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Solar water heaters have the potential of being an ecofriendly and cost-efficient way of heating one’s household water supply. The process is simple and does just what the name implies. This type of system harnesses sunlight, turning it into heat through a device called a Solar Thermal Collector.

Direct solar water heater systems

There are several types of solar water heaters on the market. While it’s true that these water heaters can work in any climate, some do work better in warmer areas.

Open loop

One of the most common types of Solar Water Heaters is called a Direct System, also known as an “active” or “open loop”.  The process for the Active system is simple: Water is circulated from the water tank, up to the roof to the Solar Thermal Collectors. The water is then heated in the collectors and transferred down to the water tank and into the household, ready, for use. This type of system is best for tropical climates, as it doesn’t require assistance in heating one’s water.

Closed loop

The most common Solar Water Heater, in the Direct System, is the Indirect or “closed-loop” system. These work best in climates where temperatures drop below freezing. This system uses a combination of sunlight and antifreeze to heat the water. Antifreeze is circulated from the water heater up to the Solar Thermal Collectors, heated, and then moved down into the heat exchanger, heating the water in the tank, indirectly. The cooler antifreeze is then pushed back up to the collectors where the process begins again.

Common Problems with Solar Water Heaters

Leaking

Probably the most common problem with a Solar Water Heater is leaking. The most plausible explanation for this is a leaky temperature and pressure relief valve on the solar heater. Do not try to repair this problem on your own. It’s better to call and have a technician come out and replace it. Another reason leaks can occur is because the piping in the solar panel has burst. This may be due to either freezing weather conditions or simply too much pressure in the pipes. It is best to call a technician to come and assess this problem as well. The problem could also be that the pipe fittings just need to be tightened.

Not enough hot water

The second most common problem is not having enough hot water. To address this issue you can do a couple of things.

Make sure the solar panel is in the correct placement on the roof, i.e. away from tree shading, facing south with the recommended tilt. Also consider if the solar panel size is correct for the household size. The amount of hot water that you use will help determine the size you need. Not having enough hot water can also be caused by a leaky or stuck valve. Make sure that if there is a back up storage tank, that the thermostat is set to the right temperature. Be mindful in the winter months that the solar panel is given an adequate slope, so the output end is higher. There could also be a system blockage. If so, all you need to do is flush the system until the flow is no longer blocked. The most important thing you can do is make sure that the solar panels are properly insulated.

No hot water

Finally, the third most often reported problem is no hot water at all. To avoid this problem, it is best to be preemptive. Make sure to maintain the absorber paint on the collector panels. If this paint deteriorates, it can cause the system to be less efficient. Make sure that the paint is both heat and UV exposure resistant. Also make sure to provide a small weep hole on the bottom of the collectors. When there is a lot of condensation inside the panels, the excess needs to be expelled so as not to affect the performance of the system.

Conclusion

Despite their drawbacks, Solar Water Heaters are a great option for alternative-energy conscious homeowners. If you are looking to save money, we’ve got everything you need to get you started on this eco-friendly alternative energy option for your home. Give us a call today!

The post Solar Water Heaters appeared first on Knoxville Plumbing | Plumber in Knoxville | Plumbing | Tennessee.

Tired of the steady drip, drip, drip of your leaky faucet? Whether those water droplets fall at a regular pace, or until you’re able to locate the “sweet spot” on the handle that stops the drop, a leaky faucet is one of a homeowner’s most annoying problems. The first question is which solution is more cost-effective: repair or replacement? The second question – regardless of the answer to the first – is DIY or hire a plumber? Because we at Adams and Son Plumbing believe that knowledge is power, we offer this guide.

 

How long do faucets last?

Generally, good-quality faucets can last for about 10 years.

But the life of a faucet depends on several factors:

• Frequency of use

• Make and model

• Water hardness

• Proper installation

• Maintenance

If the offending faucet is at or near the 10-year mark, replacement may be more cost-effective than repair – unless it’s a high-end designer faucet, which could cost well over $1,000 to replace. As many homeowners have learned from experience, however, a fancy European brand and high price tag doesn’t always mean a superior product. In such a case, it’s probably better to cut your losses and replace the temperamental tap with a tried-and-true brand.

