speed that allows the piping to be self scouring. Meaning the turbulence and movement of the water cleans the inside of the pipe. 1/4″ per foot is a common pitch for plumbing. We like to say a lazy sewer is a good sewer, if the water is moving too fast it may move past the suspended solids leaving them behind. If enough waste is left behind you have the potential for a build up and an eventual blockage.
Drain Tile System – A system of pipe usually made of corrugated plastic, PVC or clay tile that collects subsoil drainage and allows it to dump into a sewer or water retention area. Drain tile is usually perforated to allow water to seep into the pipe and it is widely used under basement floors or under concrete footings, this keeps water from getting into basements or washing out backfilled soil. Drain tile is also used in athletic fields, farm fields and in any situations where water needs to be removed quickly.
Drainage Fittings (Cast Iron) – This a true plumbing professional term. Obviously all Drainage, Waste and Vent (DWV) are types of fittings used for drainage however cast iron drainage fittings are threaded fittings that are specifically used for drainage piping. These fittings are a dying breed and are only used in certain areas or in repair situations. These fittings are made with pitch built in to assure proper flow. Anvil Corp is one of the last companies to continue making CI drainage fittings. You can find them here. http://www.anvilintl.com/ProductSearch/ProductThumbnailView.aspx?plid=115&ptid=648
Drop in Bath Tub – A bathtub that is built with an integral lip or ledge that is meant to fit into or be dropped-into a pre-framed area that is to receive the bathtub.
Kohler “Devonshire” Drop In Bathtub
Drop-in Anchor – These are anchors that are inserted into a pre-drilled hole in concrete. The anchor has a metal cam inside that when hit or “set” flares the bottom out to secure it in the concrete. Drop-in anchors are threaded on the inside to accept all thread rod or bolts and they are commonly used in conjunction with a clevis hanger to hang piping from the underside of a deck.
Drum Traps – Very rarely used, a drum trap is a circular metal canister with the inlet near the bottom of the trap and the waste outlet is at the top with a removable cover. Ideally the drum trap is installed in a place with easy access so you can remove the cover to clean. Unfortunately many drum traps we’ve encountered are buried behind a wall or the cover is unable to be removed, fused together by time. So when drum trap stop they are extremely difficult to clear by rodding because of their inlet and outlet configuration. Drum traps were installed so people could find jewelry or valuables if lost down the drain. The trap would catch the ring or earring by sinking to the bottom, the likely hood that a valuable would flow into the waste opening at the top of the trap is highly unlikely.
Duplex Pumps (Ejector or House Pumps) – This is simply a pumping system that uses two pumps instead of one. These pumps are usually equipped with an alternator that alternates pumping cycles to minimize wear on one particular pump. The alternator can be set to alternate the pumps in a variety of ways i.e. every other cycle, every ten cycles or it can be set by usage parameters if equipped with the right controls.
Effluent – Waste material – the waste and/or waste water outflowing from a septic tank.
Ejector Pits – A round, square or rectangular pit (collection vessel) that can be made from cast iron, steel, PVC, fiberglass, concrete or clay tile. They are used in applications where the sanitary waste that flows into them is lower that the main sewer and by mean of an ejector pump(s) the waste is pumped up and out to the main sewer. They must always have a gas tight cover and be properly vented.
Ejector Pumps – A device manufactured to elevate water, sewage (suspended solids) or liquid waste from a lower level to a point of discharge where it can be drained away by gravity into a sewer or drain.
Elevated Vacuum Breaker – A vacuum breaker that is elevated off the floor at 7ft-6″. There is a very good reason it is elevated at 7ft-6″ it is above the average height of a man with his arms stretched over his head. Huh? Yep, the reason for this is a person cannot take a hose and stretch to place it above the vacuum breaker rendering the vacuum breaker useless. I know how about we just step on a chair? Whatever…that’s the reason for 7ft-6″. Elevated vacuum breakers are slowly dying.
Classic Chicago Faucet Elevated Vacuum Breaker
Epoxy Pipe Lining – Epoxy lining of plumbing pipes is used when the cost of digging and or tearing walls and ceilings apart proves to be too cost prohibitive. There are several different types of epoxy pipe lining and they are used based on application type.
Air Inversion – Air inversion pipe lining is used in waste, vent, storm and water main to repair broken piping due to ground settling, pipe deterioration, tree roots etc. It is most commonly used in pipe sizing from 4″ to 48″ in diameter. The piping is prepared by video camera inspection, then <the pipe is cleaned and scoured. The pipe is then lined using an air inversion machine. Think of tube sock with epoxy lining on the inside. It is glued on one end and air pressure pushes the sock through the pipe turning it inside out thereby placing the epoxy inside the piping. Please check out this Youtube video that shows you in detail how the process works.
Pipe Bursting – The pipe bursting method is used in underground piping i.e. concrete or clay tile where the piping is too deteriorated to repair by other methods. A very strong cable is pulled through deteriorated piping and attached to a conical pipe bursting head, attached behind the head is the new piping. As the pipe bursting head is pulled through the old piping it is being broken up and the new piping is being pulled through the old pipe bed.
Epoxy Pipe Restoration – This method is used mostly in water piping and it is most effective in pipe sizes from 1/2″ through 4″. Although some companies have different techniques most have these steps that are common for all. Drain down of water piping being restored, heated and compressed are introduced to the piping to dry pipe thoroughly. A sand slurry mixture is blown into the pipe to scour the inside of the pipe walls, knocking off any scale or oxidation. Finally the epoxy coating is blown in coating the inside of the pipe. Check out the video of CuraFlo explaining the process.
Expansion Tank – A tank usually installed on a closed hot water line used to absorb excess pressure due to thermal expansion. Because water expands when heated, the water needs a place to expand to hence the expansion tank.
These are code just about everywhere.
Express Riser – A domestic water riser is used to distribute potable water to floor levels that require potable water to function in both commercial or residential applications. For a high rise building maintaining water pressure suitable to proper fixture function is critical. An express riser is a water riser thats sole purpose is to bypass lower floors and service upper floors so adequate water pressure is maintained.
Extension Tailpiece – A length of tubular brass or PVC piping used to extend the waste on a kitchen, lavatory or service sink. Connections or usually Slip Joint or threaded.
Extra Heavy Soil Pipe – Cast iron soil has been used for drainage, waste and vent piping for hundreds of years. Extra heavy soil pipe is specified for extreme conditions and has a very high crush strength. It’s popularity has declined sharply over the last 30 years. It was not uncommon to see extra heavy soil pipe used in schools, hospitals and prisons.
Faucet Types – A faucet is any device that controls the flow of water. The most common types of faucets used in plumbing are kitchen, lavatory, bar, service sink, hose bibbs, shower valve, tub filler and yard hydrants.
Federal Plumbing Code – (Please see National Plumbing Code, BOCA, & IAPMO Uniform Plumbing Code)
Fill Valve – Most commonly referred to as a Ball Cock, the fill valve controls water to the tank of a tank type toilet. The fill valves is operated by means of a float. Most fill valves also have an anti siphon device or vacuum breaker to ensure there is no cross contamination from the water in the tank to the potable water supply.
Filtration – The process of the flow of water running through a filter medium.
Fixture Carriers – A device that is installed behind a finished wall and anchored to the floor to mount and off the floor plumbing fixtures i.e., lavatories, wall hung toilets, urinals and slop sinks. It is most commonly used in commercial and institutional applications due to increases wear and tear.
Fixture Units (Drainage) – The quantity of load producing effects a plumbing fixture has on a plumbing drainage system. The number is based on the probable discharge of waste water into the plumbing drainage system by different fixtures for a single operation and on the average time between operations. The rate of discharge through a plumbing fixture of 7.5 GPM is termed one fixture unit.
Fixture Units (Supply) – The measure of how much water a plumbing fixture needs for proper function. The plumbing valve used by a particular fixture and its function is based on the volume of water it uses on a single occasion and on the average time between operations.
Floor Cleanouts – A readily accessible opening installed in the floor off of a horizontal waste line to accommodate drain cleaning equipment to remove potential blockages.
Floor Drains – An opening in the floor used to drain potential liquid waste from the floors into the drainage system. Floor drains are most commonly seen in basements, core toilet rooms, janitor’s closets and mechanical rooms.
Floor Sinks – A receptor installed in a floor that receives drainage from indirect waste lines. Floor sinks are often glazed with porcelain or epoxy to inhibit bacterial growth and to make it easier to clean and maintain.
Flushometer Valve – There are several different type of flushometer valves on the market the diaphragm type valve invented by William Sloan and the Sloan Valve Company in 1906 is the undisputed leader in Flush valve production and market use. However all flushometers are designed to do the same thing and that is to deliver a measured amount of water to a fixture to flush out waste, i.e. a water closet or urinal. Both a diaphragm and a piston type flush valve operate by using water pressure to actuate the valve.
Flux (Plumbing) – Plumbers flux comes in the form of paste and it is brushed on copper or brass pipe and fittings to remove oxides and other coatings for the metals before joining. Oxides make soldering difficult. Upon heating the pipe/fittings and flux, the flux will clean and float away any oxides or particulates.
Friction (Water Piping) – It is the resistance between to objects in contact with one another. In a water piping system it is the friction that occurs between water and the walls of the piping. Water that comes in contact with the walls of the pipe actually moves slower than water in the center of the piping. We call that friction loss in the piping trades.
Friction Clamps/Riser Clamps – A friction or riser clamp is used in the plumbing and mechanical trades to support vertical piping at each floor. The hanger device is place around the piping and tightened with bolts which prevents the piping from slipping. Riser clamps have wings or ears that extend out from the pipe to span the opening in the floor to accommodate the piping being braced.
The Riser Clamp is one of the most used pipe hangers in construction.
Frost Proof Hose Bibbs or Sillcocks – A faucet that delivers water to locations (usually outside) for watering landscaping or grass, washing vehicles or general cleaning. When the hose bibb is designated as “Frost Proof” it is usually has an apparatus which allows ice to expand without damaging the unit or connected supply piping.
Futures (Vent, water and waste) – Futures in plumbing are fittings and or piping installed and capped to accommodate “future” plumbing expansions. i.e. an office building is being built and the owner is taking the entire space. However, at some point the owner may want to divide the building to accommodate possible tenants or expansion of existing office space. Futures would minimize the contruction to rehab, expand or reconfigure the existing plumbing systems.
Garabage Disposals – An electrically powered plumbing appliance installed on the outlet of a kitchen sink that is used to grind up leftover organic waste so it is easily rinsed away by LOTS OF WATER. Garbage disposal are manufactured in several different price points which include better build quality, sound deadening materials and features. Commercial versions are also available.
Gas Piping – The piping used to deliver propane or natural gas to a home and it’s gas powered appliances in the home i.e. stove, oven, and clothes dryer.
Gate Valves – The gate valve is typically operated by a wheel handle and that handle lifts and lowers a metal disc or wedge cutting off or opening the flow of water. A gate valve should not be used to throttle or regulate the flow of water. Gate valves are usually described as rising stem sometimes called an OS&Y (Outside Screw and Yoke) or non-rising stem.
Nibco OS&Y Valve
OS&Y valves are used in situations were it is beneficial and sometimes safer to be able to see if the valve is in the open or closed position by seeing whether the stem is visible or fully seated.
Nicbo Non Rising Stem Gate Valve
General Liability Insurance (GL Insurance) – A standard insurance policy issued to businesses but in this case plumbing and mechanical businesses to protect against liability claims generating from the operations the business performs this includes employee negligence. This is usually coupled with Workers Compensation Insurance to form a firms commercial insurance package.
G.P.M. – (Gallons Per Minute) A unit of measurement used by plumbing material manufacturers to convey performance or measure capacities of a fixture, water piping and or waste piping.
Gravity Sewers – All sewers work by by gravity. However this term is used by plumbers to describe a house drain which runs under the basement floor and receives the discharge from soil, waste and other drainage from pipes within the building. It is almost always used to describe a sewer when a home is affected by sewage backing up from the city sewer during extreme rain fall. The solution to a gravity sewer would be to run the sewer over head. (See Over Head Sewers)
Gray Water – is defined as water generated by sinks, showers, bathtubs and clothes washers. It does not contain waste water from water closets, urinals, kitchen sinks or waste from dishwashers.
Gray Water Waste Pipe System – Is the piping and storage system that collects waste water generated from hand sinks, showers, bathtubs and clothes washers. Because over 60% of all household water usage can be labelled as gray water systems have been developed to recycle this water and reuse. Graywater piping is purple in color so it will standout amongst other piping systems.