Ignoring the drip isn’t an option. Our April 2018 blog post, “Got a Plumbergency?” cautions that a neglected faucet leak can lead to very costly repairs. In addition, leaky faucets can waste thousands of gallons of water over time, and result in higher water bills.

 

There are three main types of faucets:

• Cartridge faucets – These generally use an up/down motion to regulate water flow and control temperature with a left/right motion.
• Compression faucets – This type features two knobs or levers – one each for hot and cold.
• Ball-type faucets – These have a knob directly above the spout that controls water flow and temperature, depending upon the direction it’s twisted.

 

Should I do it myself, or hire a pro?

The next question is should you tackle repair or replacement yourself, or hire a professional plumber? There are numerous websites and YouTube videos providing step-by-step instructions for either type of project. But as easy as they try to make the process seem, taking the DIY route isn’t advisable unless you have hands-on experience with plumbing. Even then, your DIY experience with a cartridge or ball-type faucet may not transfer to compression faucets.

Also consider unanticipated problems you may encounter that could result in damage or a more extensive repair that you’d expected. Removing an existing faucet may expose corroded pipes or other components that require replacement.

 

DIY repair and new faucet installation

Again, many tutorials are available online from reputable sources, such as home improvement stores. If you have intermediate repair skills and feel comfortable, a repair can be done in a half-hour to an hour, depending upon the type of faucet.

Replacement is, of course, a more complex and time-consuming project. Basic tools and supplies required are a basin wrench, adjustable wrenches and bucket. Lowes provides step-by-step instructions and a video. Not all faucets come preassembled, so be sure you have the know-how necessary to install your faucet.

 

Faucet repair and installation by a plumber

While the cost of professional installation varies, online research can provide the suggested retail price of specific faucet brands and models. If you want a basic, quality faucet, a plumber can provide and install it for one price. Should you buy the faucet yourself, make sure it will fit your sink and is compatible with your home’s plumbing.

A plumber also has the experience and proper equipment to replace supply lines and repair related problems that you may not have noticed, or were hidden until the old faucet was removed. Hiring a professional can save time and money by ensuring the job is done right.

Our colleagues at MillTown provide solid reasons why you should hire a pro, which include:

• Helping you select the best quality products for your home.
• Installing your fixtures quickly and cost-effectively.
• Performing all work in compliance will local municipal codes.
• Ensuring all connections are safe.

Whether you’re a proud Central Florida homeowner or business owner, Adams and Son Plumbing can keep your plumbing working dependably. We are a family-owned business with over 50 years in plumbing service. A state-certified plumbing contractor, we have over three generations of master plumbing experience.

Contact us to learn more.

 

The post Should You Repair or Replace Your Faucet? appeared first on Adams and Son Plumbing Services.

Tankless or demand-type water heaters are a type of water heater that only heats up water when one needs it. They are a more cost-efficient way of heating water because they don’t waste as much energy on heating a whole storage water tank. They are also referred to as instantaneous water heaters.

How do they work?

 

The way these water heaters are designed is quite ingenious. The hot water is turned on at the tap, and cold water is propelled though the pipeline into the unit. Once this happens, either an electric unit or a gas burner heats the water. This type of system practically insures that one will always have hot water available. It will produce about 2-5 gallons of hot water per minute. Keep in mind that a gas-burning water heater will yield larger quantities of flow rates than an electric-powered water heater. The beauty of this is that the demand-type water heater will do all of this without needing a hot water heating tank, saving space, money, and energy in the process.

While the tankless water heater itself is more expensive than the typical storage water heater, it will usually last longer. Tankless water heaters also cost less to operate, and as mentioned before, save energy. All that counters the initial purchase price. In addition, the storage water heater only lasts about 10-15 years, whereas a tankless water heater will last up to 20. It is also easy to keep up with the maintenance of a tankless water heater because its parts are so easy to come by and usually cheap.