There are three separate steps in the graywater recycling process and they are as follows:
Collection – Graywater and black water wastes systems are piped separately. The graywater is harvested is storage tanks.
Treatment – Depending on the use the waste water is filtered. There are a multitude of ways to implement the filtration process but the most common is using physical media.
Disinfection – The filtered graywater is disinfected using UV, chlorination or iodine or a combination of the aforementioned.
Grease Traps or Grease Separator – A device designed to cause separation and retention of oil and/or grease from liquid wastes. Grease separators are most commonly used in commercial kitchens, restaurants or apartment buildings. Periodic grease removal maintenance needs to be done in order to maintain performance levels.
Green Plumbing – Is any type of plumbing that promotes conservation of water and or electricity.
Gray Water
Low Consumption Plumbing Fixtures
Rain Water Harvesting
Solar Hot Water
Tankless or Self Condensing Hotwater
Waterless Urinals
Hair Separator or Hair Trap – these are installed on lavatories or sinks in beauty salons or barber shops and they catch link or hair from entering the waste piping. They are equipped with a removable basket that must be cleaned regularly to maintain proper flow. They also have a secondary purpose as they safeguard against losing jewelry if dropped down the drain.
Hand Held Shower with Slide Bar – A shower head that is attached to a flexible hose and can be moved up or down on a stationary slide bar or removed from a holder and used to rinse the hair and body. Originally designed as necessary item for the elderly and handicapped it has now become a premium upgrade in home showers.
Hand or Sink Auger – This is a coiled flexible cable that is contained inside a metal cannister and has a self feeding auger bit to dig through blockages in small diameter piping. The cannister is usually equipped with a handle and a knob so you can turn the rod cleaning the pipe of debris.See the full sink auger definition.
Hard Water – Hard water is a condition caused by minerals dissolved in water. There are many minerals that can be dissolved in water but the primary are Calcium and Magnesium. 85% of the water in the U.S is considered hard water. Some of the symptoms a homeowner will experience if they have hard water will be spots on their dishware, rings around the bathtub, scale build-up on shower heads and aerators on sink faucets. Hard water also reacts with cleaning products and detergents reducing it’s effectiveness. Hard water treatment comes in several forms the most common is an ion exchange based water softener.
Head Pressure – It is the difference in elevation between two points of water expressed in weight of a given height of a column of water. The pressure at the bottom of the column of water is greater than at the top of the column and that pressure is independent of the volume of water present. For instance the “head pressure” of a column of water that is 15ft high in a 3″ pipe is the same as if the pipe were 3ft in diameter.
Heat Exchanger – A heat exchanger is an apparatus such as coiled copper or stainless steel tubing that is submerged in a tank of water. That coil is used to transfer the heat from the liquid in the tubing to the water in the tank by way of the metal surface.
Heat Traps – On water heaters a heat trap allows cold water to flow into the the heater but prevents hot water from flow out of the tank when not in use. Having heat traps provides energy cost savings by preventing heated water from escaping the tank so it doesn’t have to be brought up to temperature again.
Hoar Frost – In plumbing it is the frost that forms on vent stacks from water vapor coming in direct contact with air that is below freezing. The thought is that with continual sub freezing temperatures that layer upon layer of hoar frost can eventually close off vent stacks compromising the proper function of the waste system in a home or building.
Hose Bibbs or Sillcocks – A faucet that delivers water to locations (usually outside) for watering landscaping or grass, washing vehicles or general cleaning.
Hot Tap – The process of tapping into water main or water supply line while the line is still active and in use. The process was developed to minimize down time to other homeowners or building tenants during maintenance, rehab or new construction. The alternative to hot tapping or pressure tapping would be to shut down and drain down the affected section of piping so the work could be completed.
Hot Water Return Piping – Hot water return piping is piping connecting the end of a run of plumbing fixtures and/or appliances back to a hot water source i.e. a water heater or boiler. Most times a hot water return line is installed with a recirculating pump to insure hot water is always recirculating through the hot water supply piping. Keeping hot water recirculating through the line dramatically cuts down on the time it takes to get hot water to a fixture. The average family wastes 12,000 gallons per year waiting for hot water.
House Drain – The House Drain is the lowest part of the drainage system piping that receives all of the soil and waste discharge from other drainage piping within a home or building and discharges it to the house sewer that begins 5ft outside of the building.
House Pumps (Domestic Water Booster Pumps) Variable Frequency or constant speed. Uses in commercial and residential. Most plumbing fixtures and equipment need a minimum amount of water pressure to function properly, a house pump or booster pump takes incoming water and increases the pressure to accommodate the water demands of a private residence or a commercial building.
House Sewer – The part of the horizontal piping of a plumbing or drainage system that extends from the house drain to it’s connection with the main sewer or other place of sewage disposal. So the piping that connects the interior sewer to it’s connection to the municipal sewer.
House Trap – Although there are many homes that still have a house trap in use they are generally frowned upon. A house trap is a trap installed on the house drain to prevent sewer gases and vermin from entering a residence or commercial building. The biggest issues with house traps are that if the trap is ever compromised the entire building is susceptible to sewer gases.
Hub and Spigot Soil Pipe – Hub and spigot soil pipe is usually made of cast iron and is used in sanitary drain, waste and vent, sewer and storm drainage applications. The pipe and fittings have a bell on one end and are plain on the other. The plain end is inserted into the bell or spigot end and the joint is sealed using a rubber soil gasket or braided oakum and lead.
Hydraulic Pressure – The pressure applied by a liquid against an object. Most liquids cannot be compressed into a small area like air can. Therefore when a liquid is applying pressure to an object the liquid will find it’s way around the object or if need be through the object.
IAPMO Plumbing Code ( The International Association of Plumbing and Mechnical Offiicials) or UPC (Universal Plumbing Code) – This is the most update and accurate set of current plumbing practices, it is produced by plumbers and mechanical engineers. It includes installations for potable water, building water supply and distribution, waste drainage and vent piping, sewer mains and plumbing fixtures. It also defines material and code approved joining methods.
Ice Maker – A plumbing appurtenance that can be stand alone or part of a refrigerator and is used to make ice for beverages or for therapeutic uses. An ice maker needs both a water connection and a waste connection for the discharge of condensate waste.
Indirect Waste Pipe – Waste piping from a plumbing fixture or appurtenance that isn’t connected directly to the waste drainage system of a home or building but instead it drains into the drainage system through an air gap and into a fixture, interceptor or receptacle like a floor sink which is properly trapped and vented.
Instantaneous Water Heaters – An instantaneous water can be broken down into the following two categories.
Point of Use – A point of use water heater is installed at or near a plumbing fixture or battery of fixtures and it used to service those fixtures alone. Their capacity to flash heat water is limited. They are mainly used in situations where it is too difficult to tie into and existing hot water source or a small bathroom or sink has been added and has a limited need for hot water.
Tankless Water Heaters – Both of these heaters are tankless however, when someone refers to a tankless water heater they usually mean a high capacity heater used to serve multiple locations in a home or business.
A tankless heater flash heats water on demand by pulling water through a heat exchanger. There is no hot water storage although one can be added if the application calls for additional capacity. Tankless heaters are generally thought of to be much more efficient than traditional tank type water heaters. However, real world use has clouded that belief.
International Plumbing Code or IPC – The International Plumbing Code was first adopted in 1995 and it was really a combined effort as representatives from BOCA, ICBO and the SBCCI were all used to produce an all inclusive set of rules and regulations based on existing model codes.
The IPC was established to set standards to adequately protect the public health and safety but not necessarily increase the cost of building and fabrication.
There are several states and municipalities that have adopted the IPC as their plumbing code. The IPC can be adopted internationally.
Invert – The lowest point of the inside of any type of horizontal waste, vent or water piping.
Invert Elevation – Closely associated with the above, the invert elevation is really the cornerstone elevation for the mechanical and in particular the plumbing trade. It is the lowest inside point of any pipe at a certain location. Knowing invert elevations are extremely important for laying out waste piping runs. Mistakes can cause mistakes ranging from sewer piping not having enough pitch to waste piping being removed because it is above the ground or hanging below a drop ceiling.
Iron Filter Tank – Any device that removes disolved or undissolved iron from potable drinking water. Some smaller units can be installed in line with your water main and need to be maintained by changing a removable media. There are also iron filters that can handle removing iron for the whole house using media that can be recharged relieving the homeowner of having to change the filter once a month. See Charger Water Treatment for their solutions on treating potable drinking water.
Island Vent – (See Loop Vent)
Isolation Valves – Any type of valve installed on the potable water system that isolates a section of a building, a battery of bathrooms or plumbing mechnical equipment i.e. a house pump. Isolation valves allow plumbers positively shut down the water supply to the aforementioned so work can be performed without shutting down the water supply to the entire building.
J-Hooks – J type hooks are used in just about every industry. In the plumbing industry they are made of plastic, steel or copper plated and come in different sizes to accommodate different sized pipe. They look like the letter “J” and are usually nailed or screwed into a wooden or steel joist to hang waster, vent and water piping.
Kitchen Sink Faucet with a Pull-Out Spray – Kitchen sink faucets are manufactured with or without a spray mechanism. In the last 20 years most of the faucet manufacturers have come out with kitchen faucets with a sprayer that pulls out from the spout. The spray head will have a function button that when depressed will switch the function between hard spray or aerated flow. Since their inception they have become extremely popular due to the fact that you don’t have to have a side spray taking up space on the faucet deck to have the same functionality.
Lavatories – See plumbing fixtures
Lead – A soft and extremely heavy metal was used in almost every aspect of the plumbing industry at one time or another. Most major cities in the US used water services made of lead piping because of its durability and malleability. Using lead for piping went out of favor in the 80’s due to fear of lead leeching. Until very recently lead was being used in trace amount for faucets, flush valves, hose bibbs etc., however stricter laws have made using lead illegal. There is one area where lead is used and it’s only in certain places around the country and that is for yarning and pouring joints on cast iron waste piping.
Lead Flashings – thin sheets of lead used to water proof vent stacks through the roof. A tube of lead is made slightly larger in diamter than the piping being flashed, that tube is welded on to flat piece of lead. The lead flashing is installed over the vent through roof increaser and the end of the lead is pounded down inside the piping. The roofing material is placed over the flashing and around the pipe and is sealed. Vent flashings are also made of rubber membrane.
Lead Pan – Lead pans have been used in plumbing for a number of reasons. As a durable malleable material to use to water proof a shower or mop basin where stone or tile is being used as flooring, as a drain pan used to catch water from a water heater should it start to leak. You being with a flat piece of sheet lead
Lead Pick – This a tool that looks like an awl, with a metal tip bent at a 90° angle or like a hook, that is used while drilling out an old lead joint, to pick out the loose lead and oakum.
Lead Pot and Ladel – Used primarily to pour lead and oakum joints for waste and vent piping. A lead pot is made of cast iron and lots similar to a cooking pot. It is made to sit securely on top of furnace that attaches to plumbers propane tank. Lead is placed inside the lead pot and is heated until melted. A cast iron ladel is used to extact the molten lead from the pot so it can be poured into a hub. Molten lead does not stick to cast so it can be poured easily.
Lead Water Services – Lead was the material of choice for water services in all major municipalities until the end of the 1960’s. Because lead is malleable and utterly non-corrosive it was a go to for plumbers for the better part of a century. It wasn’t until we became aware of the harmful effects of lead poisoning that lead services were discontinued. The funny things about lead water services is that a hard scale barrier forms over the piping exposed to potable water so quickly that there is no measurable leeching however I suppose it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Liquid Waste – Any liquid discharge from a plumbing fixture that does not contain human or animal waste matter.
Loop Vent – Some times this is referred to as an island vent because if you do vent your island you’d use a loop vent. A island loop vent begins at the discharge from island sink using a sanitary tee. The vent rises up above the discharge of the drain then drops back down and connects back to the drainage system below the floor. A loop vent in a commercial application has a different meaning; it is a single vent pipe connected to the horizontal drainage piping that receives the discharge from one or more unvented fixtures. The single vent pipe rises above the overflow level of the highest unvented fixture and the single vent is connected back to the vent stack. Basically this is a way to vent a battery of fixtures using a single vent pipe.
Main Pipe – The central pipe line to which all other branches are connected. This covers all plumbing piping systems i.e. waste, vent and water piping.
Man Hole – A circular cover usually manufactured from cast iron that is part of a larger concrete structure used for easy excess to any number of below grade plumbing equipment. i.e. below ground valves, ejector or grinder pumps. A manhole can also be used as an access point for rodding and drain cleaning equipment on storm and sewer lines.