What are some common problems with tankless water heaters?

Running out of hot water

One of the most common problems with a tankless or demand-type water heater is that it runs out of hot water too quickly. There are several variables that one must consider when dealing with this problem. One reason this could be happening is that tankless water heaters cannot supply enough hot water when the hot water is being used for multiple things at the same time. For example, if one household is using the dishwasher, the laundry machine, and the shower all at the same time, this will drastically impede the water heater’s ability to supply hot water to all three places. A simple but slightly pricey solution to this problem is to install an additional tankless water heater next to the original to help spread the hot water throughout the household. Another possibility is to install appliance-specific water heaters onto the appliances.

Mineral build-up

Mineral build-up can be another culprit. Hard water can be damaging and counter-productive for any water heater. Be sure to flush the tankless water heater about every six months or so to insure optimal usage. Consider a water softener to help keep the mineral build-up to a minimum.

Failure to ignite

Failure to ignite is a frustrating problem. This is often caused by blockage of the air supply or exhaust. Many tankless water heaters will have a display with an error code to tell that there is an air supply or exhaust problem. The demand-type water heater is most likely struggling with venting or combustion air. Make sure all the vents are clear. Look out for small animals, birds or even wasps. These creatures like to make their homes in or around the outside vents.

Flame failure

Flame failure is another common problem. This typically occurs from an electrical or gas pressure issue. Make sure that it is not because of an overdue gas bill or empty propane tank before calling professionals.

Sound good?

Give us a call if it’s time to change the way your house heats water! We have professionals standing by to help with the next chapter in your home improvement journey.

The post Demand-Type or Tankless Water Heaters appeared first on Knoxville Plumbing | Plumber in Knoxville | Plumbing | Tennessee.

You whipped up dinner and threw the scraps into your kitchen sink without giving it a second thought, for the garbage disposal to do its job. We’ve all done this numerous times.

Such little lapses could eventually cause big-time damage. It’s true, that garbage disposals were invented with the aim of creating a fast and easy way to dispose of trash and clean up your kitchen.

However, disposals have limits on what they can dispose of and what they can’t. In regards to your garbage disposal, adopting good disposal habits and prevention are best practices.

With the United States producing 624,700 metric tons of waste daily, garbage disposals have become a necessity in most homes to manage waste but when damaged they can be very expensive to fix.

So how do you know what not to drop into your garbage disposal in order to prevent damage?

That’s what you’ll learn in this article, knowing this will save you tons of cash in repairs. So let’s look at 16 things you should never throw into your garbage disposal.

1. Coffee Grounds

Most likely you’ve heard about how coffee grounds help to clean your garbage disposal and eliminate odors; however, putting coffee grounds in your garbage disposal is a big no-no and should be avoided.

If you want to clean your garbage disposal you can try using lemon and ice.

Even though it’s quite tempting to toss the coffee grounds into your drain, as it seems like a quick solution, it will cause a very costly backup.

2. Egg Shells

After whipping up your bacon and eggs breakfast, you can easily form the habit of throwing the eggshells into the garbage disposal.

The eggshells may seem brittle and harmless, but after you throw them down the drain, your garbage disposal grinds it up into tiny pieces and it ends up sticking to other oily and fatty substances which creates a huge clog.

Asides from this, the inner membrane of the eggshells gets stuck in the garbage disposal blades which makes it dull in grinding up waste.

3. Fat and Oils

Fats and oil account for over 47% of all sewer overflow in the United States yearly, this shows that it’s a major problem for your garbage disposal and must be actively prevented.

As a matter of fact, these two substances spell woe for your garbage disposal.

They act as adhesives for all other substances thrown into your drain and create sticky, thick globs in your pipe which stops every other thing from passing through.

4. Pasta and Rice

Dropping cooked rice and pasta into your garbage disposal can cause a plumbing nightmare. This is because they are foods that expand in water, and will increase in size when in the disposal.