Mechanical Joints – definition, materials used, types of mechanical joints. Any type of pipe and fitting joining method that ensures a water tight seal using the following: gaskets, couplings, grooved fittings and couplings, nuts and bolts, etc. The following are examples of mechanical joints:
No-Hub Couplings
Mission Couplings
Victaulic Grooved Fittings and Couplings
Gruvlok Grooved Fittings and Couplings
Flanged Fittings using nuts, bolts and gasket kits.
Mechanics Lien – A form of legal protection afforded to contractors and suppliers obtained as collateral against unpaid bills. When enforced any real estate or property such as a home or commercial building can be sold to pay off past due bills. As a mechanical contractor you should always protect your lien rights. The time for filing an Intent to Lien is different from state to state but usually you have 90 days from the performance of work to file an Intent to Lien. Once that time passes you will be forced to litigate but your lien rights will expire.
Mini-Widespread Faucet – A style of lavatory faucet that has a separate spout and handles but fits on a lavatory with a 4″ spread and opposed to a widespread faucet which fits on a lavatory with an 8″ spread.
Mixing Valve – A plumbing valve that mixes hot and cold water and delivers them at a specific temperature.
Molded Stone – Molded stone is most commonly used for laundry tubs and it is really used to describe a fiberglass product impregnated with a calcium resin. It’s extremely durable while being low cost. Consumers may think the term molded stone is misleading however it’s a term that has been used in the plumbing industry for decades.
Mop Basins – See plumbing fixtures
National Plumbing Code – This is a standard code book for the plumbing industry that covers BOCA (Building Officials and Code Administrator International) and UPC codes highlighting specifications and best practices and procedures for installation and standard plumbing materials
Nipples -A short piece of pipe threaded on both ends used to join two threaded fittings.
No Hub Soil Pipe – A type of pipe normally made of cast iron, without hubs, joined with no hub couplings
Oakum:
White Oakum – Hemp fibers treated with bentonite a type of drilling mud that expands when exposed to liquids. It is the preferred oakum used in yarning and pouring cast iron hub and spigot joints because when water enters the joint it expands making the seal water tight.
Brown Oakum – Hemp fibers that have been treated with petroleum based pitch to make it water resistant. It is much more difficult to work with in hub and spigot joints because it doesn’t compact like white oakum.
Open Site Drain – A trap, fixture, drain or interceptor that receives waste from a plumbing fixture by way of an indirect connection through an air gap. This allows for a fixture to drain however, if the drain experiences a backup the waste will not back-up into the fixture itself. It will spill on to a floor so as not to contaminate the fixture. An example of a fixture that would use an open site drain would be kitchen prep sink.
Organic – Any substance pertaining to something living. Substance must contain carbon.
Over Head Sewers – A sewer in a building or home that receives all waste and is piped in a basement ceiling. The sewer exits the building over head and then drops down outside the building to a municipal sewer. Although all sewers drain by gravity this differs from a gravity sewer in that all waste from a gravity sewer runs underneath a basement floor and out of the building.
Overflow roof drains – See PlumbingMechanical Equipment
Pathogenic – Any material capable of causing disease or containing bacteria or viruses.
PCA (Plumbing Contractor Association) – The Plumbing Contractors Association of Chicagoland is one of the old trade association in the United States. It includes representation from both Labor Management and Contractors and promotes the highest standards of the plumbing craft and supports the training of plumbing tradesmen and apprentices. They also keep members up to date on the latest trends in the industry.
Pex Plastic Water Piping and Fittings – PEX (cross linked polyethylene) is a type of flexible tubing used for potable water in homes and commercial buildings. PEX was originally used for radiant heating inside concrete floors. When PEX was first introduced there were numerous complaints that it deteriorated over time. It was discovered that the chlorine used to disinfect potable water attacked and slightly deteriorated the material. Since then improvements have been made to alleviate those issues.Currently PEX is approved for use all across the US for potable water. Because of PEX’s flexibility it is the choice for home improvement and DIYers. It’s easy to install and you don’t have to be perfect with your measurements. We call it garden hose in the wall because it isn’t a pretty install but it works and works well. Because of the improvements in PEX manifolds you can literally control water to every fixture in the house or building. Gone are the day of shutting the entire water down to fix one leaky lavatory or toilet.
PHCC – (Plumbing Heating Cooling Contractors Association) – In 1883 125 members formed the National Association of Master Plumbers (NAMP) which was the forerunner to the PHCC which was officially formed in 1962. Now the PHCC is comprised of 125 charter organizations encompassing 3,300 union and open shop businesses. The PHCC is dedicated to furthering education and professional excellence throughout the mechanical trades.
Pipe Condensation – Cold water lines attract moisture from the air just like a cold glass of water attracts moisture on a warm summer day. If enough condensation forms on the cold water piping it can drip down on to ceiling tiles, desks etc. causing damage. Cold water lines are frequently insulated to shield the piping from the air surrounding the piping. Insulation can also absorb any potential condensation preventing potential damage.
Pipe Insulation – Insulation made of foam or fiberglass that wraps around domestic water piping to eliminate condensation from forming and possibly dropping on ceilings or people below.
Pipe Labeling – Quite oftenIn commercial buildings the building specifies that all piping must be identified with labels. This makes is easier for the building engineers or service contractors to identify what they are working on. Certain pipes have readily identifiable colors for instance Domestic Cold Water is printed on a green label with an arrow to denote flow direction, Domestic Hot Water is printed on a yellow label with an arrow to denote flow direction. Pipe labels are not exclusive to water piping. Waste, Vent and mechanical water piping are also labelled as well.
Plumbing Council of Chicagoland – The PCA and plumbing council were once two different organizations. The Plumbing Council was responsible for the collection of monies from the industry fund responsible for advertising the union plumbing industry in Chicago. The PCA is an entity comprised of signatory contractors that negotiate with the union for wage increases and education. Recently they have combined staffs and resources and work together for the common good of the industry.
Plumbing Fixtures – Gosh it’s tough for us to define this term because it’s so outdated. We’ll give it a shot, it’s a device, appliance or “appurtenance” that is hooked up or installed to the potable water system which makes the potable water available to flush liquids or liquid born wastes either directly or indirectly into the waste system.