Also, the garbage disposal grinds the pasta and rice making a nasty thick paste which will cause your garbage disposal to stop functioning or block your drain.

5. Bones and Other Solids

Source: YouTube

You shouldn’t send solid substances down your garbage disposal, it may be strong but it’s certainly not strong enough to break bones and other types of solid wastes.

They will get stuck in your pipes and sink and, jam your disposal as well as cause numerous other issues. Rather, put them in the bin or compost them.

Also, seed pits should never be put in the garbage disposal, because of how thick they are.

6. Celery

While some veggies can slide down your garbage disposal with no issues at all, celery can cause it to back up with heavy problems.

This happens as a result of the long fibers it possesses which tie up the glides of your garbage disposal

7. Paper Towels

Even though paper towels are biodegradable, they won’t dissolve instantly because they are made to be absorbent, so they’ll end up restricting the blades of your disposal.

8. Cotton Balls

As soft as cotton balls are, if you dump a bunch of them in your garbage disposal, you’ll end up restricting the blades from moving.

9. Oatmeal

Oatmeal especially when uncooked can easily slip through the disposal without being cut. Oatmeal generally swells or expands when it makes its way through the disposal.

In some occasions, the oatmeal may flow out of the garbage into the sewer but if it doesn’t flow out and it gathers in the down line and you will have to clean out the drain and this can be very discomforting.

So if you do not want to constantly do some plumbing work on your garbage disposal, try not to let oatmeal get into it.

10. Nuts

No matter how tempting it looks don’t ever succumb to the temptation of dumping nuts into your drainage. Nuts are hard to get rid of and peanuts are not exempted.

It may look as if they glide easily into the garbage disposal but the issue is not getting them into the garbage disposal it is getting them out of the garbage disposal.

If peanuts and peanut butter get into your garbage disposal, the drain will get clogged and the process of unclogging is quite messy and tiring.

11. Onion Skins

If big chunks or diced onions are dumped into the garbage disposal, it doesn’t really cause any problem, but where the problem lies is if the thin membrane which comes after the dry outer layer gets stuck in the garbage disposal.

This inner layer is not just thin; it is also very slippery and can easily pass into the garbage disposal without your notice.

The thinness makes it easy for it to miss being cut by the blades of the garbage disposal and they it gets wound around the drain.

Once it gets wound in the drain it begins to catch more items that should pass through the drain and before you know it the drain will become blocked.

You can, however, avoid this annoying scenario by dropping the thin layer in the trash and then cut it up into tiny pieces before throwing the tiny pieces into the garbage disposal.

12. Trash

Trash like plastic bags, paper towels, candy wrappers, banana peels, shouldn’t be put into the garbage disposal.

What you could do is put materials like this into the recycle bin or look for alternative ways of disposing of them.

13. Fruit Pits

Some fruits have very hard and dense pits in their center and despite the fact that other parts of the fruit can be put into the garbage disposal, the pits shouldn’t be put into it to avoid running into problems.

Have you ever tried to cut through the pit of a peach fruit?

The answer is most likely no. If you are not able to cut it open with a knife then the garbage disposal will most likely not be able to grind it up either.

When hard items are dropped into the garbage disposal, the machine will begin to malfunction and will have difficulty properly disposing of waste.

Save yourself the stress by dumping your fruit pits into somewhere else order than the garbage disposal.

14. Cleaning Chemicals

Avoid pouring harsh cleaning chemicals such as industrial grade cleaners and drain busters into the garbage disposal.

Regular cleaning agents like dish soap are not capable of causing any harm but harsh chemicals can cause damage to both your garbage disposal and your drain line.

You may think that putting these chemicals will help to clean the blade of the garbage disposal but all they will end up doing is causing wear to it.

If you want to clean the blades of the garbage disposal you can use ice cube of dish soap to clean out any buildup of dirt or grease and if it is clogged, you can seek for alternative ways of unclogging it without using harsh chemicals.