Plumbing Mechanical Equipment
Some may disagree with how some of these are defined but for this site each of the following will be referred to as plumbing mechanical equipment: Coffee Makers
Define boilers, types, uses Water Heaters – (Please see Water Heaters here) No need to define it again. You can read all about it in the link
House or Booster Pumps – A house or booster pump is connected to the incoming domestic water line and raises the pressure of the water to the building. In a homes across the US the water pressure is too low to ensure proper function of the plumbing fixtures and equipment so a booster pump is installed. These can be simple or complex. Meaning there are pumps that you can turn on when extra demand is called for or they are automatic and turn on when extra demand is needed. In commercial (Hi-Rise) or industrial building the incoming water pressure can be adequate however because of the size and demand of the building the pressure will diminishes as it gets to the fixtures. The plumbing fixtures closest to the incoming water main will function fine but as you get further and further away from the source the water pressure goes down. The booster pump will ensure all fixtures and equipment have adequate pressure. These booster systems are usually designed by an engineer using specifications denoting how much water is needed.
Ice Maker – This is going to be real simple. It’s an appliance that turns potable water into ice for beverages or for therapeutic purposes. Ice makers come in many sizes and shapes but they can be divided into two basic types. Consumer versions that most commonly built into a refrigerator and commercial which is usually stand alone and produces high volumes of ice.
Plumbing Trap – A fitting placed in a drain line from a plumbing fixture for the purpose of holding water or other fluid to form a trap seal that prevents the passage of gases, odors or vermin from the drain pipe into the building. Click on the link for a much more detailed account of Plumbing Traps.
Plumbing Valve – is any valve used to regulate the flow of water in a potable or human waste water system.
Point of Use Water Heaters – A point of use water heater is usually of tankless design however some do hold some water. These heaters are made to be used for a single fixture or a battery of fixtures at a single location. Point of use water heaters are usually powered by electricity rather than gas.
Power Jetter – A power jetter takes water from a water supply either from a home, building or a self contained source and cranks up the pressure via a motor of some kind. The water pressure is further increased by the type of nozzle at the end of the jetter hose. Power jetters come in many different sizes and configurations. You can use small walk behind units that can double as power washers or they can be tow behind units that are much more powerful and can be used in a variety of applications or they literally be full trucks with their own water source. Each type of jetter has their place in the plumbing service space. For can find more on topic on my sewer rodding and jetting article.
Power Rodder – A rodder or auger consists of a tightly coiled steel cable (think of a very long, very strong spring) usually made in precut lengths or coiled in self contained canisters. instead of you doing the cranking to remove a blockage a motor either rotates the coil using jaws. These are usually used when a simple canister auger or tape auger won’t do the trick. They come in a variety of sizes and types mostly based on the type of job. Most service plumbing contractors have a variety of units at their disposal.
Pressure Assisted Toilets – When Sloan invented the Flushmate it was like a skies opened and we were given a gift from the plumbing Gods. Sloan’s engineers manufactured a pressurized tank to fit inside the toilet tank. As water enters the tank it pressurizes the air inside it and then a valve closes. Now you have a tank filled with pressurized water. When you engage the tank lever the air pushes the water into the bowl evacuating the contents. The Flushmate was the first product designed for pressure assisted toilets and it was used in many manufacturers pressure assisted line. Recently several companies have designed their own pressure assisted systems.
Priming a P-trap – If a trap of any kind isn’t used for some time the water that seals the trap can become foul or evaporate letting in unwanted sewer gas into a room or building. Priming the trap is the act of refilling the water in trap creating a trap seal.
PVC Plastic Pipe and Fittings – PVC plastic is formally known as Polyvinyl Chloride. It is strong, smooth and cost effective and it is code approved for waste and vent throughout the United States.
PVD Finishes – Stands for Physical Vapor Deposition, it is a metal plating process performed in vacuum chamber. The process allows metals to adhere to a base metal and is much more durable than traditional electo-plating. Most finishes produced by the major plumbing manufacturers are now PVD finishes and they are usually guaranteed for life.
Private Sewer – Any sewer that serves one or more buildings that is privately owned and is not directly controlled or maintained by a public entity.
Public Sewer – Any common sewer controlled and maintained by a city, county, state or federal government.
Radiant Heat – In plumbing or HVAC radiant heat is a closed loop system. flexible piping is run underneath the floor in concrete or through guides. The water or freeze proof liquid (depending on application) is warmed by a boiler or water heater. The heat radiates from below warming a room or melting the snow if used in drive way.
Rate of Flow – This is a term used to describe the volume of moving water as it related to a time period. The most common measurement used in plumbing is gallons per minute (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH).
Re-circulating Pump
Repair Flanges
Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration
Roll Groove
Roman Tub Filler Roof Drain – a roof drain is a plumbing appurtenance installed on a building roof, inside a gutter or in a parapet wall to receive rain water. The water is routed to the building or structures downspout piping and discharged to a storm sewer or is allowed to splash on the ground. Please check your local plumbing codes to find out acceptable methods for the discharge of rain water.
Rough-in
RPZ (Reduced Pressure Zone)
Sand and Sediment Separators
Syphonic roof drains
Sanitary Sewer – A house drain or a house sewer designed and used to remove only sewage. Storm water need not apply. Believe it or not there are places around the country that separate the storm and sewage systems in a building only to let them combine outside the building to a combined sewer.
Septic Tank – A tank designed to receive raw sewage. Through aerobic and anaerobic bacterial action and sedimentation the sewage is allowed to break down. After a period of detention the remaining liquid is allowed to discharge into the soil.
Sewage – A combination of water carried wastes from a residence, business buildings, institutional and industrial buildings together with ground surface and storm water.
Sewer Camera and Locator
Shower Head
Slip Joint
Sloan Flush Mate
Sludge
Soaker Tub
Soft Water
Soil Pipe – Any piping which transports the discharges of one of more water closets or bedpan washers with or without the discharge from other fixtures to the house drain.
Solder
Solder Joints – types, uses (How To)
Spanner Flanges
Stand Pipe –
Steam Generators
Steel Pipe and Fittings
Storm Piping
S-Traps
Sub-Soil Drain – The part of the drainage system which transports subsoil ground or seepage water to the house drain or house sewer. (Most times it’s called drain tile.)
Suds Zone
Sump Check Valves
Sump Pits
Sump Pumps
Sump Silent Check Valves
Suspended Solids – The solid waste material held afloat or suspended in the transport medium in this case it’s water.