15. Paint

When you pour paint (oil or latex) into your garbage disposal, the paint won’t go directly into the drain, it will cling to the sides of the disposal and also the pipes and then begin to get hard and clog the drainage.

You can pour heavily diluted paint into the disposal without running into any problem but once the paint is concentrated, don’t pour it into the disposal directly.

16. Wet wipes

Wet wipes are an absolute no for your garbage disposal. They create knots which prevent the disposal from functioning optimally and ultimately damage it.

Conclusion

While having garbage disposal makes getting rid of unwanted waste quicker, if you do not know the do’s and don’ts of using one, you may end up spending a fortune in fixing it.

However, following the above list, you can save a lot of cash by avoiding unnecessary repairs.

This post first appeared on https://blog.antaplumbing.com

Whether your water heater broke or your family is growing, you might just need a new water heater. Choosing a new one doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Just follow these tips, and this will be one of the easiest things you’ve done!

Research How Water Heaters Work

There are a lot of different kinds of water heaters. They range from tank to tankless and can be powered by gas, electricity, oil, solar or heat pump.

The two most common tank water heaters run on gas or electricity.

Electric water heaters use coils that go down into the tank to heat your water. This type is ideal for a smaller household that doesn’t require much hot water. Although electric water heaters might be cheaper to purchase, they’re not as efficient as gas heaters in the long run. They also tend to be more expensive over time.

Gas heaters, be it natural gas or propane, are another common water heater choice. They use a gas burner that is vented through a chimney or small wall vent. Propane gas heaters are used when natural gas is not accessible. Propane tends to be cheaper than natural gas.

Above are great examples of tank water heaters, but there is another option: a tankless water heater.

Also known as the “on demand” water heater, it only turns on when you need hot water. There is no holding tank, which makes this a more efficient option. However, like the electric water heater, this also makes it a more expensive option.

You also need to consider the lifetime expectancy of the heater you choose. Where a tank water heater can hold from 40 to 60 gallons of hot water and last up to 13 years, a tankless heater can last up to 20 years.

Taking all this into consideration, it ultimately comes to what is most suitable for you and your household.

Size and Storage Of Water Heaters

You must factor size and storage into your search for a new water heater. To help with this, think back to how satisfied you were with how your old one worked. Some things to consider: Did you had enough hot water? How long did you have to wait for it to reheat?

If the old water heater didn’t provide enough hot water, you might want to upgrade the size of the new water heater.

For a storage tank water heater, a very important factor to consider is the amount of water that can be held and the recovery rate, which is basically the amount of water that can be heated in an hour. An energy sticker on the new water heater will display the recovery rate as First Hour Rating (FHR).

For example, a four-person household would require a 40- to 50-gallon water tank, whereas a two-person household could skate by with a 30- to 40-gallon tank.

Gas heaters have a better FHR than electric water heaters, which means they have a smaller tank with the same EF rating.

Now What?

Choosing your new water heater doesn’t have to be a headache. Just remember: do your research on types, sizes and storage options.

If you get stuck, give us a call. Here at Knoxville Plumbing, we have experts who can help you evaluate what your family needs and match these up with the heater that will work best for you and your household.

The post Choosing a New Water Heater appeared first on Knoxville Plumbing | Plumber in Knoxville | Plumbing | Tennessee.

One of the advantages of living in Florida in general – and Central Florida in particular – is that the increasingly harsh winter weather making news this season is absent in the Sunshine State. While Northern and Midwestern states dig out from massive amounts of snow and sleet, we nevertheless complain bitterly when the thermometer dips to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

So if you’re a snowbird lucky enough to have a winter home here, or permanently relocated to escape the Arctic freezes, you may be wondering if your septic tank needs special attention this time of year.

Fortunately, the short answer is “no.”

However, certain times of year and certain weather conditions in Florida demand more vigilance on the part of homeowners who have a septic system. But back to that short “no.” What Florida lacks in snow and ice, it more than makes up for in winter visitors – many of who may be your houseguests. As your home is their vacation headquarters, they’re stressing your septic system with additional use. Since their home’s plumbing is most likely connected to a municipal sewer system, they may not know the special care a septic system requires.

Our colleagues at ADB Construct & Septic Corp. of Manchester, CT, wrote about the hazards that holiday guests pose to a septic system in their own blog. 

 

Here’s their observation, because, frankly, we couldn’t say it better ourselves:

“Having guests over during the holiday season can cause damage to your septic system. Your system can become overworked with an increase in showers and laundry usage.

The preparation of elaborate holiday meals can contribute to an overworked system as well. Additionally, guests who are unfamiliar with septic systems might flush unauthorized items down the toilet, leading to damage of your system.

“In order to avoid these issues, stagger showers and laundry usage, rather than using a large amount of water all at once. Stagger your food preparation over a few days if possible. Additionally, you should remind guests what items can and can’t be flushed down your toilet.”

 

As we always say around here at Adams and Son Plumbing, no matter if your home is on a septic or sewer system, only three things should be flushed down the toilet – one them being toilet paper. That means no baby wipes, tissues, paper towels or feminine hygiene products. Ever.

 

Now, back to the weather and your septic tank

Anyone who has called themselves a Floridian for any length of time knows that summer is the danger season for septic tanks. To understand why, it helps to know how a septic system is constructed and how it operates. 

As outlined by Nix Tank Company of Gainesville, GA, a septic system consists of three primary units:

• Inlet pipe: Waste from all of the drains in your house run through this pipe into the septic tank.
• Tank: An underground two-chamber tank holds the waste as it separates into sludge, scum and effluent (liquid).
• Drain field: A perforated pipe releases effluent into the soil for further biodegradation. Solid is routinely pumped by specialists.

The solid waste settles at the bottom of the tank and becomes sludge as microbes break the material down. Grease and lighter solids float to the top. On a non-rainy day, the liquid material, also called effluent, flows from the drain field into the soil and is purified by microbes.

Heavy rain results in excessive water in the soil. This limits the drain field’s ability to release effluents into the soil and leads to dangerous levels of liquid filling up in the tank. Day after day of heavy, sustained rain – as we experience in Florida during a typical summer – can saturate the drain field and overwhelm the septic tank, causing water to back up in toilets and drains. Add an active hurricane season to the mix, and disaster looms.

Save water to save your septic system

The best course of action during rain/hurricane season is to go into holiday houseguest mode. Schedule laundry to avoid washing more than one load a day. Give the dishwasher a break and wash by hand in the sink, running the water only to rinse. Shower, rather than bathe, and keep it brief. Turn off the faucet while brushing your teeth and performing other personal grooming. If you have a swimming pool, don’t allow it to drain into your septic system.

Of course, call us if you suspect a leak anywhere in your house or on your property, as leaks also add to the demand on a septic tank – in addition to the other damage they cause. Our June 2018 blog post, “How to Detect Plumbing Leaks” provides valuable tips on locating leaks before they cause extensive destruction. Our July 2018 blog post, “Septic Tank Maintenance – What You Need to Know,” offers additional water-saving advice, as well as steps to keep your septic system trouble-free.

No matter what the season – rain or shine – Adams and Son Plumbing has been providing experienced, expert septic system service to Central Florida residences for 40 years.

Contact us to schedule an appointment.

The post How Weather Affects Septic Tanks in Florida appeared first on Adams and Son Plumbing Services.

Your home may have cast iron piping that is corroded and outdated, especially if you live in a building that was built before 2000. Take a look at the plumbing if you’re having trouble, because any home older than twenty or thirty years will definitely need to have their old cast iron piping replaced. Here is everything you need to know and how you can tell it is time for new piping.

Signs Your Cast Iron Piping Needs Updating

Sometimes, depending on the condition, you might not need to swap out your cast iron piping for PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) or other options. After all, cast iron piping can last for up to 80-100 years, depending on the water. Always have a professional plumber inspect the home before making your decision. A professional plumber can give you definite information about the piping’s performance.