Sustaining Hinge Check
Syphonic roof drains –
T&P Valves – A relief valve used on tanks or vessels that is activated by too much temperature(T) or too much pressure (P)
Tempering Valves – A valve used to control temperature to a constant temperature. These valves are mechanical in nature meaning a temperature can be set with a set and locked in and won’t allow any more hot water through the valve. Hot and cold water flow is controlled by the internal ports.
Thermal Expansion – The expansion of water or material from heat
Thermostatic Mixing Valves – A pressure balanced valve used to control temperature of water based on both the hot and cold water supply temperatures and changes in water pressure. A valve that is pressure balanced only operates on just that….pressure
Toilets – A plumbing fixture designed to receive human excrement from the user of the fixture to the sanitary sewer system.
Trap – A device for a plumbing drain, sewer, etc. consisting of a tubular bend in which a liquid settles a forms a seal preventing sewer gasses, vermin, stench from coming back into a building.
Trap Primers – A device used to prime a p-trap, preventing the evaporation of water form the trap
Trap Weir- The highest point of water held in a trap (either p-trap or s-trap) before it leaves the trap and drains
Trapeze Pipe Hanger
Two Hole Pipe Straps
Unistrut
United Association (UA)
Urinals – A plumbing fixture that is flushed by potable water that is designed to receive human urine, the discharge is disposed into the sanitary system.
UV Purification
Vacuum Breakers
Velocity – The rate of speed at which water moves through piping. It is measured in feet per second.
Valve Tags
Vent Increaser – Why they’re used. Controversy on their usefulness
Vent Piping
Vent Stack
Vibration Isolation
Vitreous China
Wafer Check Valve – A wafer style check valve is obviously a check valve that is used when space constraints won’t allow traditional check valves to be used. Some of the other benefits of using a wafer check is weight, this style of check doesn’t need as much support as it’s traditional full body counterpart.
A wafer valve is made using a thin disc that can be fastened in the center or the top or can be spring loaded in the center.
This valve is meant to placed between two flanged fittings and secured between the two fittings with all thread rod. The valve is notched in the same positions as the bolt pattern of the flanges so the rod can pass by the valve. The valve is secured at both ends by the flanges.
Storm drains provide a useful service by functioning as a drainage system. They direct excess water away and into a sewer system when it rains, to keep your yard, roads, and other areas from flooding.
Where Are Storm Drains Installed?
Storm drains can refer to the yard drains you have around your home, as well as the grated and open curb drains you see at crosswalks, street corners, or other such places. If you have an in-ground pool, you will have storm drains to help keep the pool from overflowing.
What Are Storm Drains Used For?
Storm drains collect excess freshwater and move it through a sewer system to a location where it will help prevent flooding. In some cities, they have water collection basins that are connected to storm drainage systems. These basins might be empty during dry spells, but, when it rains for several days, they can start to fill up.
Around your home, you can have storm drains installed to drain away the water that is collected in your gutters and downspouts. This is to prevent water from pooling and flooding next to the foundation of your home. This type of storm drain system directs the water away from the home out into the yard. Sometimes, it can also be connected to the city storm drain system.
How Does a Storm Drainage System Work?
The concept and structure of a storm drainage system are fairly simple. There is a drain pipe connected to another pipe, called the termination pipe, that routes water away from the location where it enters the storm drain.
Some storm drains have grated or mesh covers to prevent larger objects from getting into the system. Other storm drains do not have any covers, which can allow leaves, trash, waste, and other debris to get into the system.
The drainage system can flow into reservoirs, rivers, streams, lakes, or reclamation facilities. For example, some cities collect all storm drain water and use it to water public parks and flowers. This water is not safe to drink or play in because it is not treated water.
In cases where the drain water is directed into another fresh body of water, there can be potential environmental and pollution issues. If you have ever seen trash, tires, toys, and other waste in a local river or lake, chances are it got there from an uncovered storm drain system.
What Causes Storm Drains to Clog?
One of the most common causes of storm drain clogs is from natural debris. Leaves, branches, twigs, grass clippings, sand, dirt, rocks, and leaves can all get trapped on top of drains in screens and grates. If they are not removed, the drainage of water can be completely stopped. If this occurs, then the drain water will start to rise and flood the area since it cannot go down the drain.
Another cause for clogged drains is when excessively large objects get into the drainage system. With uncovered drains, it is easier for large objects to get into the system. However, there can be other grates and screens underground that also work to filter out debris. If these are blocked by larger objects, they can cause a backup of drain water, especially during heavy downpours.
Furthermore, plastic bags, fast food containers, plastic bottles, food, aluminum cans, cardboard containers, and other such waste materials can create clogs in storm drains. Many of these items are not biodegradable and slowly accumulate in the system over time.
Additionally, tree roots can cause storm drain clogs. Tree roots can grow through certain types of drain pipes to reach the water they need. Initially, the tree roots are not that big. Over the years, as the tree grows, the roots also grow bigger. Eventually, the roots can become so big, it can block the drainage pipe completely.
How to Help Keep Trash and Waste Out of Storm Drains
It is important to do what you can around your home or business to prevent trash and other waste from getting into city storm drains. Some of the more common things you can do include:
Always keep a lid on trash cans and recycling bins.
Pick up any loose trash you notice in your yard or the side of the road near your home or business.
Volunteer to clean up trash alongside city streets.
Avoid using pesticides and fertilizers on your yard and plants.
Collect grass clippings for a compost pile instead of blowing them out into the street.
Never rake leaves into the street, unless your city has a leaf collection program and it is okay to do so.
Never leave pet waste lying around, as it contains harmful bacteria.
Never pour oil, antifreeze, and other such fluids into storm drains.
What Maintenance Needs to Be Done to Storm Drain Systems
Just like other plumbing systems, storm drains do require regular drain service maintenance. The type of maintenance that needs to be performed will vary based on the location and type of storm drain system.
Home Storm Drainage System Maintenance
To prevent clogged storm drains around your home, you should get into the habit of doing the following preventative maintenance:
Inspect drain covers weekly for debris and clean covers if needed.
If you notice a cover is broken or has come off, have it repaired or replaced.
If your home has gutters and downspouts, clean the gutter in the fall and in the spring to keep smaller-sized twigs and leaves from getting into the system.
Install screen covers over gutters to keep out leaves and prevent clogs.