Here are some things to keep an eye out for:

1. Leaks

One of the most frequent signs that cast iron piping needs updating would be leaks, because this happens when the pipes have been damaged or corroded.

2. Discoloration

When running your water, do you occasionally see brown or yellow colored water? If you live in a suburban or urban area, discolored water is often a sign of corrosion, rust, and vulnerability. If you see discoloration, you need replacement pipes.

3. Slow draining

If you often experience slow draining or backups, it may be indicating a problem with the cast iron pipes. Don’t use any cleaning products that contains sulfuric acid, as this can damage the pipes and make matters worse.

4. Odor

If you smell sewer gas or other noxious fumes, don’t rule out a crack in the cast iron pipes. Call a plumber to have them investigate.

5. Mold

Cracked and corroded cast iron piping creates the perfect environment for mold to grow in the basement.

6. Puddles

Finding puddles is most definitely a sign of corroded pipes. 99% of time, the leak is stemming right from the pipe it is under.

7. Cracks

While cracks may certainly form in the pipes, cracks in the foundation of your home may also be a sign of an undetected plumbing problem. Spotting cracks around the base of your residence, along with other signs of piping problems, shouldn’t be ignored.

Replacing Cast Iron Piping

Whether you are looking to modernize your home with new cast iron or want to swap to PVC, replacing old cast iron plumbing is actually quite simple. Have a professional plumber either add new branches and section as needed or use stainless steel no-hub clamps that help form leak-proof connections between cast iron piping and PVC ones. Unless you spot a problem, like corrosion, there’s no need for a complete overhaul.

If you have spotted signs of corroded cast iron piping in your home, you shouldn’t wait to replace the worn down pieces immediately. Cast iron piping is built to last a lifetime, but sometimes it can erode and age rapidly depending on the conditions of the soil and the water running through. Be sure to have your pipes inspected regularly to tackle any issues before they become a much larger problem.

The post Replacing Old Cast Iron Piping appeared first on The Irish Plumber.

Whether there’s a soft whistling or an ear-piercing shriek coming from the toilet as it refills, the sound can certainly cause alarm. Indeed, the sound means that there’s a problem that needs repair. Here’s the reason why the toilet whistles after flushing and how to correct it:

 

The Cause of the Whistling Toilet

The toilet whistling is associated with the toilet fill valve. The fill valve has a float that rises and falls with the water level, regulating the water entering the tank after a flush. When the float drops low, the valve opens to let the tank refill. Once the water reaches the ideal level, the valve shuts tightly, preventing water from overflowing the tank.

 

However, as fill valves age, the bits and pieces holding it together will start to deteriorate, resulting in the whistling or hissing sound. If the toilet has a metal ballcock valve, the vibrates caused by wear and tear or a faulty gasket can also be to blame. Whistling is usually the beginning of the problem. The louder the noise gets, the closer the fill valve is getting to complete failure.

 

When that happens, you might have a flood to contend with.

 

How to Fix a Whistling Toilet

Fixing the noisy problem can be done by either replacing the gasket in the fill value or replacing the whole valve. Since most modern valves are made out of plastic, replacement doesn’t come with an outrageous price tag. Installation, too, is simple—unscrew the valve from the tank, replace it with the new one, and ta-da, the problem is solved!

 

Don’t Ignore the Problem

You might have put off repairing the whistling toilet, but you shouldn’t. The noise is annoying enough, but if the fill valve isn’t fixed, you’ll be using more water than necessary. In short, you’ll suffer from higher utility bills.

 

Now that you know why the toilet whistles after flushing, you can fix the problem. Because replacing a whistling fill valve isn’t particularly difficult, it is one of the jobs you can do without relying on a professional plumber. However, like all matters of plumbing, if you’re unsure about how to repair or replace the gasket, it is best to call a trustworthy plumber to help.

 

The post Why Does The Toilet Whistle After Flushing? appeared first on The Irish Plumber.