Once a year, perform storm drain service yourself or by calling your local plumbing company. Storm drain service requires to do a detailed cleaning of the drainage system by doing the following:
Remove drain covers. You may need to hunt around for these if you haven’t been doing your regular preventative maintenance. Once you locate them, remove any debris from the screens or grates before taking the covers off.
Clean out any excess debris inside the drain pipes. Remove as much debris as you can by simply reaching into the pipe and pulling it out. You can also use a shop vac to help suck up the debris since it can be used for both wet and dry debris.
Inspect where the sewer drain terminates. The termination location will vary whether your system drains into the yard or is connected to your city’s sewer system. If your system drains into the yard, look for drainage caps. These caps only open when water is flowing out of them, so you will need to carefully remove them and check for debris in the pipes.
Flush the drain pipes. Once all the drain covers and termination covers have been removed, you need to flush out the entire system. Take a garden hose and insert it into the first storm drain entrance. Turn the water on and check the termination side to see if the water is flowing out. Wait until the water flows clearly and there is no more debris coming out the termination pipe. Repeat the process for each storm drain.
Replace the storm drain and termination covers. After you have flushed the system, reinstall the covers.
If you notice there is a clogged drain, and water is not flowing as fast as it should out the termination pipe, you will need to call your plumber for water jetting or other drain cleaning services to remove the clog.
City Storm Drainage System Maintenance
Most cities will take care of their own storm drain system maintenance. However, there are things you can do too. You can make sure that any drain covers next to your home or business are not clogged with debris.
You can also pick up leaves, branches, and other debris that accumulate in front of storm drains on street curbs to help keep the drains clear. If you notice a city storm drain is backing up, call your local city’s water management office and notify them of the problem.
Storm drains provide a valuable service by directing excess rainwater away from homes and businesses. They also keep streets from flooding. By taking the time to perform regular storm drain maintenance around your home or business, you can help avoid clogged drains and other storm drain system problems.
Pipes that leak are a danger to your home and family. Leaky pipes can stem from a number of issues that, if not remedied quickly, can cause serious problems within the house. If you want to protect your household and belongings from harm, it is important that you keep your pipes and other plumbing pieces in working order.
Here is what you need to know about leaky pipes:
Common Causes of Leaky Pipes
Deterioration & Shifting
Fixtures within the household are bound to get used and worn over time. Pipes, drainage, and other parts of the plumbing system will even begin to breakdown—and that can cause rusting and leaking from multiple locations. While the dripping might only be once or twice per minute, that can add up in the long run and damage the surrounding areas.
Temperature
Hot and cold changes in the pipeline can cause cracking and bursting in the pipes, especially when the outside temperature fluctuates. Any frozen water can expand the pipes and even lead to bursts. During the summer, you might find that there is leaking that wasn’t there the previous year.
Clogging
With plumbing comes clogging—it’s just the natural way of things—especially when things like hair, grease, soap, and other objects are being shuttled into the pipes. Once a clog begins to form, drains and sinks are going to drain much more slowly. This might cause water to leak out of joints in the plumbing.
Water Pressure
If plumbing is not installed correctly, or the pressure in the pipes is not regulated, this can cause cracking and breaks in the line. You should have a pressure regulated installed to keep pressure even.
Poor Workmanship
Although it is less common to have a plumb piece together your pipes poorly, sometimes those who have DIYed their plumbing will find more leaking than usual. Most of the time, leaks are caused by improperly secured joints, loose fittings, inappropriate materials, and so on.
Leaky Pipe Problems
Even the smallest of cracks can become a serious plumbing problem, so keep your eyes open and do routine maintenance. If you don’t know what to look for, then you should hire a professional plumber to inspect your home for any damages.
Remember, leaky pipes can cause a number of problems within the household. If leaks are not found quickly, the water can pool or seep into the woodwork. This can result in mold, warping, stained walls, flooding, and other issues that can be rather expensive to repair. Even if it seems inconvenient to deal with the leaky pipe right now, keep in mind how much money you could be losing by letting it continue on.
As soon as you notice issues like stains on walls from water damage or still water in the basement, call a plumber to resolve the issue. Don’t wait.
Do you have questions about leaky pipes? Found a broken pipe and need repairs? Need more advice on what to do? Call our team to learn more or schedule an appointment.
Nothing is more concerning than when a household appliance is not working properly, especially when you have a heap of other responsibilities to tackle. One example is a malfunctioning dishwasher. Since dishwashers are connected to the kitchen sink, and therefore, the plumbing system, it can be affected by problems both within the water line and drainage, as well as be the cause of many problems.
If your dishwasher is misbehaving, you need to figure out the cause sooner than later. Any plumbing issues underlying the problems could wind up causing a lot of damage if disregarded for too long.
Here are some early warning signs that a dishwasher is clogged and in need of repairs:
Gurgling
Dishwashers make noise, but if you hear an unusual gurgling, bubbling, rumbling, or squealing, it should cause concern. Usually, these noises are caused when there is a clog in the waterline, pressure is building, and the water is attempting to escape past the roadblock. Since clogs occur in both main sewer lines and secondary water lines, you will need a plumber to diagnose the problem and help provide a solution.
Slow Draining
Whenever your dishwasher or kitchen sink drains slowly, it is a sign that there is a clog in the sewer line connected to the kitchen. You will want to seek assistance as soon as you can, because this can lead to clogs in the dishwasher itself, which is far more costly to repair.
Leftover Water
Has water pooled in the bottom of the dishwasher? Water resting on the bottom is a sign that the dishwasher is not draining correctly. If you have a troubleshooting guide with the dishwasher, you may be able to get an answer. Otherwise, it is best to contact a plumber, since they can figure out what is wrong.
Backed Up Water
When you run the dishwasher, do you notice any water leaking out into the kitchen sink, such as coming up through the drain? Water backup is dangerous, since it can lead to flooding. Act immediately. Shut off the dishwasher and, if you have one, run the garbage disposal. Make sure there is no food or other debris trapped within the kitchen’s drain line. If the backup continues, you will need to contact a plumber immediately.
Uncleaned Dishes and Cups
Similar to gurgling, if you run the dishwasher but the dishes are not cleaned by the end of the cycle, it proves that not enough water was coming through the lines. This indicates a potential clog in either the main or secondary lines leading to the appliance.
Your dishwasher needs to be functioning properly in order to not only drain correctly but to also do its job. If you find that your dishwasher is lagging, making weird sounds, or is draining incorrectly, you should hire a professional plumber to help repair the issues.